Re-Bed?

P

Propdoc03

Guest
So I have a new barrel installed from the maker that is supposed to be exactly the same as the one they replaced. I had given them a heads up in hopes that I would not have to re-do my brand new bedding job. However, I do have my doubts. Is there any easy way to test to see if it needs a skim coat or not? I thought I had read some time back about using a dial indicator and tightening down the screws in a certain sequence?

thanks,
Dennis
 
With both screws snug... set a dial indicator to measure movement between the barrel and the stock up at the forend... then loosen one screw... check how much movement there is... then tighten it back up and loosen the other screw... measure the movement...

... if the movement is 2 thou or more with either screw I would skim bed it...
 
Propdoc,


WHY would the barrel have any affect on the bedding??? Unless you've got the barrel bedded too......... in which case it WILL NOT match the old bedding job. No two barrels are similar enough to match to that extent. Ten identical barrels from the same maker are not identical enough to fit into the same bedding.


Just clear the bedding out of the barrel channel.


al
 
Re-bed?

The dial indicator bedding check assumes a free floated barrel. The pressure bedded setups like the stock Rem 700 won't show anything meaningful with this check.

I use a back plunger dial indicator with a c-clamp style setup. I place a wrap of masking tape around the barrel to protect the finish and have the indicator contacting the bottom of the forend. Stand the rifle vertically on the butt pad and squeeze the barrel and forend together to check freedom of movement on your setup. You should be able to see a fairly large deflection on a properly floated barrel. Then alternately loosen and tighten the guard screws and observe the dial movement. I did two pillar bedding jobs last week on McMillan stocks, one a Savage Target action varminter and the other a 1000 yard Nesika using Marintex on both. Both checked at about 1/2 thou movement When using only two of the three guard screw to hold them in the stock. Three guard screws can mask a poor bedding job. The secret to good bedding is stress free and an even coat on your setup. If you have stress in the setup or varying thickness of epoxy, you'll probably need a paint coat to get your less than .002" movement. Try to shoot for under .001" movement.
 
Thanks Guys. The barrel is bedded a couple of inches in front of the action and I am with Al, I just dont think two barrels can be machined exactly the same. I pillar bedded it with Devcon, bolted the pillars to the action and set it so the tops are bare. I really dont care to skim coat over the pillars. Would I be safe to relieve the bedding under the barrel and only re-bed that portion?

Quite some time back, 12 years or so ago I read an article on bedding and putting the rifle upside down and adding some weight to the end of the barrel until it cures. Is this something I may want to consider?

Dennis
 
Dennis, I would simply relieve the bedding under the barrel...........leave it out.

The thing about turning over and hanging a weight off of the barrel is for producing a pressure point..........alternatively (and better IMO) you leave the rifle right-side-up and hang a weight off the front sling swivel stud to flex the stock. In either case the pressure point system is only applicable for hunting rifles with skinny barrels, again IMO :)


al
 
I am with Al, unless the rifle simply doesn't shoot that way relieve the barrel bedding and do not rebed it at all.

One note. I had Kelbly's pillar bad my Stolle 6PPC when they built it for me. They installed the pillars and then bedded right over the top of them. I have since read that avoiding metal pillar to metal action contact will help dampen vibrations. Makes sense and it works well on my rifle. Incidentally they used three action screws, front, middle and back.

Bryce
 
Propdoc03 said:
Thanks Guys. The barrel is bedded a couple of inches in front of the action and I am with Al, I just dont think two barrels can be machined exactly the same. I pillar bedded it with Devcon, bolted the pillars to the action and set it so the tops are bare. I really dont care to skim coat over the pillars. Would I be safe to relieve the bedding under the barrel and only re-bed that portion?

Quite some time back, 12 years or so ago I read an article on bedding and putting the rifle upside down and adding some weight to the end of the barrel until it cures. Is this something I may want to consider?

Dennis
Click to expand...

You can definitely relieve the bedding under the barrel and only re-bed that portion with no problems...

You can also skim bed on top of pillars with no problems... I always do that last...

You can also just remove the bedding under the barrel with no problems... leave the whole barrel floating...
 
Dennis Sorensen said:
1. You can definitely relieve the bedding under the barrel and only re-bed that portion with no problems...

2. You can also skim bed on top of pillars with no problems... I always do that last...

3. You can also just remove the bedding under the barrel with no problems... leave the whole barrel floating...
Click to expand...

Dennis,

Would you do the third alternative first?
 
Fists, Shoot It

Before I did ANYTHING I'd shoot 'er! Everything else is theoretical. If it shoots to your standards as is I wouldn't change a thing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top