Questions, First Bedding Job Savage model 111 with wood stock

C

cpeters

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I wanted to try my hand at bedding my hunting rifles rifles before I try a BR rifle which I have alway had done professionally.

It is a Savage model 111 in 270 with the blind magazine and wood stock with factory pillars.

I have been doing alot of reading and have the fine article on savageshooters.com (bedding a savage 101).

I have everyting I need and will be using Devcon. I posted this on the savage shooters forum and figured I'd see what you guys have to say.

Here is my concern.

1. The rear pillar is notched for the bolt release mechanism. I saw a post online where a guy ground a notch in the mechanism so he could put in a full pillar. I was told on savage shooters forum not to do that because the bolt release mechanism WILL crack if you do that.

2. My biggest concern is that the L bracket that hold the internal clip in place actually rests on top of the back pillar and the action then sits on top of that. I was told to tape the L bracket in place, put release agent on the bracket....bed over it then cut that back out after bedding. (Obviously the pillar on the back is shorter than the front by the thickness of the L bracket)

This is a hunting rifle but I am just wondering those of you that may have experience with bedding this rifle what you would do.

My first instinct was to remove the rear pillar, put in a full pillar, notch the bolt release mechanism, cut the L bracket so it does not sit on top of the pillar and figure out another way to attach the L-bracket.

Any thoughts?

Charlie
 
Charlie

I have quite a few Savages, but only 1 with the new center feed mag. I ran into the same problem you are describing. I beat my brains out trying to figure out the best way to bed that monsrosity that someone designed and in my opinion, screwed up a previous good product. Anyway, what I did was cleaned the surfaces with alcohol and bedded right over that stupid magazine retaining clip. I also bedded the rear of the action that almost everyone will tell you has to be free floating.......BS in my opinion. My way of thinking is more support equals more rigidity. At the rear of the action where the bedding squeezed out by the tang, I used plastic wrap to cover the bedding to mold the outside shape of the stock and fill in that radius cutout. Mind you, this was a plastic stock--not a wood one. So after that I could sand that profile to match the outside of the stock. You may not want to do this as it may require refinishing of your wood stock but I would definately bed the tang area. I never plan on removing the magazine from the stock and if I have to for some reason in the future, I'll just cut the bedding away from that area. To make a long story short .........It Shoots Just Fine!
 
I just finished bedding a Savage 110 and run into the same situation. I wound up milling off the back portion of the rear pillar to allow clearance for the sear mechanism. I made steel pillars since I thought an aluminum might be a little weak. It only gives you a single portion of metal for the pillar to touch the barrel in the rear but it's supported by a lot of Devcon around it. So far I'm pleased with it. I left the tang unbedded and used a little tape under the tang and some more around the barrel to establish my bedding position. It looks nice and you can't really see that the tang is floated. I thought about bedding the tang also but had read several times to leave it free and that was also less of a hassle in filling all of the rear inletting with clay.
 
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Well I did it.

Well I Did it last night.

Will pull the barrelled action and see how it turned out tonight.

Here is what I did with the rear pillar and magazine hold down clip.

1. I didn't like the way the hold down clip just seemed to have contacs with just its tips of the fork on top of the pillar. So I was thinking if it was longer it would enguage more onto the pillar....so I cut it off just before it makes the transition down to the magazine, placed the upper half for full enguagement to the pillar and action screw and bedded over it.

I also ground out the wood around the pillars about 1/8 of an inch or so.

I realized after I got all of the modeling clay in that I had not drilled holes into the wood for the bedding compound to flow into and then didn't want to get sawdust in my clay so I figured since I used a dremel tool to remove quite a bit of wood and it is pretty irrigular with little ditches and things in the wood the devcon should be attached to the wood pretty darn well. Agree?

Regarding the magazine, I may just hot glue it in place.

Thanks for your help and advice.

Charlie
 
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