Question for woodworkers...
- Thread starter Wilbur
- Start date
Boyd Allen
Active member
A router table will make the process easier to control. Setup and bit selection are key. Also direction of feed matters, and there are other tricks. You can build a simple table, pair it with an inexpensive router (for a very light cut), and leave it set up for the one task. Router dust is fine, and can hang in the air for a long time, so hooking it up to a vacuum, can be a good idea, as well as a paper mask. Generally, when working in an enclosed space, once I start to cut, the mask goes on until I leave the space for the day. Assume that the dust will end up on everything when considering where to do your work.
Boyd - I'll try to remember to call you tomorrow. I answered when you called today but my phone had just enough juice in it to ring it seems. I thought it was broken again but unfortunately it wasn't. Come to find out, you have to plug those things in now and then....
Bill Wynne
Active member
Wilbur,
I could show you all I know about using a router in a few minutes but the skill required in using a router is hard to transfer by writing.
Suggestions:
Use a sharp bit with a ball bearing for best results.
Keep the router moving to advoid burning.
If the work piece is too small to hold down securely, I would advise a router table.
If I had one, I would use a router table.
Use a piece of wood of similar size and shape for practice.
If you are just breaking the edges for feel, I would use sand paper.
If you use the router outside you will save a lot of saw dust.
My cell number is 325-277-3338
I hope this helps.
I could show you all I know about using a router in a few minutes but the skill required in using a router is hard to transfer by writing.
Suggestions:
Use a sharp bit with a ball bearing for best results.
Keep the router moving to advoid burning.
If the work piece is too small to hold down securely, I would advise a router table.
If I had one, I would use a router table.
Use a piece of wood of similar size and shape for practice.
If you are just breaking the edges for feel, I would use sand paper.
If you use the router outside you will save a lot of saw dust.
My cell number is 325-277-3338
I hope this helps.
F
fishbone
Guest
To accomplish this without a router table do this;
Get a piece of wood longer than your work piece.
Place the router base on t6he two pieces of wood that are seperated enough to allow the bit to pass between them safely.
Use a non skid mat under the wood(s).
The bearing will guide on the work piece, and the longer wood will support the base, keeping all level.
Make a lighter cut pass first, followed by a finish pass (test piece suggestion is a good one).
Make the end grain cuts first, then 'with the grain' passes.
Have fun, and keep your fingers out of the spinning thingy.
Get a piece of wood longer than your work piece.
Place the router base on t6he two pieces of wood that are seperated enough to allow the bit to pass between them safely.
Use a non skid mat under the wood(s).
The bearing will guide on the work piece, and the longer wood will support the base, keeping all level.
Make a lighter cut pass first, followed by a finish pass (test piece suggestion is a good one).
Make the end grain cuts first, then 'with the grain' passes.
Have fun, and keep your fingers out of the spinning thingy.
I think the most cost effective way to do what I need done is to simply use sandpaper. The edges don't need but just a little bit of smoothing and I think I've got time to do that. The other side of this deal is that one mistake and I'm out $100. Actually, $200 given that I would need (have to) to do another one....
Don't know exactly what happened but the reverse piece I was engraving last night, the cheaper piece, somehow got "loose" and the laser cut it in two very unusable pieces. Soon as I figure out what happened I'll try again. The new bottle of glue shipped this morning. I made a couple of IBS logos that didn't work out very well either and, in the process of figuring out why, I discovered that the glue I was using was two years past the expiration date. I don't think that's why the pieces goofed up but I bought some more glue anyway.
I am gonna buy a router table but not for this piece! It looks pretty good right now...all I would have to do is drill the screw holes and sand it a bit...but y'all know I can't stop....
Don't know exactly what happened but the reverse piece I was engraving last night, the cheaper piece, somehow got "loose" and the laser cut it in two very unusable pieces. Soon as I figure out what happened I'll try again. The new bottle of glue shipped this morning. I made a couple of IBS logos that didn't work out very well either and, in the process of figuring out why, I discovered that the glue I was using was two years past the expiration date. I don't think that's why the pieces goofed up but I bought some more glue anyway.
I am gonna buy a router table but not for this piece! It looks pretty good right now...all I would have to do is drill the screw holes and sand it a bit...but y'all know I can't stop....
Bill Wynne
Active member
Wilbur,
Use the sandpaper. Sandpaper is used in every cabinet shop everyday to break edges for a smooth feel.
Use the sandpaper. Sandpaper is used in every cabinet shop everyday to break edges for a smooth feel.
Hunter
Chasin' the Sunset
Wilbur, be careful; if the "masses" find out that you're making a trophy for that match AND that the match includes shooting railguns there may not be enough time in the day to accommodate all the relays that will be necessary.
Looking forward to seeing you there.
I'm looking forward to showing up as well...hopefully see you there! My trusty Mini Cooper is not big enough to haul much stuff but maybe I can fit in a single rifle and some loading stuff. I loaned my old Cadillac to a fellow that's down on his luck and haven't seen him or the Cadillac since. I think my loading equipment is in the trunk of the Cadillac.......
M
mks
Guest
A good enough excuse to buy a Stanley #72: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8F4DO3T4BQ
but a block plane will work nicely if you are careful to hold it at a consistent angle. The plane adds a touch of craftsmanship that can't be duplicated with sandpaper.
but a block plane will work nicely if you are careful to hold it at a consistent angle. The plane adds a touch of craftsmanship that can't be duplicated with sandpaper.
OK, I failed at the inlay deal...came really close but in the end I failed. Don't have time to try the inlay again so I sanded off the last try and just engraved the trophy. I'm certainly going to keep trying because the inlay part that worked looked pretty darn good. I think my laser is misaligned ever so slightly and over a large area it won't work. I started with a 2 inch thick board and ended up with 1.3 inches. Seven tenths are now sander dust. That might not sound like a big deal but with the equipment I have it's a major deal
The trophy I'm taking to Riverbend looks pretty good! Don't know how it will look once I get the nameplates screwed on but it looks good right now.
BTW - I broke the corners with a piece of sandpaper just slightly and that works well for this application. Thanks!!!
I'm going to throw a couple of coats of something on, maybe sand it a little bit and call it done. I'll try to remember to take a picture of it before I leave for Riverbend. Nothing special of course but the first trophy I've done....maybe the last.
The trophy I'm taking to Riverbend looks pretty good! Don't know how it will look once I get the nameplates screwed on but it looks good right now.
BTW - I broke the corners with a piece of sandpaper just slightly and that works well for this application. Thanks!!!
I'm going to throw a couple of coats of something on, maybe sand it a little bit and call it done. I'll try to remember to take a picture of it before I leave for Riverbend. Nothing special of course but the first trophy I've done....maybe the last.
Tim Singleton
Member
Yep, looking good
Bill Wynne
Active member
Wilbur, That looks great. I would love to have the engraving equipment you are using and time to learn how to use it as well as you. For now I will leave that skill to you and others who know what they are doing.
Bill - The cost is somewhere close to $3000 for a machine that is big enough/good enough and it's really exciting to deal with the Chinese folks to get one for that. Otherwise, you can get the same machine for about double the cost (a little less) from a US company that deals with the Chinese lasers. Frankly, I don't know which is the better in terms of warranty and advice. Those Chinese folks don't speak good English and when they don't want to fool with you they can't speak any at all.
A machine like mine goes for about $6000 all said and done and it's the same machine just bigger...a LOT bigger...too big. That happened when my first laser wasn't big enough to do something I wanted to do and the thought seemed to stick. Don't know what I was thinking!!! If you ever need something engraved on a full size piece of plywood...I'm your man.
A US made machine, which is a ton better, will run $30K or more for a new one.
All that said, you don't have to know much at all to use one of the darn things...
A machine like mine goes for about $6000 all said and done and it's the same machine just bigger...a LOT bigger...too big. That happened when my first laser wasn't big enough to do something I wanted to do and the thought seemed to stick. Don't know what I was thinking!!! If you ever need something engraved on a full size piece of plywood...I'm your man.
A US made machine, which is a ton better, will run $30K or more for a new one.
All that said, you don't have to know much at all to use one of the darn things...