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blagg
Guest
Any body got some good advise/pics of a PTG Bolt stop install on a 700 Remington?
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passion4shootin
Guest
PTG bolt stop install for Rem 700
Installed my first External Bolt Stop from PTG 2 days ago and came across you OP.
Hope it helps you....or maybe someone else.
Blind end Install technique.
Suggestions / tools needed:
1. 3/16 carbide 4 flute end mill approx cost $ 20-25
2. 1/16 carbide drill
3. 1/8 carbide 4 flute end mill
4. 2 mm tap
Considerations:
1. Installation of bolt stop must allow ample clearance for case ejection.
2. Bolt must travel rearward far enough to allow feeding from magazine.
3. Must be easily accessible .... may require stock alteration.
Pitfalls:
1. Proper clearance at the back of the bolt stop when it is depressed.
2. Before removing the receiver from the milling machine make sure you are
DONE with all the slot work cutting. Once the receiver is removed it is next
to impossible to remount it exactly the same way in front to back, left to right, and rotation around the axis.
3. Know the thickness of the receiver and the depth of the slot you need to cut. One technique I
used, while cutting the slot at about 3/4 of the desired depth, I did a plunging cut through the receiver for
the bolt stop lug. Examination of the hole thru and thru will show you how much wall there is left before you
break through. You will need a floor for the front end of the bolt stop. A floor at the rear end of the bolt stop
for the 1/8 in spring.
4. Slot for the bolt stop lug is too small causing binding. The front of the bolt stop lug is flat with squared edges.
Your 3/16 end mill is round. You'll have to make the thru and thru slot a little longer. Don't cut out the floor
needed for the front of the bolt stop while trying to enlarge the thru and thru slot.
5. Making the hole for the post holding the Bolt stop in place too shallow or too deep or not perpendicular to the slot.
6. Breaking drill bit and or tap with resulting fractured bit stuck in your work. Ask me how I know this.
Drilling the hole for the pin ( tangential to the receiver ) requires a flat surface so the drill bit doesn't walk.
a 1/16 carbide end mill will help if you want a smaller " clean " hole.
I wanted to make the Bolt Stop to look nice thus the blind hole for the post accessible only from the bottom.
The plan was to make a 2mm threaded bolt ( allen head ) which tapered to 1/16 diameter smooth shaft to serve as the pin.
I've read somewhere that 1/16 rolled pin tend to fracture over time. This turned to disaster when the 2mm tap
fractured causing all sorts of expletives to come out of my mouth. I had to bore it out using a 1/8 carbide end mill.
Now, I had to make an aluminum sleeve 1/8 OD with a 1/16 hole for the pin. As of now, it is held in place and hopefully
won't fall out for this weekend's Match. I'm planning to plug the 1/8 bore hole with a tapped plug and resume my original
plan.
Hope this helps someone.
Installed my first External Bolt Stop from PTG 2 days ago and came across you OP.
Hope it helps you....or maybe someone else.
Blind end Install technique.
Suggestions / tools needed:
1. 3/16 carbide 4 flute end mill approx cost $ 20-25
2. 1/16 carbide drill
3. 1/8 carbide 4 flute end mill
4. 2 mm tap
Considerations:
1. Installation of bolt stop must allow ample clearance for case ejection.
2. Bolt must travel rearward far enough to allow feeding from magazine.
3. Must be easily accessible .... may require stock alteration.
Pitfalls:
1. Proper clearance at the back of the bolt stop when it is depressed.
2. Before removing the receiver from the milling machine make sure you are
DONE with all the slot work cutting. Once the receiver is removed it is next
to impossible to remount it exactly the same way in front to back, left to right, and rotation around the axis.
3. Know the thickness of the receiver and the depth of the slot you need to cut. One technique I
used, while cutting the slot at about 3/4 of the desired depth, I did a plunging cut through the receiver for
the bolt stop lug. Examination of the hole thru and thru will show you how much wall there is left before you
break through. You will need a floor for the front end of the bolt stop. A floor at the rear end of the bolt stop
for the 1/8 in spring.
4. Slot for the bolt stop lug is too small causing binding. The front of the bolt stop lug is flat with squared edges.
Your 3/16 end mill is round. You'll have to make the thru and thru slot a little longer. Don't cut out the floor
needed for the front of the bolt stop while trying to enlarge the thru and thru slot.
5. Making the hole for the post holding the Bolt stop in place too shallow or too deep or not perpendicular to the slot.
6. Breaking drill bit and or tap with resulting fractured bit stuck in your work. Ask me how I know this.
Drilling the hole for the pin ( tangential to the receiver ) requires a flat surface so the drill bit doesn't walk.
a 1/16 carbide end mill will help if you want a smaller " clean " hole.
I wanted to make the Bolt Stop to look nice thus the blind hole for the post accessible only from the bottom.
The plan was to make a 2mm threaded bolt ( allen head ) which tapered to 1/16 diameter smooth shaft to serve as the pin.
I've read somewhere that 1/16 rolled pin tend to fracture over time. This turned to disaster when the 2mm tap
fractured causing all sorts of expletives to come out of my mouth. I had to bore it out using a 1/8 carbide end mill.
Now, I had to make an aluminum sleeve 1/8 OD with a 1/16 hole for the pin. As of now, it is held in place and hopefully
won't fall out for this weekend's Match. I'm planning to plug the 1/8 bore hole with a tapped plug and resume my original
plan.
Hope this helps someone.
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