prvi priming problem

grahame

New member
I'm new to reloading 7.62X51 Nato...i've done .303 and .45acp before so i'm not quite a newcomer .....I bought some prvi 7.62x51 new brass and have trouble seating the primers ( CCI #34) not only difficult to get the primer in ( not all) but getting the primer all the way in....What I tried was to use the primer pocket reamer/de crimping tool from RCBS as I think there is a radius at the bottom of the pocket...this works some of the time but not all......any ideas ? thanks in advance Grahame
 
I'm new to reloading 7.62X51 Nato...i've done .303 and .45acp before so i'm not quite a newcomer .....I bought some prvi 7.62x51 new brass and have trouble seating the primers ( CCI #34) not only difficult to get the primer in ( not all) but getting the primer all the way in....What I tried was to use the primer pocket reamer/de crimping tool from RCBS as I think there is a radius at the bottom of the pocket...this works some of the time but not all......any ideas ? thanks in advance Grahame

Sounds like you have crimped primer pockets. Either swage the pocket, or lightly chamfer the primer pocket with an RCBS case deburring tool or similar.

GsT
 
Sounds like you have crimped primer pockets. Either swage the pocket, or lightly chamfer the primer pocket with an RCBS case deburring tool or similar.

GsT

He was using new brass. How could the primers be crimped in? Seems to me that you'd need a different set up to prime first and then crimp that primer. That might just be a characteristic of Prvi brass. I have some in .270 Win, but I'll be danged if I can remember if it was hard to prime.
 
Last edited:
prvi primer problem

ref this problem again....I measured the OD of the primer at .212" the primer thickness (depth)at .126" and the pocket depth at .130" So I tried the tapered reamer( mil crimp remover) then used the RCBS primer pocket tool....all a bit better but not quite....The promlem I believe is the radius at the bottom of the primer pocket. I hope to solve as I don't want a slam fire...is this possible? regds Grahame
 
ref this problem again....I measured the OD of the primer at .212" the primer thickness (depth)at .126" and the pocket depth at .130" So I tried the tapered reamer( mil crimp remover) then used the RCBS primer pocket tool....all a bit better but not quite....The promlem I believe is the radius at the bottom of the primer pocket. I hope to solve as I don't want a slam fire...is this possible? regds Grahame
what rifle ?
an ar10 cannot slam fire..the geometry of the system prevents the firing pin from moving forward til the bolt turns(lugs engaged)
stop using those primers and try std rifle primers
get a pocket uniformer...
and yes i have seen new brass set up to crimp interfere with hand seating..a real pain
 
...
an ar10 cannot slam fire..the geometry of the system prevents the firing pin from moving forward til the bolt turns(lugs engaged)
stop using those primers and try std rifle primers
...
No, and no.
An AR-10 can slamfire, the initial reviews of the SR-25 rifle (circa late 1993) noted the gun would occasionally fire w/o actuation of the trigger, supposed cause was use of Federal primers in the tested ammo (Federal Gold Medal Match). The first AR-10s from Armalite would also do this, Armalite fixed the primer by installing a firing pin spring to reduce the amount of energy a firing pin would deliver when the bolt was closed.

In M16s, unintended discharges were also a issue, Remington arms required several years to engineer a primer which would not initiate on bolt closure. (No NDs.) Please remember this before you slamfire a Federal 205M when firing an AR-15 off the bench.

  • Remington small BR primers work really well in 5.56mm cases;
  • Federal created a special primer specifically for ARs, and;
  • CCI and Winchester make #34 primers for 5.56 mm NATO rounds.
Note that using a primer with more priming compound than necessary to ignite the powder in the case is not a bad thing, using the Remington BR primer is noted as being a method of reducing ES and SD in AR match loads.

Link to AR Small Rifle Primers, Brownells Website

 
He was using new brass. How could the primers be crimped in? Seems to me that you'd need a different set up to prime first and then crimp that primer. That might just be a characteristic of Prvi brass. I have some in .270 Win, but I'll be danged if I can remember if it was hard to prime.
s
Well shoot, I apparently glossed right over the fact that OP is using new brass.

Disregard, I have no idea...

GsT
 
Can anyone post a pic of a case that's set to have the primer crimped after the primer is seated? After further thought I suppose one could seat primers into cases that are intended to have the primer crimped afterwards using conventional priming tools. I hand prime exclusively and don't use a press at all.
 
Can anyone post a pic of a case that's set to have the primer crimped after the primer is seated? After further thought I suppose one could seat primers into cases that are intended to have the primer crimped afterwards using conventional priming tools. I hand prime exclusively and don't use a press at all.

if i had some i would, but i fixed all of it with a crimp removal tool. no there was no crimp, but an extra lip at the mouth of the pocket, it severely interfered with primer seating.
 
we only differ on the definition of slam fire,
after bolt lug engagement is not a slam in my opinion.
i try not to argue with asa.

No, and no.
An AR-10 can slamfire, the initial reviews of the SR-25 rifle (circa late 1993) noted the gun would occasionally fire w/o actuation of the trigger, supposed cause was use of Federal primers in the tested ammo (Federal Gold Medal Match). The first AR-10s from Armalite would also do this, Armalite fixed the primer by installing a firing pin spring to reduce the amount of energy a firing pin would deliver when the bolt was closed.

In M16s, unintended discharges were also a issue, Remington arms required several years to engineer a primer which would not initiate on bolt closure. (No NDs.) Please remember this before you slamfire a Federal 205M when firing an AR-15 off the bench.

  • Remington small BR primers work really well in 5.56mm cases;
  • Federal created a special primer specifically for ARs, and;
  • CCI and Winchester make #34 primers for 5.56 mm NATO rounds.
Note that using a primer with more priming compound than necessary to ignite the powder in the case is not a bad thing, using the Remington BR primer is noted as being a method of reducing ES and SD in AR match loads.

Link to AR Small Rifle Primers, Brownells Website

 
if i had some i would, but i fixed all of it with a crimp removal tool. no there was no crimp, but an extra lip at the mouth of the pocket, it severely interfered with primer seating.

I expect then that they must have a special set up to deal with the lip when they prime and load billions of rounds for the military. Doesn't sound like the reason for OP's problem however.

If he has a small sheet of glass or plastic he can put a pencil under one edge and stand the primed cases up on it. When you lift the glass a bit any cases with a protruding primer will wobble. For those I just simply squeeze a little harder on the handle of the priming tool.
 
gee lets see i got some, but no way he did BECASUE YOU SAID SO.
try posting on a thread where you can have some help, not just ignoring the problem.

I expect then that they must have a special set up to deal with the lip when they prime and load billions of rounds for the military. Doesn't sound like the reason for OP's problem however.

If he has a small sheet of glass or plastic he can put a pencil under one edge and stand the primed cases up on it. When you lift the glass a bit any cases with a protruding primer will wobble. For those I just simply squeeze a little harder on the handle of the priming tool.
 
gee lets see i got some, but no way he did BECASUE YOU SAID SO.
try posting on a thread where you can have some help, not just ignoring the problem.

Maybe he could post a pic of the case head. That would confirm things. It kind of sounds like that could be the case, but not definitive IMO. One would think that the extra lip around the primer pocket would be obvious and worthy of mention. It doesn't seem that Priv is currently producing brass that is intended to have the primer crimped afterwards. If he has some it is likely discontinued product.
How hard would it be to close the bolt on a round with the lip protruding?

https://www.prvipartizan.com/rcases.php

Note the 4 footnote where 8 x 57 is C.I.P. which I expect is Crimped In Primers.

A cursory Google search doesn't bring up anything where someone is having a similar problem. Most is from folks talking about fired crimped primer brass.

This little doodad is great for removing the crimp from military brass.

SyJUqKc.jpg
 
Last edited:
prvi primer problem

what rifle ?
an ar10 cannot slam fire..the geometry of the system prevents the firing pin from moving forward til the bolt turns(lugs engaged)
stop using those primers and try std rifle primers
get a pocket uniformer...
and yes i have seen new brass set up to crimp interfere with hand seating..a real pain

My Rifle is a BM 59 Beretta Mk1 ...can it slam fire ? I'm not happy taking the chance...Does anyone know of a primer pocker reamer that will remove the metal in the bottom radius of large primer pockets ?....i'm convinced that is my problem...I've searched all of the makers but all seem to have a 45 deg chamfer to the tip of the tool....how about other brands of brass? I was recommended to use #34 CCI but will purchase another brand to measure and try Thnx Grahame
 
prvi primer problem

I've now purchased a Beretta BM 59 E again in 7.62x51... so now I really want to solve the issue... Grahame
 
My Rifle is a BM 59 Beretta Mk1 ...can it slam fire ? I'm not happy taking the chance...Does anyone know of a primer pocker reamer that will remove the metal in the bottom radius of large primer pockets ?....i'm convinced that is my problem...I've searched all of the makers but all seem to have a 45 deg chamfer to the tip of the tool....how about other brands of brass? I was recommended to use #34 CCI but will purchase another brand to measure and try Thnx Grahame

I have an older Sinclair uniformer that allows you to adjust the depth of the cutter so maybe that could help if you can find one. Hope it wouldn't end up making the brass too thin in that area. One end for LP the other for SP.
 
Maybe he could post a pic of the case head. That would confirm things. It kind of sounds like that could be the case, but not definitive IMO. One would think that the extra lip around the primer pocket would be obvious and worthy of mention. It doesn't seem that Priv is currently producing brass that is intended to have the primer crimped afterwards. If he has some it is likely discontinued product.
How hard would it be to close the bolt on a round with the lip protruding?

https://www.prvipartizan.com/rcases.php

Note the 4 footnote where 8 x 57 is C.I.P. which I expect is Crimped In Primers.

A cursory Google search doesn't bring up anything where someone is having a similar problem. Most is from folks talking about fired crimped primer brass.

This little doodad is great for removing the crimp from military brass.

SyJUqKc.jpg
Yes It is. One of my friends uses military brass that I prep for him. When there is an issue with crimped primer pockets I put the chamfer tool in my 3 jaw and have at it. You just kiss the pocket and your done.

Mort
 
I think I know what my problem is...i just measured 10 primers #34CCI . they vary in depth from .1241" to .1270" Also I found a chart in Accurateshooter.com that shows primer depths of : CCI .118" , Fed .117" Rem .119" and Win .121". my prvi ocket measures .130" so seating the primer fully in should not be an issue.....Except for the radius in the bottom of my prvi brass..... Has anyone measured Lake City 7.62x51 pocket depth? Grahame
 
what I'm going to try is to chuck my RCBS pocket reamer into my mini lathe and then Dremel the face a little...hopefully this will dig into the radius at the base of the pocket. i.e to remove some of the tool chamfer.....it will taper more of the mouth of course...grahame
 
My Sinclair cutter is carbide, but man it's slower than Mike Tyson at a spelling bee when it comes to removing brass from the primer pocket. I use it more for a cleaner than I do for a uniformer.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top