Preferred Bedding Method for Rimfires

G

Gumby

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For those that have experience with different bedding methods.

What would your preferred method be?

Pillars or glue in the action?

I am sure that the type of action ( Anschutz, Turbo, Hall etc. ) would have some bearing on the method chosen.

For what its worth, the rifle that I am currently shooting an Anschutz 54 action that is pillar bedded into a Kelbly stock. It is skim bedded and I have varied the action screw torque to determine the "best" torque values.

Not interested in a generic answer such as "whatever my gunsmith prefers".

Really want to know if one approach has an advantage over the other, and would choose a gunsmith that can or would bed the action of my next rifle based on that information.

Mike
 
Mike, Alex Sitman of www.masterclassstocks.com has bedded all my rifles including sporters, all are pillered and bedded in the action with the exception of a cz ultra which has the barrel lug bedded.
 
Martin,

Thank you for your response.

The reason I ask the question is to find out if there is a "best" or "preferred" method used for rimfire benchrest rifles.

I got to thinking about it after reading Steve Boelter's interview with Allan Hall in Precision Shooting Magazine. Allan mentioned that he preferred gluing his actions into the stock to cut down on bedding problems.

My next rifle will be built with a Hall action and I was considering going with a glue in.
 
Gumby Dammit, (that is a reference to SNL),
There are gunsmiths that specialize in Hall's. You didn't iterate your question for that specific action. You mentioned several. If I were you, and I was going to build a Hall action.....I'd call Mark Penrod in North Manchester, Indiana. Penrod Precision px 260-982-8385. You will not regret it! And should I say ...I don't own a Hall (it will be my next new action) but I compete against several that he built and they are just all awesome.

John M. Carper

p.s. Mark has found a way to do it perfect without the glue-in. That is shooter friendly. Talk to him and he can explain.
 
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Gumby,
I’ve had my Hall for about 5 years now and it won 2 nationals pillar bedded and it’s won another 3 nationals since it was glued in. My point is, both will work, but I think my gun just shoots more consistently glued in and that’s the way it will stay.

If you do decide to go with pillar bedding have your gunsmith put another bedding screw forward of the trigger and just use the forward two, I’ve seen them done like this and I think that is the best way to bolt them in.

Peter
 
When you glue a Hall in, accidently or on purpose, make sure you can get to the trigger bracket in case of trigger failure.
 
Assuming both methods are done correctly, I don't think there is any difference between the two methods. FWIW, my Turbos are pillar bedded. I think in this case, the answer you don't want to hear, is probably the best one.
 
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Thank you for your responses, I do appreciate the feedback.

It will give me some things to consider. The only real decision that has been made so far is the action (already purchased).

Mike Ohlsen
 
I have a Turbo/Shilen that was built by Kelbly and glued in. I want to take this setup to Eley for testing ammo. I needed to break the bond so I could fit the barrel action in a holder. After warming the action with an iron here are the results:

100_0204.jpg


To be honest, the barrel/action almost fell out. You can see from the picture no more than 10% of the action was actually glued in.

I think Bill B probably has it right, assuming both methods are done correctly, but this rifle will be getting pillar and glass bedded when it goes back together.

Brian
 
I have a Turbo/Shilen that was built by Kelbly and glued in. I want to take this setup to Eley for testing ammo. I needed to break the bond so I could fit the barrel action in a holder. After warming the action with an iron here are the results:

100_0204.jpg


To be honest, the barrel/action almost fell out. You can see from the picture no more than 10% of the action was actually glued in.

I think Bill B probably has it right, assuming both methods are done correctly, but this rifle will be getting pillar and glass bedded when it goes back together.

Brian

Brian,
In these times you see more and more bad quailty of work, and not just talking about rifles being built. If that was their personal rifle I quarantee it would have been done right.

Joe
 
Brian,
That is not what anyone would call a flash bedding job.
But if you plan ahead you can test a glued in BR gun at an ammo factory.

Peter


RWS.jpg
 

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Peter,

I am very much interested in knowing how the aluminum bloc is attached to the stock ???
The very little we can see on the picture about the test facility looks like the testing range at RWS .

Thank you in advance .
 
Interesting that Peter, I'd like to know how it's attached to the rifle as well.

Joe, yes everything's taking a dip in quality these days, sign of the times I'm afraid. Surprised at Kelbly's though, I think someone was just having a lazy day and thought the less glue I put in, the less I will have to clean up. On the bright side the barrels a hummer so with the right ammo and a decent bedding job I'm hopeful.

Brian
 
Pigman,

This is the first time I’ve posted a photo on a forum and I really don’t know how, I did try to make it bigger.
I think the empty ammo boxes give a clue to where it is at.
The aluminium bracket is just bolted to the stock with two 8mm bolts and locks up solid. It wouldn’t be easy to do with a fibreglass stock but that one is a home made balsa core stock and it’s not hard to build in solid anchor points when the stock is being made. As I said, plan ahead and I made that stock 5 years ago.

Peter
 
Thank you Peter.

My rifles are built on a Scoville stock and unfortunatly, I think it would be very difficult to build the anchor points right now. I have to think about it ......

Concerning the test facility, sorry, I did not see your picture was named RWS xxx Poor brain .....
 
What about treating a pillar bedding job like a glue-in and using a release agent on the receiver but not removing it from the stock after bedding?
 
Evan you have to inspect the work. I know for a fact one of my rifles was redone because it wasn't 100% perfect. if it's not right it doesn't leave bellwood pa.

I do understand the need to inspect a conventional pillar bedding job, but how do you inspect glue-ins?
 
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