pin recoil lug or not

H

hkcarbine

Guest
I'm total rookie here with small lathe.

What I propose to do is turn my XR-100 Rem in .223 into a switch barrel. I will probably order a chambered and threaded barrel from shilen in .20 Var Tag. Is it necessary to pin the recoil lug or is that a matter of convenience?
I anticipate not doing any work to existing .223 barrel or action. Just face off new barrel to right length with appropiate go no go gauges. Your thought and opinions. This will be a varmit rifle. The factory .223 barrel shoots 1" groups at 100 yds easily.

Roger Q.

PS I read post about sacrificial gears and promptly ordered two for $4.00 each. Lathe is small, 11"X26" Grizzly G9972Z
 
It's just a convenience deal. You can buy a lug alignment fixture that attaches with the front action screw. This this fixture and an internal action wrench you would not need to remove the scope. With a pinned lug you might not have to remove the action from the stock. Depends on how tight the stock fits to the bbl contour.

What I have done to my last 2 Remmys is cut a notch in the front of the receiver to accept a Savage recoil lug. I use SSS lugs.

You WILL need an external action wrench when you remove the factory 223 bbl for the first time.
 
"Is it necessary to pin the recoil lug or is that a matter of convenience?"

no, it isn't necessary - but there is also no reason not to do it. you'll see what I mean once you get the barrel off.
 
Recoil lug pinning

Gentlemen:

Thanks for your responses. When you pin do you use split pins or dowel pins?

Roger Q.
 
The Holland recoil lug comes with a 3/32" dowell pin, and the lug is drilled/reamed through.
 
crb said:
You WILL need an external action wrench when you remove the factory 223 bbl for the first time.
Click to expand...

I have never required an external wrench on any 600/700 action I have removed over about 40 years... I have never damaged any using a spade type wrench... I have had to use a 3 foot extension to get enough leverage on some. I support the rear of the wrench with a board to the floor so the action stays straight and all the force is used to turn it.

I have found the pin will shear/break quite easily when the barrel is torqued tight... even with no lubricant between the lug and the action face and with lubricant on the barrel shoulder.... so I now add a little grease with a little 120 grit abrasive on the action face and use the recoil locating jig while installing the barrel... this grit causes enough friction between the lug and the action that the lug will stay in alignment. If anyone has found, after installing a barrel using a recoil lug locating jig, that when removing the jig the screw seem quite tight to remove, that is because the lug has slipped slightly. When using this slight amount of abrasive the way I described; the head space is not affected enough to bother altering anything. (about .0005 to .001)
 
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