Perfect Moly Followup

[onomrbil]

Okay, I tried the wet moly process again, this time without the bbs. This time I added the suggested amount of moly powder and measured out twice that amount of water like the McPherson article suggests. The bullets tumbled overnight. Since my tank has no vent holes to allow moisture to escape I dried the now damp bullets with a small heat gun and allowed them to tumble another 30 minutes. The result was another batch of beautifully plated bullets without the gigantic mess encountered with the bb technique.

I'll now try to get a reduced tumbling time for the process as eight to ten hours sounds like overkill.

There are two potentially beneficial byproducts to this process:
1. No moly dust all over everything at the end of the process.
2. No moly on your fingers when handling the bullets, even without wax.

If anybody out there has tried this and found an improved technique for this method please pass it on to the rest of us. Thanx!

 

[Gerry Nordmann]

Up date

Thanks for the update. I am saving all this info. "Badlands"

 

[Tony Shankle]

I am new to moly coating at home (not shooting them since I jumped on that bandwagon long ago) but actually doing the coating myself. When Walt stoppped coating the 210's I didn't have a choice. I had a small Neco kit made for necks and never really used it.

So I looked around and bought the Lyman Super Moly Kit. I got the powder, a couple of bowls for my tumblers, and the ceramic media. A friend of mine bought one at the same time so we could try together. I have to say, it was the easiest thing I could have hoped for and the coating was so good I couldn't believe it.

Now to my point. When I saw the post about Perfect Moly a few nights back I grabbed my PS and read the article with great interest. But, it seemed like the process took forever and was more trouble than my simple kit. Am I missing something? What is the benefit of the new process that you can't achieve the with a simple kit and the instructions?

 

[gt40]

WOW, I'm going to try it also!!! Even an old dog like me can still learn.

gt40

 

[Tony Shankle]

Hints for the Lyman Kit

If you buy the kit, here is my process. It is basically the instructions that you get plus some stuff. Also, I found you don't have to do it as long as they say in the instructions. And yes, I tested them by trying to tumble the moly back off of a few and that stuff is on there!

This is the process I use for Bergers which are not greasy with the Lyman kit.

1. In a seperate bowl of clean media, clean the bullets for 10 minutes.
2. In the second bowl with the ceramic beads, add 1/4 teaspoon of moly and tumble for 2 hours.
3. I highly recommend you get a case seperator. I just use my old Dillion because it sits in it's own tub and it doesn't make a mess. This wll keep you from digging around and getting moly all over your hands.
4. In a third bowl of media, tumble for 2 to 3 minutes to remove any excess and shine them up.

That's it. You do a hundred at a time and if you use the three bowl system your corn media will last a while. The moly they send last a long time so don't worry about buying extra for a while. You will not even consider waxing. Oh, and one more tip is to place a towel over the tumbler while it is running to cut down on the noise and contain any dust that might escape.

 

[onomrbil]

Timing Update

It appears that the normal timing is all that is required. I usually go four hours with the dry method and it seems to be fine with the wet method also. I just dried the bullets with the heat gun at the end and polished as usual, skipping the 30 minute dry tumble. I'm not sure, but it may be possible to cut tumbling time a bit more and still get the same results. One of you guys want to look into that while I'm tied up with the music business this week?

Thanx for all the replies. I think Mr. McPhersn may have gotten onto something.

 

[adamsgt]

Okay, I tried the wet moly process again, this time without the bbs. This time I added the suggested amount of moly powder and measured out twice that amount of water like the McPherson article suggests.

I re-read the article several times this morning and was unable to find a "suggested" amount of moly. The closest I could find was "add a bit of moly". Could you point me to the part of the article that gives a discrete quantity i.e. 1/16 tsp.

 

[onomrbil]

The suggested amount of moly is whatever the instructions that came with your moly powder recommend. I use 1/8 teaspoon per batch, but you can try more or less as directed.