optics help ?????

T

taxman

Guest
I know this has been asked before, but here goes;

I am just getting into this game and need some pointers on scopes.

I will primarily be shooting 200 yards and less for most of my shooting(range limitations)

I have shot a 36X fine cross hair Weaver and a Leupold 8.5 X 25 X 50 fine cross hair. I own both of these scopes.

I have never shot a dot reticle.

Pros or cons with dots.....

I like lots of power, I am very nearsighted with corrective lenses.

With the scopes that I have, what would be some good recommendations for scopes.

Finances are somewhat limited after purchasing new rifle and loading equipment. So no Marchs and would like to be less than $800.

Just need help in the right direction.

Sorry for the long post, but thanks for your thoughts and experience!

I am waiting on a used 6ppc & 222 Remington.

Tony D
 
Tony,
Despite what some people will say a good working weaver is Hard to top for bang for your buck. I like the 12-42 Nightforce BR model and while it is quite a bit less than a March it is around the price of 3 Weavers. Used 36 Leupolds are quite popular and do have a very good warranty.

Perhaps you might want to look into one of those screw on power boosters for either your Weaver or your Leupold. I have been thinking of that myself.
 
Dick,

Thanks for your opinion. :)

That is all that I am looking for!!
 
Weaver T-36 and Sightron 36X not Optical Booster friendly

You might want to read this first before considering a booster for the Weaver T-36 or Sightron 36X.

“TARGET SCOPES from 6mmBR.com

Exit Pupil: Given objectives (front lens elements) of equal size, the more magnification the scope, the smaller the exit pupil. Remember that the exit pupil, a tiny circle of light, must deliver ALL the optical data your eye receives. Bigger is better by far.

Too small an exit pupil will make a good scope dim and hard to use.

That's why ***we advise against boosting the Weaver T-36 or the 36X Sightron.***

With their respective 40mm and 42mm objectives, the exit pupil becomes too small when they are boosted beyond 36x.”

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

I found this to be the case with my T-36 and didn't see well until after I removed it. Gene Davis graciously accepted my return. Art
 
good information!

This is what I am looking for. As a newb it is way too easy to buy stuff you don't need or won't work.

This is why I posted here.

I realize everyone has an opinion as well.

Tony
 
I think that the 36X Weaver is the way to go. You will see the mirage and eventually learn to read it.

Because of the mirage bounce at 200, I changed my initial point of aim from center of mothball to 6 o'clock, that is, where the top edge of the horizontal cross hair just touches the outside of the line that defines the mothball, with the vertical cross hair centered. As the mothball jumps, I find it easier to aim at the lower position line edge to line edge than to hold to the center of a bouncing circle. Comments are welcome. I might learn something.
 
Boyd Allen said:
I think that the 36X Weaver is the way to go. You will see the mirage and eventually learn to read it.

Because of the mirage bounce at 200, I changed my initial point of aim from center of mothball to 6 o'clock, that is, where the top edge of the horizontal cross hair just touches the outside of the line that defines the mothball, with the vertical cross hair centered. As the mothball jumps, I find it easier to aim at the lower position line edge to line edge than to hold to the center of a bouncing circle. Comments are welcome. I might learn something.
Click to expand...


So you are aiming at the 'average bottom edge' of the bouncing ball?
 
...Just touching the lowest bottom edge, not the average...

My theory is that bubbles of hot air, heated by the sun warmed earth rise through the colder air and in doing so modify the refractive index and of the atmosphere from the perspective of the shooter viewing the target through his scope in such a way that his view of the target image is displaced upwards while looking through the hotter air, and "snaps back" to a lower apparent position as the bubble passes. I try to shoot at the target in its lowest position. I could also be dead wrong, but that is what I do and why.
 
Boyd Allen said:
My theory is that bubbles of hot air, heated by the sun warmed earth rise through the colder air and in doing so modify the refractive index and of the atmosphere from the perspective of the shooter viewing the target through his scope in such a way that his view of the target image is displaced upwards while looking through the hotter air, and "snaps back" to a lower apparent position as the bubble passes.
Click to expand...
Boyd,

It reminded me of when I used to shoot iron sight smallbore a few years back on a range that was enclosed front, back & one side & with baffles on the other side to protect those passing by. Anyway, while night shooting during winter (which isn't all that cold here), we used to get an effect with one layer of air riding on top of another at just about bullseye height, just enough so if you shot, you would get a stray 8 high & low every here & there. It generally happened at around 8:00 oc'clock, so the quick shooters were able to avoid it.

John
 
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