One I hadn’t seen before...

Mike Bryant

Mike Bryant

Active member
I was truing a 700 and took the bolt apart to face the bolt face. Looks like I’ll be bushing the firing pin. I have never seen a 700 with a firing pin hole this large. An .081” drill shank would go in the hole , a .082” wouldn’t. The original barrel was a .22-250. I’d bet it was a primer blanking dude.
 

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Looks like it has a nice radius on the edge of the FP hole. I bet that helps too.
 
"a primer blanking dude" ....... looks like they din't all blank, judging by the moat around it....... :)
 
That big firing pin hole did not cause all that primer piercing making that big moat. Bad primers or hot load would be my guess.

Chet
 
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alinwa said:
"a primer blanking dude" ....... looks like they din't all blank, judging by the moat around it....... :)
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The owner said it didn’t blank primers. But, the primers had a pretty good divot in them. I imagine that was an understatement.
 
JerrySharrett said:
Was this a new action or an older one? Looks like it has been shot quite a bit.


.
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G series serial number. And it has been shot a lot and I’m sure with pretty hot loads. Most guys try to get as much out of a .22-250 as they can velocity wise. It’s going back with a .22-243 with a 8 twist Krieger to shoot the 80 gr MK’s.
 
Mike Bryant said:
G series serial number. And it has been shot a lot and I’m sure with pretty hot loads. Most guys try to get as much out of a .22-250 as they can velocity wise. It’s going back with a .22-243 with a 8 twist Krieger to shoot the 80 gr MK’s.
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Firing pin hole that large and hot loads y guess the primers would blank at about35kpsi. Bolt full of blank discs?

.
 
JerrySharrett said:
Firing pin hole that large and hot loads y guess the primers would blank at about35kpsi. Bolt full of blank discs?

.
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No, he said he hadn’t blanked any primers. He either shot it hot enough to loosen primers or shot his brass so long that the primers loosened and etched his bolt face. It also had a Jewell trigger and he hasn’t had any problem with it. You can’t blank very many prmers and keep a Jewell functioning. I’ve seen lot of them broken from blanked primers. I will have to take the Jewell apart though and give it a good cleaning as it looked like it has been soaked in oil.
 
alinwa said:
Here's one to start

http://benchrest.com/showthread.php?93613-Bolt-face-bushing
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I make the bushing in two steps. About 3/8” long with the front step turned down to .120 diameter x.125” long, second step is turned to .201” in diameter x .200” long. I’ll drill it with a 60 degree center drill almost to the diameter of the .120” diameter then drill it with the next number sized drill bit down from a .063”, then ream with a .063” chucking reamer. The bushing is made out of a grade 8 quarter inch cap screw. Part the bushing off to the length I want it where the bushing is .200” or slightly longer on the .201” diameter. The bolt face is bored out to .200 in diameter x .187” deep with the inside hole drilled to .125” in diameter. The bushing is coated with a thin layer of green loctite and pressed into the bolt face with an arbor press. The bolt is put back into the lathe and faced off and I run the .063 reamer through the hole to clean up any burr from facing off the bolt face. The firing pin tip is turned down to .062” for .400” back from the tip. The bushing being a little longer than the original tip allows for the firing pin tip to never leave the .063 hole when the firing pin is in the cocked position. Doing all the machining of the bushing before pressing it
in except for facing off the bushing allows you not to be at much loss if you break a drill bit off when drilling the hole for the bushing. Break a drill bit off you scrap the bushing and make another bushing. Lots better than pressing the bushing into the bolt and then doing your drilling and breaking a drill bit after the bushing has been pressed into place. When I make the hole for the bushing to fit into in the bolt face, I’ll use a 11/64” end mill in a drill chuck and run it in .187 deep. Then switch to a small boring bar and bore the diameter to .200 x .187 deep. I made pin gages for gaging the diameter of the .200 diameter bored hole in the end of the bolt face before pressing the bushing in. A double ended pin gage with .198 and .199 on each end and another .200 and .201 on each end. Taking the Remington extractor out before you press the bushing in will save you problems. If you get green loctite in the extractor, it will solidify the extractor and make it to where it won’t work. Simpler to remove the extractor and replace it with a new one.
 
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