New to Benchrest - sizing die questions

J

JimBarshinger

Guest
Ok. Here is another question. I purchased a Hall LV 6ppc that came with 2 re-sizing dies. The one die is a bushing neck die that fits in a press. My understanding from the seller is that this is a custom die that came with the gun (gunsmith was Messer). The second die is a Redding full length small base die (not a bushing die). From what I have read, I am thinking that the Redding is probably not the way to go as it is not a bushing die and that a small base die will probably resize the case too much. So, the bushing neck die is probably good for now and I was thinking that I would get a Harrell full length bushing die as well. Now, I have read some posts indicating that the current trend for many benchrest shooters is to full length re-size after every firing. Do you think that this is what I should plan to do from the start? If so, is a Harrell full length die a good die for me to start with?

Thanks again,
Jim Barshinger
 
If you have some used brass, that came with the rifle, you can fire a few cases, with warm loads, measure them at the point where the sizing stops above the extractor groove, at the shoulder (diameter) and the fired neck. With the expander ball (if there is one) out of the redding die, size a case with each die, and measure the results. That should give you a pretty good idea of what you have, and whether you need a new die, you may not.
 
Boyd,

Thanks. Will do that. Can you also comment on neck sizing and occasionally full length sizing vs. full length sizing every time?

Thanks for your help.

-Jim
 
The problem with neck sizing and FL sizing every so often is that the cases won' all get tight at the same time, and you probably won't know you have a problem with a tight case until you chamber the round. I learned a long time ago that if you have one tight bolt close in a group where the rest are not, that shot will always open up the group, significantly.

At the pressures that are common shooting a 6PPC in competition, using a closely fitted FL die is the preferred method for most shooters. The thing is that if you have not worked with a die that is a very close match to the chamber before, your impression of FL sizing will undergo a big change after you do. They barely move the case, and this combined with accurate measurement of shoulder bump, means that you hardly ever have to trim. A good FL die and seater are very important to extracting the best from a rifle, on a consistent basis. Do you own a good concentricity gage?
 
Boyd, Thanks again for your reply. That explains a lot. I own a home made concentricity gauge that seems to do the job pretty well. Now one thing that I am still wondering is what constitutes the right amount of sizing. In reading Ratigan's book, he was talking about getting a die that will size only 0.0005" at the shoulder and base. I called Harrell's and he was talking about choosing a die that will resize about 0.002" at the neck and the base - obviously much more than Ratigan's recommendation. I have heard elsewhere 0.001" being about right.. I think that was from the article by Carstensen on 6mmbr.com.. Is there a generally accepted amount of sizing that most people use, or is it pretty much to each his own?

Thanks,
Jim
 
OH, and as for bullet seaters, I have a Wilson micrometer top seater and a Redding competition seater that came with the gun.

-Jim
 
One thing that you need to consider is that brass has spring back, more as it work hardens from being fired and FL sized, so a die that just barely sizes a new case may not work properly on a well used case. If you get a die from Lynwood that you don't like, because it sizes more than you want, he will probably trade you for one that is one size bigger. I can't give you much help as to what size to order because I have one of his old Vari-base dies that has base inserts that come in .001 increments.
 
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