New Fine Threaded Speed Screw

J

Jay Cutright

New member
Am I the only shooter that ever thought this would be a good idea?
I know it's really contradicting to keep calling it a speed screw but it's built just like a speed screw that doesn't wiggle and the stem doesn't turn with the knob, it just moves straight up and down at the rate of 20 threads per inch for finer adjustments than the ones developed for short range benchrest.
 

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Here's another look at it.
I just got this all together and worked it a little bit. I had concerns of gulling the threads so I lapped them a little while ago with 400 grit lapping compound.
I'm anxious to try it out at the range.
 

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I kind of have the same deal only i use the threads in the plate. A 1/2 - 20 with a carbide 60 degree insert and to take up the slack and add some resistance. I drilled and taped for a set screw in the plate in the rear. Put a lead bb in and ran the set screw up tight, removes the slop that Sinclair put in and added some feel as you move, it took the vertical away at 1000 yds now both the elevation and windage move the same. I also changed the 1" primary rise screw to a 1"- 8 thread for faster movement to get on the target. Plus a smaller wheel, to get it out of the way…….. jim
 
You know, what I was after more than anything else was when I'm shooting a group and have to make an adjustment between shots I wanted a finer adjustment.

I don't know when I will learn to shoot again.?
I'm fighting it every shot sometimes.
I look forward to making my rifle track so well that I "never" need to move a knob between shots.
If this knob will help me get by the way I'm shooting right now it will also work out real good for the occasional minor adjustment a guy might need every once in a while when he's on good run.
 
I use the plates on the gun, i can see the hit at 100 and 1000. Tracking is the answer, i may only make an adjustment 50% 0f the time and it is in the box every shot. i can pull the gun to the rear over an 1" and it will stay on the aiming point a 1/4" dot at 100 yds. It makes life a little easier……. jim
 
No plates on my light gun. I'm building a new stock and thinking about a thicker rear bag to start over with on the new stock.
 
I never had a heavy gun, plates and only a few oz. 4" on the front, you can get a 4" bag and use the 3" front rest top you have. The rear is 2" and i use a flat top doctor bag. the plates have to run parallel to the bore and centered left to right. ….. jim
 
I have considered many times putting a 4" to 6" wide plate under the forearm of my light gun but I don't see how I could gain anything by having one under the back end of it. Is it worth having a big ole wide bag to reach around just to have a extra wide set of ears to fit a set of rails?
Post a picture of it, I'll check it out and maybe someone else would like to see it.
 
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