Need a smith...

M

mikecyr

Guest
Hello,

I have a Remington 700 that I had rebuilt last year. Upgraded the stock and barrel from the standard contour barrel on the BDL to a varmint contour and added an HS stock as well. This is in 308. I'd like for this to be a switch barrel rig to 243 as well. What I am looking for is a smith who could do the action and barrel fitting while also converting the head spacing method to the Savage lock ring system. I would also want a "go to" gauge made from a "no go" gauge. I already have the "go" and "no go" gauge set.

Anyone know of anyone who has done this or could do it? A lock ring would need to be made with the Remington thread pitch. The barrels would need to have their threads extended for lock ring use too. I am hoping that I can find someone who can do this while keeping the appearance of it looking professional and not half-assed...can I say that here?

Thanks!


Mike
 
It can be done, but I don't know why you would want it done that way. Why not have the recoil lug pinned and have the barrels fitted normally, and just switch them? Why would you want to convert it to a "nut" system?
 
Mike

I could do it for you but as Wayne said, "Why"

We've been changing barrels for 50 years or more with nothing more than an action wrench and a barrel vice. Once a barrel is fitted you don't need gages to install it again on the action. Your taking something that is pretty simple and straight forward and complicating it.

Dave
 
The only advantage that I can see for the Savage system is that it allows one to fit a threaded and chambered barrel without a lathe, but since no one offers these for Remingtons, there is no reason to use the system for that brand. If you are going to have a gunsmith chamber and thread a barrel for a Remington, using the standard barrel shoulder means that you don't need gages, since the headspace is built in when the barrel in fitted. As was said earlier, just have a pinned recoil lug installed and get an action wrench and barrel vise and you will be set.
 
The only reason to go with a nut is because you want to do it all yourself. If you are going to pay a gunsmith then just go with the std shouldered bbl tenon and a pinned recoil lug. With an internal action wrench and a bbl vise you can change the bbl in about 2 mins without removing the action from the stock and also not having to remove the scope. This is for target rifles with big thick bbls and lots of clearance in the bbl channel. If you want a closely fitted bbl channel you will have to remove the stock but you won't have to mess with the scope. There is no real reason to even check the headspace when changing the bbl when it is shouldered.

If you want to go with the nut then just order a prefit bbl from Pacnor. They have as a regular stock item a nut for the Rem threads. It uses a Savage wrench. The nut looks much nicer than the Savage nut. If you go with the Pacnor prefit you will not need a gunsmith to do the installation if you have the proper tools. You will need to adj the headspace every time you change the bbl.

I have 3 of the Pacnor nuts. One is on a rimfire which means I can adj the headspace since this bbl has a cone breech.

40xbblnut.jpg
 
my reasoning for doing so is that I would do the shouldering myself but I am without a lathe and cannot see my budget allowing one again anytime soon. I pretty much do all my own stuff but no longer have a lathe. Going with the Savage system will allow me to get a tad more life out of the barrel. I typically clean up the chamber to keep up with erosion if the rifling is still good. Now that I cannot use a lathe to reset the shoulder, I am hoping that I would be facing a one time expense of having my tubes threaded for a locknut so I can reset the head space with a "set to" gauge after I have reamed the chamber or what ever...

I understand where you're coming from....I just hate to pay for something I can do myself save for the shop equipment. Clean up the shop and keep the guns, or sell the guns to keep the shop...dammed if I did, dammed if I didn't!

Thanks to all,


Mike
 
mikecyr said:
Hello,

I have a Remington 700 that I had rebuilt last year. Upgraded the stock and barrel from the standard contour barrel on the BDL to a varmint contour and added an HS stock as well. This is in 308. I'd like for this to be a switch barrel rig to 243 as well. What I am looking for is a smith who could do the action and barrel fitting while also converting the head spacing method to the Savage lock ring system. I would also want a "go to" gauge made from a "no go" gauge. I already have the "go" and "no go" gauge set.

Anyone know of anyone who has done this or could do it? A lock ring would need to be made with the Remington thread pitch. The barrels would need to have their threads extended for lock ring use too. I am hoping that I can find someone who can do this while keeping the appearance of it looking professional and not half-assed...can I say that here?

Thanks!


Mike
Click to expand...
try going to montour country rifles / mcrifles .com
 
reinventing the wheel

mike, if your rifle already has a custom barrel installed in 308 and you want a switch barrel to a 243 just pin the recoil lug or use a tool like the klyendorst (sic) to hold it from spinning and have witness marks on the underside of the action. then turn off your 308 and spin on your 243 barrel. i had a friend that had a mauser 98 with 4 different barrels. he had a spanner wrench deal that locked in a notch on the underside of the barrel. the barrels just have to be tight. one dont have to hire a 800 lb gorrilla to jump on a pipe wrench to snug them up!!
as others have mentioned altering the bolt face and the addition of a barrel nut is unnessary and in my opinion makes a sleek remington look clunky. kinda like taking a hollywood movie star and adding 200 lb of cottage chese flab to her thighs!! YUK:eek:OHH
 
Mike,
If I read you correctly, you are thinking that you can ream the chamber forward into the barrel to freshen the throat without a lathe? I don't think that this is a good plan. After all, even if you could somehow keep the reamer straight, you would still have to cut the same amount off of the back of the barrel that you advanced the chamber, and reestablish the counter bore at its correct depth, hardly a job for a screwdriver and a rat tail file. If someone makes prefit barrels for a Remington that are threaded for a Savage style barrel nut, then you might be able to save a little replacing a barrel, but I doubt that there are many who would supply such an item, and you still would need a smith to set the barrel back correctly.
 
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