need a good f-class scope

M

mildot

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I just bought a Savage Model 12F/TR .308 Win. Have two other .308's I shoot but need some input on new optics, 20MOA rails and mounts. We can only shoot 300 yards @ the club I am in, but hold F-class shoots @ 200 yards. Makers, power suggestions, reticle any help would be appreciated.
 
You probably aren't going to need a 20 MOA rail for f-class.
As far as glass, it all depends on how deep your pockets are. If you are limited to 300 yards you could probably make do with a scope up to 16 power. If you are going to go beyond that, you'll need to look at up to 25 power and maybe even 36. A mil-dot isn't required but doesn't hurt. The Nikon buckmaster series with a side focus would not be a bad entry level investment, they have the pricier Monarch series. Burris is also a good option and you can never go wrong with leupold.
 
The higher the power the better, I run 20x50x50 Premier/Leupolds on both my F-Class F/TR guns .308 and .223. The local club shoots 300 F-Class, but I also travel to VT and NH for 600 yd. matches. At 300 I can see my holes so I can adjust if need be, while in VT and NH they have target pits. Look for one at least 40x so you can see your hits and keep your group where you want it. As far as a 20 moa base, you may want to run up to a 35 if the scope you buy doesn't have enough elevation, just in case you get the chance to shoot way out there you'd be set. I have 50 moa in mine, I can zero at 100 yds., and have at lot of room to adjust, more than I would ever be able to use with either caliber.
 
fdkay said:
You probably aren't going to need a 20 MOA rail for f-class.
As far as glass, it all depends on how deep your pockets are. If you are limited to 300 yards you could probably make do with a scope up to 16 power. If you are going to go beyond that, you'll need to look at up to 25 power and maybe even 36. A mil-dot isn't required but doesn't hurt. The Nikon buckmaster series with a side focus would not be a bad entry level investment, they have the pricier Monarch series. Burris is also a good option and you can never go wrong with leupold.
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I am lookig @ the Sightron SIII 8-32x56 LR mildot, runs about 825.00 I have two Burris, 2 Millett 4.5-16 X 56 MD on my Fn Herstal 308 and Bushmaster .223 Varmit 24 in fluted. Both drive tacks, esp the FN 308. One holer @ 200 yards with hand loads. We have access to 500 yards and also 1000 yards. It's there the Milletts look bad, inside 400 is a snapshot. Thanks for the input
 
Taildrag15X said:
The higher the power the better, I run 20x50x50 Premier/Leupolds on both my F-Class F/TR guns .308 and .223. The local club shoots 300 F-Class, but I also travel to VT and NH for 600 yd. matches. At 300 I can see my holes so I can adjust if need be, while in VT and NH they have target pits. Look for one at least 40x so you can see your hits and keep your group where you want it. As far as a 20 moa base, you may want to run up to a 35 if the scope you buy doesn't have enough elevation, just in case you get the chance to shoot way out there you'd be set. I have 50 moa in mine, I can zero at 100 yds., and have at lot of room to adjust, more than I would ever be able to use with either caliber.
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Thanks for the input, Sightron has some impressive optics, SIII 8-32X56 LR Mildot is what I am leaning towards, any news? I usually use Burris hunting optics, also have 2 milletts; 4x16x56 Mildot. Both clear as a bell out to 400 yards. Your 20x50x50, is the reticule in the first or 2nd focal plane. this confuses me, do I want 1st or 2nd FP? I appreciate your help, my F/TR arrives Thursday. Later
 
Thank you for a very interesting discussion, I'm learning a lot from this one and will keep monitoring it for new posts. (Have not purchased my first quality scope yet, hoping to avoid buyers remorse)
 
In my humble opinion, variable power with as much power as you can afford would be my advice. 300M can still subject you to significant mirage where 16-18 power is all you want, but on more overcast days, 36 and even 42 power is really nice. You can always dial back but you can't create more power if you don't have it.

As for reticles, I don't care for mildots myself, they are cluttered and the dots are usually too large. I personally prefer a fine target dot of no more than 1/8 MOA, such as the Leupold Fine Target Dot or the Nightforce NP-2DD. It makes seeing the X-ring much easier and you can actually see your shot holes.
 
Apoplectic said:
In my humble opinion, variable power with as much power as you can afford would be my advice. 300M can still subject you to significant mirage where 16-18 power is all you want, but on more overcast days, 36 and even 42 power is really nice. You can always dial back but you can't create more power if you don't have it.

As for reticles, I don't care for mildots myself, they are cluttered and the dots are usually too large. I personally prefer a fine target dot of no more than 1/8 MOA, such as the Leupold Fine Target Dot or the Nightforce NP-2DD. It makes seeing the X-ring much easier and you can actually see your shot holes.
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thanks for the input, I am leanig more towards the Sightron SIII or the Burris Black Diamond 8-32 target dot, side focus posi-loc. like I said I own 2 burris and can't find any reason not to buy another. I did not think about the "Dot MOA" size, and the mildots do screw with you hole findings too. Later.
 
I'm one of those guys who believe in simplicity for the sake of simplicity. I used an 8-32X50 scope for awhile and found that I never changed the magnification once I had it set. When something went wrong (and with more pieces in it to go wrong, something will go wrong) I went to a fixed power Weaver KT-15. It works. It works well and it hasn't given me any problems. I don't need a high power scope except to see where my last shot went and my spotting scope does that well enough.

Considering prices these days, you might be better off with a less-expensive scope and more ammo. Just a thought...
 
millet scope

hey, i have a cz550 in 308 and I have put burris tatical mounts and millet tactical scope on it. It has the full paralux adjustment out to a 1000yrds and the clarity of the scope is great. I have the mildot reticle but to me i think its just preference. I like the mildot for shooting. But I gave $600 for the scope. The clarity and adjustments are real accurate and great. The scope also had 1/8" adjustments. Well good luck
 
Been champaigning in F(O) with an Elite 4200 1" 6x24 AO w/mildots for a few years now. Optics are very good for the price as are the mechanicals. The 1/8" clicks are much better then the 1/4 commonly found.

I use the mildot reticle for quick adjustments. dialing only for large constant shifts.

For your distances, there is enough elevation to go. I would get some Burris rings w/inserts and shim accordingly. There is little issue going to 800yds or further when shimmed properly. The scope has no issues working at the extremes of the turrent adj range.

I am hoping to receive a Sightron SIII LR 6x24 shortly. Be interesting to see how this fares.

I like the 24X as it allows me enough target resolution for fine adjustments AND I can see the surrounding flags and conditions. All shots are marked so you don't need to see your bullet holes. However, very high mag limits field of view and missing a condition shift is the fastest way to drop points.

I do not shoot with a spotting scope.

Jerry
 
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