My rust preventive is gummy

B

bomgardner

Guest
After he installed my muzzle brake my gunsmith told me that the rust preventive I use is making the barrel of my rifle gummy. I use Birchwood Caseys Sheath which I thought worked well. What rust preventive or gun oil should I use to clean my rifle and its bore? What cleaning technique should I use when cleaning the bore? Run a wet patch and store it or run a wet patch followed by a few dry patches?
 
Kroil

When I'm done cleaning my rifle barrel, I run a patch with a fair amount of Kroil on it and leave it that way. Next time I bring the rifle out, I run a dry patch to remove anything in the barrel, then run a single patch with just two drops of Kroil on it and shoot it.
 
Correct!

Most rust preventive stuff will make things gummy. Or I should say turn gummy.

Even Kroil will turn gummy. When in doubt, put a puddle of some of your favorite rust preventive stuff a a piece of metal and let it set for a few weeks or longer. GUMMY!

I not longer use any type or oil on the outside of my guns and have gone back to a blend of carnauba and bees wax. Flitz makes a good blend. My hunting rifles sometimes get some harsh treatment and since I have gone back to wax I have not problems with rust.

If you really want to treat your bore and the outside of your guns with best non-gumming lubricant, anti-seize, penetrant and cleaner then try some TSI301. This suff can even be use to clean up a wood stock.

TSI301 - American Gas & Chemical Co. 201-767-7300

Neal Johnson used to sell it and recommended it for cleaning .22 RF bores and to use to lubricate fine sights. Seems to be unknown to BR.
 
Remember the cosmoline days. The U.S. Government used this product until they started counting the losses due to corrosion. They no longer (for the past 50 years) hasn't used any oil or greece to cover metal. Everything is dry packed. Why the shooting public continues to ignore this is beyond belief to me.

Vapor phase inhibitors are the rule today and since the late 1950's. If you are looking to rust your firearms stay with the same method you are currently using. You need dry lubricants to stop the rust and to keep the rust away for long term storage you need dry packing.
 
Try Singer Sewing Machine Oil.

Also, do you store the cleaning products in an outdoor shed that gets below freezing?

Just a couple of thoughts
 
I think the .....

reason for corrosion w/cosmoline is because it is an organic compound, like motor oil. If you wanted really long-term storage, you could use something like synthetic gear lube, 90-140wt., & possibly couple it w/VPI, some of that stuff is unbelieveable!!! But, after I'm finished cleaning, I lube the bore w/Mpro7 oil, put a caplug on the muzzle, wipe down the exterior, then burnish the exterior somewhat, then, wipe all off the exterior(it certainly has a ''different" feel, too.) then store it muzzle-down. Haven't had any "gumminess" & when I go to the range, I run a patch w/some on it, then dry the chamber, then shoot her damp. The MPro7 leaves behind a very light film after the vehicle is gone, but never any sticky or tackiness; the people I've recommended it to have all been very happy. I plan to try it in rimfires soon.
 
You can't go wrong with rig

I have used RIG (Rust Inhibiting Grease) for years and highly recommend it. I've had it in bores of rifles for 10 years and it was still working to prevent rust. It's non-toxic and won't harm wood stock finishes. I love it!
 
Bomgardner ...

What cleaning technique should I use when cleaning the bore?
Here's a method that serves me well for routine cleaning as well as break-in cleaning.

S.G.&Y. BARREL BREAK-IN & CLEANING (by Benchrest Hall of Fame Inductee Speedy Gonzalez)

Many of our customers upon taking delivery of their new gun or barrel are in a quandary as how to go about breaking-in that new barrel for maximum life and accuracy. With so much written in magazines these days stating use this, don’t use that, brush, don’t brush...what’s a person to do??

At S.G.&Y. Precision, we have a unique opportunity to inspect many barrels on a daily basis with our video borescope. Consequently, we see the results of a variety of break-in as well as cleaning procedures, and most of them leave the rifle owners with their mouth agape when they see the fruits of their misinformed labor on our color monitor. We have seen practically new barrels ruined with less than a hundred rounds shot through them by some of the crazy and sometimes humorous break-in methods. Anyway here goes for what it’s worth.

A. Bore guides- If you don’t have one, get one! Without a good bore guide you are just wasting your time trying to break-in a barrel or cleaning it for that matter. More barrels are destroyed by cleaning without a bore guide than by shooting. There are many types and brands of bore guides available on the market and range in price from $5.00 to $50.00. The only one we recommend is the Lucas two-piece bore guide. They are the best insurance you can buy for that new barrel. All other bore guides in my opinion are only good for keeping the solvents out of the trigger and action.

B. Solvents- We recommend Sweets 7.62 for copper and a *solvent mix of our own(Actually Pat McMillan gave me this formula) for powder fouling and for cleaning/storing your gun for the next match or season. This Speedy Formula is made as follows:

Mix 2/3 rds. Hoppes No. 9 Plus Black Powder solvent with 1/3rd. Regular Hoppes No. 9 Nitro solvent. Let this mixture set overnight and it will form a sort of gel that adheres very well to the brush and cuts powder fouling to a minimum.

* Note: Butches Boreshine may be substituted for this Speedy formula.

C. Procedure for “Break-in”- Before firing that first shot, clean the barrel as if it had been shot by following these simple steps.
Step 1. Insert Lucas bore guide into receiver and chamber. If you don’t have one stop here and get one, if not, just shoot your gun and forget trying to take any care of your barrel at all. If you do have one, proceed, and give yourself one “At-A-Boy” for being astute enough to have purchased the proper tools for the job.
Note: One “Aw-” wipes out all “At-A-Boys”.
Step 2. Run one wet patch of Sweets through the bore and let soak for approximately 30 seconds. Do not patch this out.
Step 3. Next, run the brush through the barrel only enough to expose the entire brush. Yes, I know that you still have 12 more inches of cleaning rod you could push out the end of your barrel but we want to protect that new crown. Also, if that rod hangs out that far, you will eventually start wearing down the rifling at the crown from about 4 to 7 o’clock. This is very bad “JU-JU” for accuracy. OK, back to our next step. Once the brush is exposed, saturate it well with our Speedy Formula or Butch’s Boreshine and SLOWLY run the brush through the bore 10 complete back and forth passes while keeping the rod as straight as possible. This is when the Lucas bore guide really pays for itself! Remember, the key word is slowly. We are not trying to break any land speed records today. Let this sit a minute or two and proceed to the next step.
Step 4. After you have let the barrel soak for a few moments, saturate a patch with the Speedy Formula or Butch’s Boreshine and pass it through the bore. Follow this with 2 dry patches and then dry the chamber with Brake Kleen or lighter fluid. Next, gently wipe the crown off with a soft cloth and lube your bolt (lets not gall the lugs just yet). Now, your ready to shoot your first shot. Then follow the schedule below to complete your barrel break-in.
1. Clean barrel / lube bolt / 1 shot.
2. Clean barrel / lube bolt / 5 shots.
3. Clean barrel / lube bolt / 10 shots.
4. Clean barrel / lube bolt / 10 to 15 shots and clean again.

D. Additional Cleaning Tips-
1. Each time you clean you may also follow the last dry patch with a patch soaked with LOCK-EEZ. This is a graphite powder suspended in a quick evaporating carrier that coats the bore slightly before passing that first round through a completely dry bore.
2. We are always asked about powder fouling and how to remove it. The only product that we have seen that really does a good job on powder fouling, especially on the carbon ring that forms just ahead of where the neck ends in the chamber, is IOSSO Bore Paste. This is used with a Pro-Shot nylon bristle brush and worked slowly in the neck and throat areas, then slowly down the entire bore. Follow this up with a few wet patches, then dry the bore as usual, and your ready to shoot.

E. Follow the outline above for your regular cleaning program and I promise that your barrels will deliver their greatest accuracy and life without a lot of grief and hours of wondering if they are clean.

Good Shooting,
Speedy Gonzalez
 
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