My new barrel block

C

Chisolm

Member
Finally some positive progress on my heavy gun.

RearC.jpg


Left_1c.jpg


Right_2C.jpg



The ugly nose sticking off the top piece is a cantilever for scope mounting. The aluminum plate the barrel block is sitting on will be the forearm bottom when the stock is finished. The barrel block itself is 9" long, from my research that is probably pushing the limits.
This came out exactly as I had it pictured in my mind when I started so I had to post some pictures before I screw it up.
It still needs some polishing and I may anodize it too but have not decided yet.
James
 
Any cause for concern that the thin cantilever scope mount may be subject to a "tuning fork" effect.......as is the claim for the same design on shotgun slug barrels?
 
LHSmith said:
Any cause for concern that the thin cantilever scope mount may be subject to a "tuning fork" effect.......as is the claim for the same design on shotgun slug barrels?
Click to expand...

I'd be amazed if it didn't.

Fitch
 
Looks really nice. I know this is dumb but how do you bore the holes along the side? I'm guessing a milling machine but what keeps the tool from deflecting from the round side?
thanks: joe the barrel threader, lol
 
LHSmith said:
Any cause for concern that the thin cantilever scope mount may be subject to a "tuning fork" effect.......as is the claim for the same design on shotgun slug barrels?
Click to expand...

I had considered that when I started but I have seen some add on cantilevers that are flimsier than mine which is 1/2" thick. When I tap on it, it does not resonate so I think I may be ok. I have also considered adding a pressure point on the rear to prevent it.

Joe the holes on the edge are drilled with a 3/8" 4 flute end mill on milling machine. The bottom half is drilled and tapped for 1/4"x28 socket head screws. I had originally planned on using only 4 screws per side and making steel inserts so I wouldn't have to worry about stripping the threads but decided surely if I double the screws I won't need a lot of torque on the screws.

James
 
Very nice James. Lots of chips to make that from bar stock. What are your plans for the scope mounting? That might get interesting since it will need 20 minutes of taper for long range work. You will need to get the scope up pretty high for a large front objective to clear the barrel block. The front of the scope will be oriented down thus making clearance more difficult to acheive.
 
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J. Pendergraft said:
Very nice James. Lots of chips to make that from bar stock. What are your plans for the scope mounting? That might get interesting since it will need 20 minutes of taper for long range work. You will need to get the scope up pretty high for a large front objective to clear the barrel block. The front of the scope will be oriented down thus making clearance more difficult to acheive.
Click to expand...

Thank You,
The block is actually made from 1 1/2" I.D. 1/2" wall 6061 T6 tubing. I would have had a mess if I had tried boring it to size, my steady rest won't handle 2 1/2" dia and the bore in the headstock is 1 5/8".
I am just going to attach a 20 minute picatinny rail to the cantilever that will give me enough clearence. The mill I used is too sloppy to try to mill my own rail, unless I started with picatinny stock and just milled the taper in it.
I plan on bedding the block to the barrel because I know the bore isn't absouletely true.

James
 
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