My first Reload

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Oldchevy

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Ok Guy's and Girl's I need some Help! :eek: I have just Started reloading for my remington 700 sps, 308 cal, 26 inch barrel.
I got a deal on some A-Max 168 gn, So am going with that.
Now i need to know if i am doing this right! I am using varget powder
and 168 gn A-Max bullet, I am starting my load at the Min 42 gn and have been working my way up in 1/10th gns, 42 gn. 42.1 gn. 42.3 gn. 42.4 gn. 42.5 gn. is this a waste,Or should i be going up 1 gn at a time.

I have a hornady OAL gauge and took a reading of 2.331 from the lands of the rifle and have set the bullet back from the lands 15,000 making total OAL from ogee 2.316

Any help will help me greatly! Don't want to blow my head off :D

Thank you.
 
Oldchevy
I use .5 grain (increase) increments until I get close to max pressure then start using .3 grains.
Hope this helps.

Glenn
 
1/10th ?

try going up in .3 gr steps until you find a load you want to work with. The barrel of your rifle is to valuable to burn up 1/10th at a time in early load development. Welcome to benchrest central!!!!!
 
Ok Guy's and Girl's I need some Help! :eek: I have just Started reloading for my remington 700 sps, 308 cal, 26 inch barrel.
I got a deal on some A-Max 168 gn, So am going with that.
Now i need to know if i am doing this right! I am using varget powder
and 168 gn A-Max bullet, I am starting my load at the Min 42 gn and have been working my way up in 1/10th gns, 42 gn. 42.1 gn. 42.3 gn. 42.4 gn. 42.5 gn. is this a waste,Or should i be going up 1 gn at a time.

I have a hornady OAL gauge and took a reading of 2.331 from the lands of the rifle and have set the bullet back from the lands 15,000 making total OAL from ogee 2.316

Any help will help me greatly! Don't want to blow my head off :D

Thank you.

Would you be able to recognise high pressure signs if you experienced them?
.1 grain increase at a time is going too slow and you will waist a lot of time and money.
If you are well under the recommended maximum load then .5 grain increase is good reducing to less increase say .1 to .3 when you start to approach max loads and the primers start to show some flattening.
From then on its .1 increase and watch the primers and extraction like a hawk.
I like to try and find good accuracy at a lighter load first if possible.
 
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With cases the size of the .308 I generally increase powder charges in 0.5 gr increments until I get pressure signs. Don't rely on looking at the primers as the sole means of determining pressures either. Some primers will flatten sooner than others, and most factory rifles will show primer cratering due to large firing pin holes in the bolt face even with normal pressures.

If you are serious get a chronograph and when you reach the max velocity listed in Hornady's manual with your combination stop even if you're under their max listed charge. If you reach their max listed charge without getting their velocity stop there. When you have fired what seems to be a max load without having problems (loose primer pockets in a few -5 or 6 - loads are usually the first hint of pressures that are too high, but some brass is softer than others, FC is a prime example of soft brass) then you might be able to slowly increase powder charges to find what a maximum in your rifle is. Without a chronograph (a Shooting Chrony will work fine for under $100), if you get stiff bolt lift you're at or over the max charge in your rifle.

Maximum doesn't mean that most of the primers didn't puncture, or you could get the bolt open with a cheater bar. No awards are given for the highest velocity or the stiffest powder charge, well maybe the Darwin Award, but that's not what we're looking for. :D

In order to save components I make up test loads in three round groups, from my starting charge to the book maximum for a factory cartridge. That way you can take them all out to the range and fire them in sequence from lightest to heaviest and should be able to perceive when the bolt starts getting sticky. That's the time to stop and back off 0.5 to 1.0 gr. Don't substitute other primers than the ones you worked up the load with unless you back off ~2-3% in the powder charge, and when you get a new lot of powder it might be faster than the one you worked up the load with too so back off on the charge a bit and work up to what you were using if it's safe. Powders can and do vary from lot to lot, some more than others.

Like I said a chronograph is a great help in working up loads.
 
OK, at the risk of repeating what's already been said, here are some things to look for, signs of high pressure which are incontrovertable but NOT GOING TO BLOW YOUR HEAD OFF! (This is important :) )


You've gotten solid information, please understand that if I'm covering plowed ground it's in the interest of coherence, NOT to rewrite others' posts.

The primary indication that MAX is being reached is something called "casehead expansion." What "casehead expansion" means is that you've reached a pressure level which is permanently deforming the casehead.

In a nutshell, the thin portion of the case, the neck, shoulder and main body of the case, are designed to pop out and seal the chamber against gas leakage. THIS is in fact the main function of the brass case, it's not just a handy receptacle for the powder charge, it's a gasket. The HEAD of the case though IS NOT designed to swell or seal.

True signs of high pressure include:

-Tight bolt lift. Any appreciable drag on the bolt handle indicates that the case has swelled up a little too much.

-A tightening or "click" at the TOP of the bolt lift. Look at the top front corner of the bolt handle where it attaches to the bolt body. This area is called the root of the bolt handle. See a small angled area where the corner has been ground to match an angle in the receiver. This little ramp is called the "primary extraction cam" and it's there do break the case loose it it sticks. Keep it greased. Greased, it will give you accurate "feel."

-Shiny spots or smears on the head of the case. Look at the headstamp, (lettering) if you get hard bolt lift. If there's a small half-moon shiny spot note that it corresponds to the position and size of the ejector hole in the bolt face. The shiny spot is from brass being pushed into the extractor hole, TOO MUCH PRESSURE!! :)

-Loose primers. Casehead expansion is the result of high pressure gas being metered into the void of the primer pocket. When the pressure gets too high, enough gas enters that it hydraulically expands the primer pocket and consequently the casehead. THIS is a Never-Fail Test. IF your primers are getting loose you are TOO HOT for that brass. You can sometimes change brands of brass and continue to fire at this elevated pressure but I can't in good conscience recommend it at this stage....... in fact, if your primers are getting loose, I recommend you drop 2 grains and write this down as MAX.


Many of the other "pressure signs" like flattened primers and cratered primers can lie to you. Casehead expansion cannot. MEASURING casehead expansion using a caliper or mic can also lie to you, but loose primers are absolutely a sign of too much pressure. As is the mark of the ejector on the casehead.


BTW..... DESTROY THIS BRASS!!! Crimp the neck, wrap masking tape around it with a note, do something to keep from using it. Later you may decide that a case "has one more firing in it" and load it up for a throwaway varmint round but for now, CHUCK IT!!!


Keep scrupulous notes every day, including temp. Powder is temperature sensitive. Elevated temp equals elevated pressure, never forget this.


Remember to GREASE three spots on your bolt very 25rds or so:
-Grease the bolt lugs.
-Grease the primary extraction cam and
-Grease the cocking ramp under the bolt.


When you're working up loads and reloading for effect you will fire A LOT....... and you WILL gall your bolt lugs or one of the cams if you don't form the habit NOW! :)


Handled correctly reloading is safer than golf, certainly more safe than driving to church Sunday morning.....

Have fun.

Be safe.

Ask lots of questions, the ONLY dumb question is THE ONE YOU DON'T ASK!!!

:)

al
 
Excellent advice from Larry and Alinwa . In two posts you have got the pressure indication subject laid out in a nice easy to understand way.
 
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