Muzzle Flush System

W

wnroscoe

New member
After much discussion I finally built a Muzzle Flush System. I made the rotary coupling from an air tool swivel joint and a piece of 2" aluminum bar stock I had. The aluminum bar stock was constructed to accommodate three main sizes of barrel, 1.250", 1" and .750". I connected the aluminum fitting to the swivel joint with 1/4" NPT threads. I'll connect the barrels via hose clamps and the appropriate size hose. All I need now is the oil/coolant, the reservoir and a catch pan for the oil/coolant to flow into when it leaves the barrel. Thanks to all.

William
 

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Reaming with Coolant..

William:

You are making the wisest decision you have ever made in your new gunsmithing career. Get your self a 5 gallon pale of Rustlic 255R and cut it 5:1 and you will not be displeased. It will last you the rest of your career if you don't blow a seal or develope a leak.
Rustystud
 
You may want to rethink your fluid routing a little.
I think that you will want to move your filter to your pump suction line to protect your gear pump from damaging debris and I don’t think that your water filter is rated for the pressure that you will need to run to flush smaller caliber reamers.
I disagree with using water soluble fluid for chamber reaming. I started with water soluble and switched to oil and will not go back. Some will tell you to mix your soluble rich or thick. The problem is that the water in the mix will concentrate at the cutting edge and you loose the lubricity, heat dissipation, and anti gall protection. If you are going to mix your soluble rich enough to overcome this you may as well use oil.
Don’t forget to notch your bushing retainer screw to let fluid pass in higher volume.
Good luck.
Scott
 
Some differences in my setup,

I used plastic (Delrin, etc.) for the hose to barrel adapters and have ended up with a bunch of them. I try to filter out most of the metal chips with rare-earth and cow magnets on the underside of the oil catch chute that I built to be below the reamer. The oil then goes into a two chamber resevior that hopefully allows chips to settle out in the first chamber.
I don't think a cartridge type filter will work on the suction side, you have less than one atmosphere of pressure pushing the oil through the filter. It sure is not the norm on industrial/logging/farming equipment systems that I have seen.
The biggest problem that I have had has been in getting a working ramp/chute for the used oil to travel to a bread pan (with more magnets on the bottom and sides) before going through an overflow hose and back to the oil tanks. It would have been a lot easier to run with the oil going into the chip pan but I don't do heavy, oil flow maching on my 14-42 lathe.
 
William,
What are the specs on the pump motor and pump? Capacity, pressure output, hp, etc...

Greg
 
I use a cartridge type fuel filter between my reservoir's centrifugal sump pump and the gear driven high pressure pump to protect the gear driven pump. I use a large screw on type hydraulic filter I got from MSC to filter the oil before it goes to the barrel. I also plumbed in a cheap oil pressure gauge at the outlet of the large filter to keep from blowing the seal on the barrel. Life is a lot less exciting once I found out that about 60 psi works best with no danger of getting an oil bath.
 
My Flush system

I believe the picture will be self explainatory.

Tank is a 15 gallon barrel.

3/4 hp gear gear head pump with bypass.

Return line with ball valve

Line with ball valve to filter, gauge and rotary coupler.

Whole house water filter 2 micron.

125 psi gauge

18 inches of flexible hydrolic line with two swivel conectors.

1 Duff Norton Rotary Coupler.

4 hose clamps and a assortment of heater hose pieces.

Rustystud
 

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Supplementing my coolant.

WILLIAM AND OTHERS:

I bought 5 gallons of Rustlic 255R about 5 years ago. I have recycled the same coolant for the 5 years. My reservoir is a 15 gallon barrel. Over the years I have spilled a little hear and there. I still had about 15 gallons left in a 55 gallon drum to use to replinish my original reservoir. Yesterday, I topped off my reservoir with about 6 gallons on new coolant from the premix, I had. I could tell a difference in the lubricity both in the reaming and on my arms. After chambering two barrels my hands and arms felt sticky and greasy. Since reamer wear is a concern I may change out my coolant yearly from here on. I chamber 300 barrels a year and make dies using my flush system. I may have been expecting too much from my coolant. Even though I have not had any problems. Yesterday, I chambered to barrels with a new PT&G piloted reamer. With 30 psi of coolant the reamer cut as fast as I could advance it with the hand wheel. For all but the last .100 I cut .100 and flushed, backing out .100 then reengaging. I had the reamer set .073 short with a Micrometer Adjustable Reamer Stop. When the reamer bottomed out. I reset the Micrometer Adjustable reamer Stop .074 and made 3 reams and flushes watching both the Micrometer Adjustable Reamer Stop and the dial on my handwheel. I stopped and blew out the chamber with air. Then inserted the Go gauge and screwed the action on the tenon. The bolt closed with just slight resistence. I removed the Go gauge and inserted the NoGo gauge. The bolt would not close. The whole process took about 10 minutes. It took me longer to setup and take down than to ream the chamber.

As for the post about pluming the filter before the pump. If your filter gets stopped up then the pump can run dry and burn up. I have magnets in my catch pan. I have a screen to filter out any larger particles. My intake pipe is off the bottom of my barrel by a foot. My 2. micron whole house water filter is clear and I can see a chips building up on the filter. With five years of chambering there is about two inches of chips built up in the filter. I think I will change my filter next week.

Another design change is that I am going to put another T with a ball valve and a air hose quick connect in the output line. This is so when I cut off the lathe, and withdraw the reamer I can blow out the coolant in line.

Just thought I would share that with you.

I read on another post somewhere about putting the magnets on the outside of the catch pan. Then when you clean the catch pan just remove the magnets and the chips will be easily cleaned up. Currently I have been wearing gloves and removing the chips from the magnet directly. This is a timely process and often I get chips in my fingers. Thanks to who ever made that post.

Rustystud
 
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Rustystud,

Thanks for sharing your process with us.

A couple of questions;

Does the rustlick need to be diluted? I read a post somewhere where a fellow used to dilute, but was concerned about lubricity at the tool surface, so he quit diluting, and figured he was better off. What's your take on this?

Are you concerned with bacterial illness problems in your coming in contact (touching, breathing) with your solution? This would include residual contact with the equipment after the fact.

Where do you purchase the 255R?

Thank you much
longshooter
 
On the issue of the danger of burning up the high pressure pump due to a clogged filter between the sump pump and the gear type high pressure pump.

I always start by using the sump pump to purge all the air from the system before turning on the high pressure pump to prevent spitting air/oil under pressure. Any restriction in the filter between the two pumps is readily detected by noting the flow past the reamer with the low pressure centrifugal sump pump. I think not running a filter is the much greater risk for damage to the pressure pump. A simple 3/8" inlet/outlet canister type fuel filter is cheap insurance.
 
Rustlic 255R

I talked with the engineers with Rustlic they are who recomended this product. It is an extreme pressure, synthetic with clorine coolant lubricant. I cut mine with distilled water and have had no bacteria problems. They recomended cutting it 10:1, 20:1 or 30:1. I can tell you it cleans up everything it touches including me. My black iron pipes have cause the color to change from pure white to cream color.

I cut it 1:1 and found out how they make GOJO. I cut mine then to 3:1 and then again to 5:1.

I have cut hundreds of 308, 6mmBRX, 223, 6.5 X .284, 300WSM, etc chambers with little or no significant tool wear.
Rustystud
 
Rustlick 255R

I bought mine from MSC or ordered it direct from Rustlick. It came in five gallon bucket. If memory serves me correctly it cost about $90.00 and with shipping it was about $125.00.
Rustystud
 
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