muzzle break on a .338 ultra magnum

T

tillroot1

Member
I purchased a model 700 in a .338 ultra magnum, my question is what opinions on muzzle breaks for that rifle, I have two concerns, one being ports on the bottom if shooting off a bi-pod blowing dirt and rocks up and around me, the other is how effective a break will be on a case that big. its a standard sporter with a 26" barrel. thank you for your opinions.


Ron Tilley
 
KDF Break. Very effective. I'm shooting a 300 Tommahawk,300 RUM Improved with a 240SMK and it kicks way less than my 25-06. Your gonna have to deal with the dirt and stones. If your shooting varmints lay down a towel before you shoot. I know it's a little large for varmints but sometimes one can't help himself. You certainly wouldn't want to maime a groundhog:)
 
I've had KDF's, Vais's, and Harrel's on various barrels.

So far the new leader is Holland's. I have two, and will get another.

Al
 
They do make muzzle BRAKES for varmint rifles that do not have ports on the bottom of the barrel so they don't kick up dust when shooting off the bi-pod. Try searching for " muzzle brake" :)
 
For a 338 Ultra I would be concerned with brake efficiency. Brakes like JP Enterprises would have the best efficiency. You need large baffles plates with at least two of them. Holland would be another but with slightly less efficiency. There is also debate about keeping brake vents symetrical. So if you don't have vents on the bottom, don't have them on the top either. Vias brakes have holes in the front to help relief the report (noise) but they are going to loose efficiency in doing so. One of the best ways to visually judge a brake is to look at a photo of the gases just leaving the barrel. The more gas you see trailing the bullet (like with no brake) the less efficient it is going to be. The two key components will be 1) how much gas is vented to the sides and 2) how much surface area the high pressure released gas can catch to push the barrel forward. Brake technology peaked during WWII as we see the classic reverse curve double baffle brakes.
 
Check out the Badger Ordinance Brake or one marketed by Shawn Carlock at Defensive Edge. That style of brake is probably what you're after.
 
.338 RUM Muzzle Brake

Two words, Badger Thruster.

This isn't exactly a factory rifle but it was my solution when I built my .338 RUM:

http://www.rdprecision.net/gallery/BYRON2.JPG

http://www.rdprecision.net/gallery/BYRON3.JPG

No ports on the bottom and no ports on the top either. I would say my recoil is down to .30-06 class. Five shots prone with my factory weight barrel and stock made me not want to shoot it any more. With the heavier barrel and muzzle brake it's now fun to shoot.
 
Which muzzle brake

I have a 300 Weatherby Magnum that I would like to install a muzzle brake on. The muzzle measure .550 and I looked at the muzzle brakes with 1/2 x 28 TPI and the ones with 7/16 x 28TPI and I am not sure I can use those on the .550 muzzle diameter. What is the smallest diameter I should thread the 30 caliber barrel , I figured the 7/16 x 28 would not leave enough barrel wall with this caliber. Any info regarding this will be appreciated. T.I.A.
Rolandr
 
ask for reasons why

From what I've gathered in making the investment is that you want to reduce recoil, and you are not to concerned about the noise. So I would want the reasons why one is better than another. I don't know all the science about them but there is some. You definitely want to make sure that most of the gasses are exiting at a 90 to 85 degree angle from the muzzle. I'm sure that there are more experienced eyes who could tell you more. For my 300 Tejas (ultra improved) I chose to go with the one Brad Stair sales out of West Haven,UT. Break was designed with the use of high speed cameras and a lot of R&D.
 
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