Molly Bullet Question

P

Patrick R

Guest
For those who molly their own bullets.

What brand do you use & how do you apply it?
 
Midway has or had a kit, that's what I use. The main thing is clean the bullets good to remove the lubricant. I use alcahol and let them dry good( I lay them out on a towel in the sun and leave them for a day) and put them in a vibratory tumbler with moly and shot for an hour or so then take them out and wipe off the excess.
 
As Steve said, possibly the most important thing is to get the bullets clean. I use acetone or white gas, whichever is at hand. I don't use moly anymore, but I apply WS2 the same way. I use a four sided pasta jar on a small tumbler. I fill the jar about one third full of bullets and put in a medium screw driver blade of WS2. Turn it on and come back in a couple of hours. I dump the coated bullets into an old sock and roll them back and forth for maybe thirty seconds to remove the excess and they are good to go.

Rick
 
Greyfox said:
As Steve said, possibly the most important thing is to get the bullets clean. I use acetone or white gas, whichever is at hand. I don't use moly anymore, but I apply WS2 the same way. I use a four sided pasta jar on a small tumbler. I fill the jar about one third full of bullets and put in a medium screw driver blade of WS2. Turn it on and come back in a couple of hours. I dump the coated bullets into an old sock and roll them back and forth for maybe thirty seconds to remove the excess and they are good to go.

Rick
Click to expand...
the WS2 referred to is Tungsten Disulfide. The only time it was availabe commercially to the shooting community it was called DanZac.

And Rick, you are over tumbling your bullets w/ Danzac. It only takes about 20 minutes to get the maximum coating you will ever get. Been doing it for about 10 years now. All I ever shoot. You are not "hurting" anything, but you are wasting time and energy.
 
David Halblom said:
the WS2 referred to is Tungsten Disulfide. The only time it was availabe commercially to the shooting community it was called DanZac.

And Rick, you are over tumbling your bullets w/ Danzac. It only takes about 20 minutes to get the maximum coating you will ever get. Been doing it for about 10 years now. All I ever shoot. You are not "hurting" anything, but you are wasting time and energy.
Click to expand...

David,
I tend to agree on the over tumbling, but if I leave them in longer, they tend to polish up nicely and I have less dust to clean. You can still get WS2 from a couple of places, but you generally have to get a larger quantity. I use the stuff on everything I shoot. Prairie dogs love it :)
Rick
 
Moly coating bullets

Keep in mind several things:
Moly coating produces a build-up on the bullets, and on the bore. This is usually accompanied by the necessity to use a special bore cleaning process, as well as a "re-fouling" process after cleaning...........5 to 10 shots to get the thing to settle in.
Moly has it's advantages, but the disadvantages often outweigh the positives. Especially if you don't keep up on a regimen to keep it in control.

As an ex-bullet maker who went thru a LOT of research and testing, there are things you can do to find some middle ground.

Moly your bullets as normal, but then tumble them in clean rags to remove MOST of the moly. Some moly will remain in the pores of the jacket and give you the advantages of moly coating, but not the disadvantages of the bore build-up. I.E. you are removing the majority of the coating and the bullets will look Tarnished, not bright and shiny.
Also, the normal "naked" bullet cleaning can be used.
Secondly, the additional tumbling to remove the moly has a tendency to shot peen the bullets...................or stress relieve them and make them more round. Kinda like rapping the lid of a pickle jar with a knife handle to make it easier to remove.
Shot of any kind, and wax are not necessary.
Just moly by tumbling, remove moly by tumbling and shoot like normal.
Hope this helps.
Bryan
 
Patrick R said:
For those who molly their own bullets.

What brand do you use & how do you apply it?
Click to expand...

Patrick i just read a very interesting article on Varmit Al's web site. It does refer to several sources for moly with phone numbers and several charts. If you haven't read it it seems to be a great source. It is the last couple of paragraphs at the bottom of the page. joe

http://varmintal.com/arelo.htm
 
When applying the moly yourself can you get them as uniformly coated as buying factory pre-mollyed bullets like Sierra's or Amax's?
 
evenly coating

Moly has to be applied by a tumbiling process..........at home or commercial. I DO NOT recommend a vibratory tumbler, rather use the rotary tumbler like the Thumblers Tumbler with the bullets and moly in a glass qt. pickle jar and the inside of the tumbler padded with rags to keep the jar from breaking. It is also a good idea to scuff the inside of the jar in a line from top to bottom with a dremel tool or such and epoxy a 1/4" wooden dowel to it to make sure the bullets actually tumble and not just slide around.
Make sure the bullets have been rinsed with acetone or fast drying laquer thinner .......and thoroughly dried before coating, and remember, a little moly goes a long way. You don't want excess moly plugging the bullet's meplate! Make sure the jar is cleaned with spray break cleaner (including the lid) before each batch.
Hope this helps
ba
 
inspite of things posted here, the only company that is the largest world wide marketer of moly bullets and ammunition is also the only company to publish thier findings on the moly coating advantages.
thier published report( do some sesrching) clearly states the aprox 25% of the benefits come directly form the application of WAX.

skipping the step does not negate all the benefits, bu it does obviosuly reduce them.

if you choose to use a moly process, you must also learn how to properly clean a moly'd bbl.
no wire brushes.
you are trying to evenly coat the bbl from one end to the other with moly....using a metal brush removes/destroys part of the coating.
chemicals are your friend...
patches and chemicals...no metal brushes.
two wet patches of a carbon cleaner, two dry patches, two wet with your favorite copper remover , let soak, and then a dry patch to check for copper. repeat the copper portion till clean.
failure to remove carbon will allow large build ups in the throat and bbl.and deterioration of accuracy.

if you currently have a load that works , do not expect it to work with moly.....you will need to work up a new load. moly bullets are "slicker" less intial drag, resulting in lower pressure than the same load with a neked bullet. expect to up the powder a bit to get back to where you were...

tumbling (rotarywith shot)is the best method for coating....but i have done it in a vibrator case cleaner and it works.....i currently use a sidewinder from rcbs for both moly and bn.

mike in co
 
I always thought about just tossing a padded bottle in a landry dryer with a 1/2 load .

Has anyone done this?

Glenn:)
 
me thinks he has never seen moly powder floating in the air......just room currents moving it about......
and he wants to add a DRYER to the equation......
glenn...only if you are looking for a divorce.......

mike in co
 
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