Marking a Barrel

Apollo

Apollo

Jason Stanley
I would assume this can be done, but have no idea who to contact or how much? I want to be able to "mark" my barrel roughly 2-3" from the muzzle. I use a Beggs tuner and now I have a strip of paper, that was very carefully marked, taped around my barrel so that I can tell when the tuner is on the 1 o'clock, 5 o'clock 8 o'clock, etc. (12 would be straight up on the top of the barrel - 6 would be straight down on the bottom of the barrel, etc) When I get a new barrel, is there anyway to actually mark the barrel like my piece of paper?.....and make it look nice.

Franics - I do own a Dremel. Should I just give it hell? "Line -er up Vern......"

Stanley
 
Apollo said:
I would assume this can be done, but have no idea who to contact or how much? I want to be able to "mark" my barrel roughly 2-3" from the muzzle. I use a Beggs tuner and now I have a strip of paper, that was very carefully marked, taped around my barrel so that I can tell when the tuner is on the 1 o'clock, 5 o'clock 8 o'clock, etc. (12 would be straight up on the top of the barrel - 6 would be straight down on the bottom of the barrel, etc) When I get a new barrel, is there anyway to actually mark the barrel like my piece of paper?.....and make it look nice.

Franics - I do own a Dremel. Should I just give it hell? "Line -er up Vern......"

Stanley
Click to expand...




Stanley, I have never found it necessary or even desirable to make more than one mark on the Beggs tuner and none on the barrel. You will notice there is a small 'O' on one of the rings of the tuner. This should be screwed onto the muzzle first, with the 'O' facing rearward so the shooter can see it while seated at the bench. This 'O' simply identifies the hole that is used as the master. To zero the tuner, loosen the rings with the two 5/32" tommy bars and screw the rear ring in, toward the breech all the way to the end of the threads and then back it off sufficiently to place the mark in the 12:00 o'clock position. This is where we always start for the first match of the day.

Use clock positions to adjust the tuner; i.e., 12:00 1:30, 3:00, 7:30 and so on. Using a tommy bar in the master hole to aid in positioning you can easily position the tuner within two or three degrees of the right spot. It's not critical and eyeballing it is more than accurate enough. Use eight clock positions instead of twelve; i.e., 1:30, 3:00, 3:30 and so on. Some people like to see micrometer graduations on their tuners but I believe in keeping things simple. :p

Gene Beggs
 
Thanks guys for responding.
Gene, I do agree with you that I do not have to be precise down to the 15 min intervals -however my spreadsheet is already built, so I don't want to change it. But, I do like the piece of mind knowing that if it says to be at 4:30 that I am at 4:30 -even though if I set it between 3:45-5:15 I will be ok. This is where the marks on the barrel come in. I do have 1 red line on my tuner that I match up. Francis, I will call you some snowy day and we can talk about how you get all your lines to look nice (and no....I am not going to take a dremel to my barrel - are you crazy?) but a question - why do you put the clocknumbes on your tuner - when the tuner moves?
 
Jason,

It's easier to number each tuner and just have a top dead center mark on the barrel as an indication. Compare Lambert's tuner (STE) to Beggs' tuner. Since the tuner is moving and the barrel is stationary, the clock numbers on the tuner should be in reverse order. This way an adjustment from 4 o clock to 3 oclock is the right direction for mussle memory.

Paul
 
Thanks Paul. I just got off the phone with your papa (it is snowing here) and he set me straight. I thought he was putting clock numbers on both the barrel and tuner. My bad. Here is what mine looks like. Angle is weird - it is set at 12:45. I just want to replace the lines on the paper with lines on the barrel. This will work for now.

Stanley
 

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I actually took these pics in an attemp to show the crown I like. Along with the crown came the pics of the marks I use with my tuner. No special technology there, the main point to make is that I go to the line with an "Idea" of where my tuner needs to be set and sighters are used to do final tuning and twisting. Be sure and leave 30 seconds for the record string.

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Paul
 
Wicked cool!!! I've actually got an action and several barrels marked this way and have always wondered how it was done.

gonna' hafta' get me one a' these

al
 
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