Lother Walther stainless barrel. No where near as bad I heard

M

M.D.Spencer

New member
A little stringy. So I feed it harder. 700Rpm's @ .009 per/rev. Chambers nice and leaves a good finish. Did a .223 Rem. Straight as a arrow. Put it be between Bench centers and their was only .001" total run out!

Draw back! Took so darn long to get it!

Mark
 
I have brown and sharpe Bench centers. Maybe I should take a picture. Or video.... If your not familiar with such an item I will take a picture and post it.
 
if you are doing interior runout based on od surface....well bored/rifle holes dont go in a straight line.........

so yes please show us your set up...

mike in co
 
He is setting it up with centers on each end. Bore can be doing all kinds of things, but he is only indicating runout from the bore to OD. If he cut the barrel in pieces and machined new centers, it would probably have more runout. If they turned the OD between the centers it should have very little runout on each end. Doesn't necessarily mean the bore is straight.
Butch
 
If he cut the barrel in pieces and machined new centers, it would probably have more runout.
Click to expand...
I know you guys believe in testing the quality of your work, but shouldn't that testing be non-destructive?
 
Come on Charles, I just suggested if it had a crooked bore it would show up doing this. Think about this. Take a barrel with a lot of runout on each end. With a good center machined in each end and each end cleaned up when is between centers, it will show none or very very little runout on both ends.
Hopefully you can see now that a barrel with good centers in each end and turned between centers will show very little if any runout. It does not necessarily mean the bore is straight.
Butch
 
The guy that knew (knows?) the most about this is a fellow named John Illum, who used to buy top grade uncontoured rifle blanks and cut them in half to make two bolt action metallic silouette pistol barrels. He told me that it was not uncommon to find bores .020 to .030 off center from the OD, in the middle, and that cut barrels tended to be better in that respect. I have also been told, more than once, of barrels that were very crooked that shot well.
 
I did one not too long ago. It's different for sure. You call it stringy, I call it gummy. I did my usual drill and bore, then went in with the reamer (supplied by owner, not mine, but new). Once I got to where I was at the shoulder and taking full reamer cuts, I took light cuts and would look at how the cut looked. I started trying different oils and feeds.

A long time ago, LW or Blackstar had a link on their website of what to use on their barrels. It was a 3 part mix, dark cutting oil, moly D and tapmatic. I used it, and it was so-so. I tried straight dark oil, about the same, tried a mix with trans fluid, seemed a bit better.

What I ended up doing, was kick up the rpm's, used the trans/dark oil mix, but only advanced about .010 per cut, then cleaned. I think the build up doesn't move along down the reamer like most steels, and like I said, it's gummy. So a light cut, higher rpm and a good oil will give a good finish.
 
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