lets talk stock rem 700 triggers

M

mike in co

Guest
my rifle is left hand, but other than that lets talk about the three adjusting screws on the trigger assy.

from the left side of the trigger assy, there is :
1)a screw on the front face of the assembly...this is ?????
2) a screw down on the botton.......by the trigger itself..it is ???
3) a screw on the back of the trigger assy(sealed)...it is ???

anything special i need to know ?

would like to adjust to aprox 2 lb...safely....


thanks
mike in co
 
I don't know about the new ones, but the regular ones have been impossible for me to get down to 2 pounds. My most recent one is about 2lb 10 oz and that is the lowest I can go safely. Maybe others have different experience. To go lower, I would have to grind apart the rivets and replace springs and probably hone the sear. Doesn't seem worth it to me when I can just buy a better one.
 
I'd sure vote for dropping in a Timney. I just bought a Remington 700 Police and the new X-Mark Pro trigger on it was not very impressive. I dropped a Timney in in 15 minutes and man, it was worth every penny. I adjusted it down to about 1.75 pounds )simply by turning one allen screw) and it's a joy to use.

DeWayne
 
if you manage to get a factory remington trigger down to 2# without dissassembling it, its going to be verrrryyyyy creepy! to minimize felt creep keep it 2.5# or heavier (xmark or old trigger), better yet get an aftermarket trigger.
 
Remington Trigger Adjustments
14 May 2000
By Paul "Pablito" Coburn

First, the disclaimer
In the U.S.A., we live in a litigious society, and for those of you who live in Rio Linda, that means fools will do really stupid crap, and then sue someone else, because "It's their fault, they made me do it!". For those of you that don't know what you're doing... STAY AWAY FROM TRIGGERS... you can hurt someone (usually someone else!)
Adjusting triggers is something that was once an expected job by the owner of a new gun, just like adjusting the seats in your new car.
But Remington (because of many lawsuits) takes a very dim view of adjusting their triggers... it's number "1" under Remington's "Felony list of no-no's".
Be advised, if you adjust the trigger, and send the gun back to Remington (in the USA) for repairs, they will charge you for a new trigger (they will NOT re-adjust the old one).
.. and finely, your mileage may vary according to road conditions. If you are new at guns, and lack experience to do internal minor repairs and parts replacement... this may not be for you. Do not do the following unless you are skilled enough to work on guns, and responsible enough to handle them safely. I'm presenting this information as "Information Only"... it is SOLELY your decision whether you have the skill and ability to use this information.
If you have an accident, it means that you weren't skilled enough, or responsible enough, so you shouldn't have done the following, so it's not my fault, neither Sniper Country's!

Now on to the details
The Remington triggers are very good, except they come with a built in lawyer, and he weighs about 9 or 10 pounds.
You will need a bit of good quality gun oil (CLP or equivalent), and a set of small screwdrivers, and some white or red nail polish.
Remove the barreled action from the stock.
Looking at the gun and trigger so the safety is up, and the barrel is pointing to your right... the front of the trigger is to your right...

The three screws are as follows...
• On your right, (the front of the trigger) the top screw, near the action, is over travel...
• The bottom screw is spring tension...
• On your left side, (the back of the trigger) is the engagement screw.
First, break the white "Seals of God" and screw the three screws out enough so that you see several threads.
They may be hard at first, but they are NOT staked in place. The screws and trigger body are carbon steel, and may be rusted, or they may have a sealant on them. Just break them free. Drop a teeny bit of oil on the threads. Run the screws in and out several times until the oil is in the threads, and they turn freely.
OK, now down to business.
Back out the spring tension screw out until there is just enough pressure to keep the trigger forward, but it's very light (4 or 5 oz's) and easy to move.
Back out the engagement screw, (the single screw on the left) and the over-travel screw (the upper screw on your right) out, so there's play to adjust.
Close the bolt on a cocked pin (don't pull the trigger) and VERY SLOWLY turn the engagement screw (on your left) in until the firing pin drops. Back it out about 1/3 to 1/2 of a turn. With the firing pin down, you should now feel the trigger wobble back and forth if you pull it because there is excessive over travel.
Because the back surface of the trigger is NOT undercut, you have to adjust over-travel with the pin "down".
Now, with the firing pin in the "fired" position, screw in the over-travel screw until it "just touches" the trigger lightly, preventing the trigger from moving... back out the over travel screw 1/4 turn. Pulling the trigger now, (with the pin "down") you should feel just the "slightest" free movement.
Now turn in the spring tension screw (lower right) to a pull that you like... I'd strongly suggest a good trigger pull gauge, instead of guessing.
Cock the pin and try it... it should break like glass.
Check by:
• Slam the bolt closed a dozen times, check to see if the pin dropped each time. If the pin drops, back out the engagement screw 1/4 turn, and do again.
• Cock the pin, set the safety, pull the trigger, release the trigger, and release the safety, a dozen times... if the pin drops, increase the spring tension (shouldn't be necessary, unless you're down around 10-15 oz's, and this trigger is not reliable at that light a pull.
Put white or red nail polish on the screws. Let dry, and put another coat on it again, and again.
There will be no "take up slack", this is a single stage trigger, and can't be adjusted to act like a two stage.
These triggers are easily capable of going to 24-26 oz's, and they keep the setting year after year, and I've never had to re-adjust one.
 
The small spring that is under one of the front adjustment screws, the spring that pushes against the "connector", has been made from different diameter wires, over the years. The springs were made from heavier wire in more recent years than they were in the more distant past.
Heavier wire springs greatly increase the spring rate and raise the minimum setting. Lighter wire springs can be adusted to a lower minimum. Friction between the pins and pin holes and internal moving parts rubbing against the side plates also contribute to the minimum weight attainable. Cutting the length of the spring increaces the spring rate and should never be done.
If you are not comfortable and have no experience working with small, intricate mechanisms you are probably better off replacing the trigger with a Shilen. If you do go beyond adjusting screws please be very careful and realize that you can make a trigger very dangerous in a lot of ways.

Jay, Idaho
 
Mike in co
If you have a x-mark trigger, adjust it to the trash can, get a timney or shilen, if your dead set on adjusting your old style rem trigger find a mentor that KNOWS triggers, REMEMBER IT'S ONLY A SLIGHT DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A TRIGGER JOB AND A ACCIDENT WAITING TO HAPPEN, when you do a trigger job there's a lot more than turning allen screws,(ie the sear ingagement, travel, over travel,,,,,,,, etc)
Again my advise is 1)a replacement trigger, 2) a trigger job by a professional gunsmith, hell my life's worth $25-$75 bucks to me anyway, 3) a trigger job by a mentor that know's triggers, and not some guy that "filed down some parts and adjusted his remchester back in 63"
 
building myself and on a tight budget....
300 win mag 1000yd,


mike in co
 
Mike, I will bring an extra Rem Trigger to the Denver Gun Show next weekend. You guys are forgetting Neal Jones. He used to redo my triggers to 1 lb for $40.00. Probably a bit more now.

Mike, My tables are on the end of row H next to the south wall. There is a electrical room sticking out from the south wall at the end of row H.

Don Carper
 
thanks for the offer..is it a leftie ??
niel is down in the springs ...right ?
i dont normally got to the collectors show.....have a free pass...but not sure if i'm going . i have a match sat am and another on sunday am.


mike in co
 
Mike, Don't know if you can change the safwty to the other side or not. My spare trigger is right handed. Neal Jones advertises in Precission Shooting. I think he is in Pennsylvania.

Don
 
thanks for the offer...i do have two lefties.....
mike in co
 
NJ said he never converted...........

Remingtons to three lever or 2oz., as one could always buy a better example. I did (last week) install a Shilen hunter on a 700VLS and for a field gun it was excellent. You get two new pins which are the proper diameter so there's no side to side slop, its well made and with some slight adjustments, it became just what that hunter wanted; under $100 from Brownell's.;)

Also Mike, if you are going to use it on the range, you're probably not going to use the safety, so, you wouldn't have to worry about left/right side, and you could use either the hunter or the competition Shilen. Check it out, w/Brownell's, as long as you don't run over it:D, they'll take it back.:) And you can always roll a dime alongside the bolt, to activate the bolt stop when removing the bolt from the receiver.
 
Wolff springs makes a replacement lighter trigger return spring for the rem 700-721-722 price is around $16.99 for 10 This is much better than trying to find the right size spring and cutting to fit. I don't try to go much lower than 3-3&1/2 lbs on a hunting rifle That remington brochure must be from the 60's it's been a long time since remington admitted you could adjust the trigger
 
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