Lee .270 sizing die

E

Elgriton

Guest
I am new to reloading and I full length resized some .270 winchester cases using a Lee classic single stage press and Lee dies. The case shoulder looks kind of rough after sizing. I used case lube and followed the directions. Do any of you have close-up pics of rifle cartridges that have resized that I can use as a guide. Is there anyway to polish the inside of the die, has anyone tried? The tech at Lee said that they do not polish that area of the die so as to not affect head space. :confused:
 
When you say rough I assume you mean marked, some areas are scuffed looking. Dented shoulders would be another story, to much lube.

If a full length die is marking case shoulders badly enough for you to ask about it I'd guess you are pushing the shoulders back to far and the force needed to do that is making some roughness in the die mark the shoulders.

I'd learn how to set the die up for proper shoulder bump and ignore any minor shoulder marks that may result from case sizing.

Winding the die down until it hit's the shellholder is usually what die instructions will say but could easily be creating far more headspace than desirable.

Bryce
 
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I just started reloading and one thing I've learned from reading three or more books is that Lee's instructions for setting up the die is different than everyone else's.

Sierra Say's you don't ever screw the die down until it touches the shell holder, Lee says you screw it down another half turn and lock it!.

Since most of Lee's stuff is considered junk by serious reloaders, I would follow other reloading manuals recommendations.



Rich
 
Any manufacturers instructions on setting up a full length die are going to be a wild ar$e guess !!

Ideally you will need to learn how to measure the actual shoulder bump and the headspace created and size the case to suit the chamber.

The die makers will have no idea what chamber length your rifle will have and any instruction that they give in tems of "touch the shellholder" or "touch and back out half a turn" or "touch and go in half a turn" may be miles off the mark. Remember when talking headspace measurements 6 - 10 thou is a lot, no blanket instruction can get you as close as you ought to be without luck playing a part.

Some Lee stuff is junk, some is very good. Some makers produce gear miles better than some Lee gear but you will be paying for the difference as well. The biggest favour a Lee die user can do themselves is to bin the O ring type lock rings and put some others on that actually lock solid so you don't need to keep resetting the dies.
 
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AMEN about dumping the Lee "lock rings". Buy some RCBS lock rings that can be easily adjusted, but have a locking screw to keep them in place. Get some 7/8" ID O rings from the local hardware store in the plumbing department, install one under the lock ring on the sizing and seating die. Does the same thing and works better than the Lee setup IMHO.

There are two ways to set a full length die for your rifle. Either get a Stoney Point, now Hornady, headspace measuring set that fastens to a dial (or digital) caliper's blades, OR remove the firing pin from the rifle's bolt (assuming it's a bolt action) so that you can feel the bolt closing. With the first (best) follow the instructions and set head to shoulder measurement after sizing to ~0.003" less than the fired measurement. With the stripped bolt method adjust the sizing die so that the bolt closes with a slight amount of "feel" when it closes. Sizing the case more than that only shortens case life.

When you adjust the sizing die using the stripped bolt method turn it down until it touches the shellholder at the top of the press rams travel, back it off half to 3/4 turn, then lube and size a fired case. The case will probably not fit back into the rifle's chamber. Turn the die in ~1/8 turn, resize the case (a bit more lube on the case might be needed), and see if it fits into the chamber. Continue this operation until the cases fit into the chamber with the amount of feel that suits you. Depending on how sensitive your fingers are, you should be able to feel the seating cams on the bolt just engage. That's what you want. It's not necessary to tighten the lock screw on the lock ring until you've reached the final adjustment. After the die is adjusted and the lockring setscrew tightened, I make a mark on the lockring and line it up with a mark on the press - a Sharpie or sharp pointed paint pen in a light color works well for this.

Unless you have lube dents in the case shoulders severe marks on the shoulders are likely from oversizing the cases. FL sizing dies usually leave small shiny marks on the case in my experience anyway.
 
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