JB bore brite

J

jda sr

Guest
whats the difference between bore brite and bore cleaner
Sinclair has both but doesn't tell what they are good for
 
I don't want to start a nonsense thread about whether or not to use JB but if you are intending to get a "mirror" like finish to your bore with the Bore Brite like the advertising talks about I'd go carefully !

All I'll say was that I had a problematic barrel that I polished the heck out of with normal JB, far more than should ever be done in the course of normal cleaning. The net result was that polished bore picked up fouling so badly that after about 20 rounds I could push a dry patch through it and actually push out shards of jacket fouling on the patch. Didn't matter to me as I was doing a "make or break" final assault on the problem barrel and it broke it !!

I suspect that custom barrel makers stop their lapping at a medium grit finish for a reason rather than aim for a bright polish internally !!

Bryce
 
Tony Boyer on the use of J-B Bore Cleaner ...

Here is what Tony Boyer had to say about J-B Bore Cleaner in The Benchrest Shooting Primer, ON THE TOPIC OF BARRELS, page 349:

"I personally believe in using JB Bore Cleaner...and I'm fully aware that this is a controversial subject, on which some shooters have been known to become agitated (or worse). I use it after every yardage. Three to five tight fitting patches with JB will get the powder fouling out. We have very little copper problems with Shilen barrels when I use JB, and clean as I've described above. I do a full 'cleaning' before I use JB and also after I use JB, to make certain that I've got all the JB out of the barrel."
 
Abintx

I am not sure if that was a rebuttle to my comments. If it was please note, just for clarity.

Mr Boyer is talking about using 3 - 5 patches at the end of a yardage.

I was referring to really getting stuck into the barrel with the view to actually polishing the finish, like a "mirror".

My comments were simply because the Bore Brite version of JB seems to condone the idea of a mirror like polish to the bore, stops picking up fouling apparently.

If somebody want to mirror polish the inside of the barrel that is their call, my experience was it was a very poor idea.

Bryce
 
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Bryce

My comments were for jda sr who asked what the JB "cleaner" was good for in his opening thread. Now he knows what it's good for and that Tony Boyer endorses its' use. Art
 
JB Bore Brite

Reading any advertisement requires some degree of common sense, with no disrespect to the original poster. Regular use of JB or JB Bore Brite will cut through most of the carbon in the throat area. What is regular use? In my case, after approx. every 50 rds., as dictated by a borescope. My regular cleaning regimen is after every 20 rds. for a match grade barrel. When the borescope reveals carbon beginning to build up in the throat area, I use regular JB first on round felts that fit the bore perfectly. Short stroke the throat area. Then a round or two of JB Bore Brite, short stroking the throat area. A thorough cleaning with solvent to remove any JB, wet patch of Lock EEze, and allowed to dry. Never try to achieve a mirror like finish in a bore. It's a rifle barrel, not a camera lense!
Chino69
 
Cleaning with the "pastes"

One note for new shooters who are looking at cleaning with the so called "pastes". First off, the abrasives are very soft, chalk type materials. These are not the harder, metal removal, materials like aluminum oxide or the harder and embedding silicon carbides. (Silicon carbide is hard enough to actually embed in most steels. You may know this type abrasive better as Clover Brand valve lapping compound).

The cleaning regimen of a match quality barrel is more of an art than a science. The cleaning steps are much dependent on factors such as powder type and loading of that powder type. eg V133 low pressure loads will build up faster than top of the window loads.

The pastes can be used two ways. The intermediate cleaning is done using a patch embedded with the paste. This is preceded by using a good solvent and brushing. It is followed by "washing" the residue out with more solvent wetted patches, followed by dry patches, and finally a lube agent to take away the dryness. Good lube agents can be thin gun oils, Kroil, NAPA Lock EEz, or Stan Buchtels colloidal graphite called Graphoil.

The second method of using pastes, and a much more aggressive process, is by using a nylon brush with some paste on the bristles and short-stroking as you scrub down the barrel. Again, precede and follow with solvent, patches and oil.

As to the products, the JB's have been around for some time. If they were harmful we would have already heard about it. Another great product is Iosso. It comes in a tube and contains a slight amount of copper remover in addition its abrasives. Iosso also makes nylon brushes designed just for the short-stroke cleaning mentioned above.
 
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Cleaning with pastes

To add to what Jerry said (above):

The idea in proper cleaning is not to get a mirror finish. The idea is to get rid of the carbon, primer and powder residue, without harming the barrel during the cleaning process. The other objective is to prevent the layering of fouling to the point of where more agressive methods of cleaning are required to remove the accumulated residue. A common sense regular regimen will minimize problems down the road.
Chino69
 
almost had another house fire {pi**ing contest}
i never mentioned lapping a barrel to a mirror finish
just wanted something a little more agressive than "montana extreme' to speed up copper fouling removal after extended firing
i got my question answered to my satisfaction
thankyou
noticed that brownells prices are considerably higher than sinclair strange, from the same owners
 
Strange pricing ? ...

Not at all. Many companies, even when owned by another, are treated as separate entities, with their own profit margins and pricing.
 
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