I know am going to get ripped, but..........

Herzo

New member
I am considering getting into F-class, but i have to wonder if i am kidding myself. The object is to get in CHEAP!!!

I have a very early Savage 110 Tactical in 30-06, 1:10 twist with a replacement trigger (8 oz) and still in the original spaghetti stock. It has proven to be a 3/4 M.O.A. rifle at 200 yards with 180 grain BTHPs ahead of Hodgden 4831.

I realize that this would put me into Open Class, but I shoot for the enjoyment rather than trying to impress others.

In that my choices of stocks are limited, I am considering installing a Richards laminated stock that I can pillar-bed this winter.

Does anyone have any experience with Richards stocks? http://www.rifle-stocks.com/target_style's.htm

I don't have any illusions, but would hope that I would end up with a decent long range rifle out of the exercise.

Do I have a chance?
 
I have a Richard's Microfit stock on my Factory Class Benchrest gun. The finished results are very good, but if you are not comfortable with woodworking, consider another stock. I ordered mine and had it direct shipped to my gunsmith for pillar bedding. He reported that the inletting was good and required a little final fitting - the barrel channel needed more. I had him leave the final finish for me and when I went to pick it up and saw it for the first time I was, rather shocked. My first impression was it looked like a landscape timber in the shape of a rifle stock. When I got it home and started sanding on it I quickly evolved to a 4" grinder with a 24 grit sanding pad on it. I removed, for the most part, over an inch of wood over most of the stock. I took the comb down an inch and a half (It was so high the bolt wouldn't open). I did run into one small void in the laminate while sanding but ended up sanding right past it to good wood anyway, so be aware it may happen. Overall I am very happy with the stock, just be prepared for way more than just "finish sanding". Good luck with the project and good shooting.
 
Thanks for the report Andy, I presume that you purchased either the Culbertson or one of the cheekpiece/thumbhole models. I am anticipating having to modify the stock for my personal taste and/or adjusting the scope height with higher (or lower) rings. In that my present stock is a mock-up of cardboard and tape, I have a feel for what I would like to have. It's always easier to remove material than add to it.
I'll try to get some information as to how high above the bore the comb is prior to ordering it.
 
Shoot what you have for a couple matches...

Go shoot F-Class just for fun a couple of times. Get you feet wet just shooting what you have then make some better informed decisions with the help of others who have been there and gotten their "T" shirt. There are many competetive shooters shooting Savages.
I have not been to a F class match that most everyone there would help you get started and show you what they are shooting. Most matches are lead with a practice match and many shooters will let you try their rifle for a couple shots.
Nat Lambeth
 
Regarding voids in the wood...... I useta' panic. I've more than once gone past where I wanted to be trying to get thru a void.

no more.

Just fill them in, couldn't be simpler. In fact, one of the tricks I've learned is to use cyanoacrylate (super glue) gel and a "hotshot" accelerator. You squirt the chrystal clear glue into the void, hit it with hotshot and you're sanding away 2 minutes later.

hth

al
 
Al, That's a very good trick especially if using some of the tinted laminates. The clear glue would blend right in much better than another filler. I had never heard of the accelerators before, makes me feel like I've been living in a cave. Andy
 
Find yourself a 112 BT stock, already has adjustable cheek piece and pillars from the factory, Gun parts had them at one time for $200.
 
I am considering getting into F-class, but i have to wonder if i am kidding myself. The object is to get in CHEAP!!!

I have a very early Savage 110 Tactical in 30-06, 1:10 twist with a replacement trigger (8 oz) and still in the original spaghetti stock. It has proven to be a 3/4 M.O.A. rifle at 200 yards with 180 grain BTHPs ahead of Hodgden 4831.

I realize that this would put me into Open Class, but I shoot for the enjoyment rather than trying to impress others.

That is pretty much what I did when I got started. (only about a year ago) I have a Rem 700 BDL in .30-06. Put it in a cheap Choate tactical stock, and got it to shoot a reliable 3/4 MOA with handloads and went for broke. Had a lot of fun!

Went ahead and built a Savage target action in 6br and now working on match loads for it. Can't wait!
 
What a coincidence ----- the Big Brown Truck delivered a Choate Ultimate Varmint Stock to my door today. :D I decided that rather than spending the same (or more) money and a lot of time in a piece of lumber, that the Choate would tell me what I needed to know.

Installation took all of 10 minutes - torqued the screws to 50#-in (per their recommendation) and spent the rest of the day watching it rain.

I'll probably want to play with the fit a little, but so far I am impressed.

I currently have a Nikon Buckmasters 6-18X mounted - I may want to change for a target scope in the future (say an 8-32X) but this should work well enough to see what I have at 200 yds.

Weight ended up at 13#
 
Last edited:
torqued the screws to 50#-in (per their recommendation)

Mine didn't want to shoot this tight. I used about 35in/lbs. Just a thought if you run into problems. YMMV
 
Shoot it in F open and see what you think. All you have to do to go F-tr is buy a pre-fit .308 barrel from Pac-Nor or SSS and screw it on.
 
Al, you just hit on the woodworkers secret. You can fix many a crack, void, chip, or hole with a little CA, matching sanding dust, and the good old accelerator. And don't forget that CA comes in 3 thicknesses; water thin for cracks, and either medium or gel for filling larger voids. For larger holes, pack them with sawdust or sanding dust then wet it well with thin CA. Stand back as it will heat up, emit extremely toxic fumes, and set up hard. You can then sand, drill, or whatever is needed. BUT, beware of the fumes. Remember CA is cyanide based.

joe

Regarding voids in the wood...... I useta' panic. I've more than once gone past where I wanted to be trying to get thru a void.

no more.

Just fill them in, couldn't be simpler. In fact, one of the tricks I've learned is to use cyanoacrylate (super glue) gel and a "hotshot" accelerator. You squirt the chrystal clear glue into the void, hit it with hotshot and you're sanding away 2 minutes later.

hth

al
 
Shoot it in F open and see what you think. All you have to do to go F-tr is buy a pre-fit .308 barrel from Pac-Nor or SSS and screw it on.

Mcgowen is also an option. Mine shoots great, was a fair price, and the wait was short. They might even have a .308 or .223 in stock, and could get it in a few days. =)
 
Mine didn't want to shoot this tight. I used about 35in/lbs. Just a thought if you run into problems. YMMV

All suggestions greatfully accepted. Unfortunately, it may be a while before the weather gets decent enough (above 40) to see how it shoots.
 
If you do get a Pacnor 308, get it 30" for the extra velocity you need for !k yds, and get a precision ground recoil lug. The factory lugs usually are .004" or so thicker at the bottom of the barrel hole. I shoot a Savage with a Krieger 308 for Palma, and cleaned the 800 and 900 targets a few times. The 1000.....naaa.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
f-class

All suggestions greatfully accepted. Unfortunately, it may be a while before the weather gets decent enough (above 40) to see how it shoots.

the 30-06 is competitive , loaded properly in the right hands. go to rifleman's blog or 6mmbr. also a couple weeks ago it was -4 here in az. we don't let that bother us. roninflag
 
In that it is not going to be above freezing for the next week or more, I decided to take my newly stocked Savage to a local indoor range to see what it would do. In spite of a very uncomfortable semi-standing position and a rather unstable surface on which to rest my rifle, I was able to generate a couple of pretty respectable 3 shot groups -- 1 sub-1/2" (12.2mm) and a second at just below 3/8" (9.2mm) at 100 yards. I was shooting a 180 grain Hornady BTHP ahead of enough Win 760 to get me over 2700 fps.
It's going to be a long winter.
 
Find yourself a 112 BT stock, already has adjustable cheek piece and pillars from the factory, Gun parts had them at one time for $200.

What is a 112 BT stock? Is there a web site where I can what it looks like? I'm having a Krieger SS barrel chambered in 6.5x47 Lapua on my Rem 700, hopefully by the end of next week
 
Back
Top