homemade gun safe questions

D

Douglas

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We have a place up in northern Wisconsin that we keep about 12 long guns year round, nothing very valuable, so security isn't a big issue. We presently store them in the house but I want to keep them outside for convenience of use. I plan to build a gun safe using 3/4 plywood inside and out, 2" high density poly (the green stuff), this will be the walls, ceiling, floor and door, two 24" GoldenRods. I originally planned to seal this thing up tighter than a drum, caulk all the joints, weatherstrip all around the door, make it as airtight as possible. But when I went on the GoldenRod web site in the FAQ, it said the key to success was the treated space must have air flow, ventilation. So I called them just for clear direction; the lady said the rods keep the space 3° above outside ambient temperture. This provides desired humidity control, regardless of outside temperture, be it -20° or +90°. She went on to say that all gun safes had leaks and the leaks provided for proper air flow.

So now my question, how leaky should I build it? Do it as I described and drill a couple holes for ventalation, or leave out the weatherstrip for the door? I don't want to make it too leaky, will defeat the GoldenRods. It's going to be in the milkhouse, unheated in winter and hot/humid summer.

Thanks, Douglas
 
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Don't have holes that mice can get through. A friend has several very nice firearms that have to be refinished due to the damage caused by mouse urine. His safe is in his garage, big commercial unit, with holes in the bottom.
 
Wood & Mice

Don't mix too well. Get some Alum. or tin sheeting from your local furnace shop and afix to the whole outside. That will keep the little 4 legged critters out,But unless this property is occupied 24/7 your insulated gun cabinet isn't going to do a thing to slow down the 2 legged critters (valued guns or not)
 
As a homebuilder/construction guy I say just build it. You'll find a building to be harder to SEAL than to make it leak. it will leak plenty. We seal homes by caulking all of the sill plates, foaming all switches, windows and penetrations. As the lumber shrinks over time the leaking will become even "more effective" :D

Just build it as tight as you can to keep bugs/vermin out and IF I'M WRONG then you're stuck with drilling a couple small holes and screening them. wheee.

al
 
Build it tight with a 1/4 inch screened hole at the bottom and top of the door... that will guarantee air flow and make it easier to open and close door as well.
 
Thanks, that's what I figured build it tighter than hell and see what happens. If any two-legged critters want to see what's inside, first they're going to have to fire up the chain saw; hammers and pry bars ain't gonna get in this thing. Thanks, Douglas
 
I have a Liberty Safe that is about 10 years old. The only hole in it is about 3/8 of an inch. The hole is the only one left by the manufacturer and was intended for a single electrical cord. A plug won't fit through the hole so you have to attach a plug after you run the cord. Anyway, I've never had an issue with rust and I live in a humid area. I do have a Golden Rod attached to a lower shelf inside the case.
 
Douglas said:
Thanks, that's what I figured build it tighter than hell and see what happens. If any two-legged critters want to see what's inside, first they're going to have to fire up the chain saw; hammers and pry bars ain't gonna get in this thing. Thanks, Douglas
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Be sure to share pictures of the build.
 
What I've seen

I think you should concider building the safe in such a way that no one can tell it is even there. No visible hinges or latches. No visible seams. Old time knotty pine paneling helps, etc. A lot of cabins have secret storage spots.

A secret door into the secret passage way etc.

How about a rotating fireplace?

If it's out side it could be a rotating tool shed.

Shovels on one side and guns on the other.

It could also be a slider on rails with an electric motor.

Build it like a pocket door.
 
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Do what I did... find an old upright freezer that doesn't work anymore and gut the internals. I made a simple arrangement rack that would hold 12 guns. I re-wired the interior light to a timer to come on once a day for 20 min. That took care of the moisture.
Most appliance dealers will give away their trade ins.
 
John S said:
I think you should concider building the safe in such a way that no one can tell it is even there. No visible hinges or latches. No visible seams. Old time knotty pine paneling helps, etc. A lot of cabins have secret storage spots.

A secret door into the secret passage way etc.

How about a rotating fireplace?

If it's out side it could be a rotating tool shed.

Shovels on one side and guns on the other.

It could also be a slider on rails with an electric motor.

Build it like a pocket door.
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You've SEEN this rotating stuff??? Not in the movies, in real life??

I build quite a few safes and vaults and "secret doors" and rooms and I've never seen one of these rotating dealies for real.

The most common REAL application is to put the door in the back of a coat closet. Other choices I've seen are the sliding bookcase, the knotty pine tongue and groove door hidden on a blank wall and for really exotic app's a small electric "garage door" covered with wood and pictures.

al
 
I like the old freezer idea, sure would be a lot easier, and cheaper. years ago (before microwaves) we used to use old refer's to cook in on contruction jobs, just used light bulbs, worked great. Thanks, Douglas
 
Never thought of the freezer idea....that's a great economical safe idea. One thing about air flow in typical fire gun safes. The doors do not seal all the way for two reasons. One, for air flow and Two, for door operation. If you don't believe me...run power into your safe and put a small fan in it. Close it all up and use a candle around the door edge....it's not sealed. The edging around the inside of the door expands during a fire and seals the safe.

Hovis
 
I've used old reefers for powder/primer storage for years. This is a GREAT container for volatiles, even including the "blast door" feature. Always face the door toward where you'd want the blast of flame to go in case of fire. A defunct upright refrigerator or freezer and a Goldenrod (or even a low wattage bulb) and you're golden. BTW, a fridge will also withstand a tremendous amount of heat from the outside before ignition occurs inside.

al
 
hey Al

The whole world rotates around my wife; just ask her.

But with all that aside; I grew up in and area of Ohio that contained a number of houses that were part of the Underground Railroad. Many of these homes had all types of secret hiding spots and passages for runaway slaves. I think later on they were used to hide corn whiskey and guns;-)=
 
Up in northern Wis each town has a dump, there's no curbside garbage pick-up, you have to take your stuff to the dump. There's always old refridgerators and freezers sitting there. I'm going to keep my eye out for a decent one. Did you know that a refer compressor makes a great little air pump for blowing up stuff like air mattress and beach balls? or switch the hoses and you have a vaccuum pump. Thanks, Douglas
 
Douglas said:
Up in northern Wis each town has a dump, there's no curbside garbage pick-up, you have to take your stuff to the dump. There's always old refridgerators and freezers sitting there. I'm going to keep my eye out for a decent one. Did you know that a refer compressor makes a great little air pump for blowing up stuff like air mattress and beach balls? or switch the hoses and you have a vaccuum pump. Thanks, Douglas
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No I did not!

:)

I growed up in MN in a land of dumps.....the important fact that I learned was NEVER use a toilet for a random target while hunting rats at the dump. I've heard that old CRT TV's can also sling a 22 bullet back at you.

al
 
alinwa said:
.... I've heard that old CRT TV's can also sling a 22 bullet back at you.

al
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Back where I grew up, we had a dump about five miles outside of town. I remember going there with .22s and shooting everything we could. I shot a couple TVs, but always from a distance. I had heard that they would pop and I wanted to see it.... no luck.

Adrian
 
How about an old refrigerator?

Douglas said:
We have a place up in northern Wisconsin that we keep about 12 long guns year round, nothing very valuable, so security isn't a big issue. We presently store them in the house but I want to keep them outside for convenience of use.
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You can get such a thing (or two) very cheap, they're insulated, they're easily locked, and people are used to seeing them outside.

Pull out the racks and shelves. A side-by-side fridge will provide more height space than an over/under setup. :)
 
I was looking at my prophile and noticed this old thread, so I thought I'd share an update. I did build the "safe" summer of '09. I built it out of 1/2" plywood and 2x4's, everything is 3-1/2" thick, walls, floor, ceiling/roof and door. I put 3-1/2" of the pink insulating board, Dow I think, a 2" piece and a 1-1/2" piece sanwiched between the plywood. Around the door I put self stick 4" wide window flashing tape, the door fits very tight all around and I caulked all the joints inside. i put an electric box inside and put 3 18" Golden Rods. I bought one of those Oregon Scientific units that has temp and humidity, put one transmitter inside and one outside. I did not put any guns in it at this time so I could monitor the temp/humid over the rest of the summer and winter, the sensor has a history feature. Inside temp averaged about 30 degrees higher than outside regardless of outside temp and the humidity is about 20% inside. This summer I put the rifles in it, confident that it works. I've got a couple hundred bucks in it, but it's built like a tank and works like a charm. Thanks, Douglas
 
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