B
BenKeith
Guest
Bluing with ammonium Nitrate and Lye (sodium hydroxide). I've used this stuff many times years ago and never had a problem. Now I'm trying to blue a Leupold scope base I've modified to fit an action on a rifle I doing for my granddaughter but things are not working.
First time it blued but had a brown looking crust on it that didn't want to come off. I'm using a fish cooker pot so if figured maybe the salts were contaminated because they turned brown during the cook down. I add more water and used that batch to clean the pot. I made another batch and it cooked down very clear but this time the part didn't blue at all, just a thin redish brown rust looking finish.
Tired off buffing it out, I polished some scrap metal pieces to work with. Thought maybe the salts were too thin so I doubled the size of the batch but still not getting a good blue and had a crust on it. I've been keeping the temp approx 295, never letting it get below 290 or above 300. I tried one piece at a hotter 305 - 310 but still didn't work. I have not tried a second thremometer but this one was new.
The ammonium nitrate is the pure white beads @ 36-0-0
The lye is Rooto crystals of 100% lye (since you can't get RedDevil anymore). I got an MSDS on the Rooto lye and it shows it to be 100% with no other additives. It does say a blend but that seems to be a blend of flakes and crystals. I've tried to get the Roebic Heavy Duty Crystal Drain Opener that contains 100% Sodium Hydroxide to see if it made a difference but no one I tried could even order it.
I'm going to get some Potassium Nitrate (Stump Killer) and see it it works on this part but I still need a solution to my Lye mix problem becuase I have two rifles I want to blue.
First time it blued but had a brown looking crust on it that didn't want to come off. I'm using a fish cooker pot so if figured maybe the salts were contaminated because they turned brown during the cook down. I add more water and used that batch to clean the pot. I made another batch and it cooked down very clear but this time the part didn't blue at all, just a thin redish brown rust looking finish.
Tired off buffing it out, I polished some scrap metal pieces to work with. Thought maybe the salts were too thin so I doubled the size of the batch but still not getting a good blue and had a crust on it. I've been keeping the temp approx 295, never letting it get below 290 or above 300. I tried one piece at a hotter 305 - 310 but still didn't work. I have not tried a second thremometer but this one was new.
The ammonium nitrate is the pure white beads @ 36-0-0
The lye is Rooto crystals of 100% lye (since you can't get RedDevil anymore). I got an MSDS on the Rooto lye and it shows it to be 100% with no other additives. It does say a blend but that seems to be a blend of flakes and crystals. I've tried to get the Roebic Heavy Duty Crystal Drain Opener that contains 100% Sodium Hydroxide to see if it made a difference but no one I tried could even order it.
I'm going to get some Potassium Nitrate (Stump Killer) and see it it works on this part but I still need a solution to my Lye mix problem becuase I have two rifles I want to blue.