Holding the reamer with a pusher

How are most holding the reamer when using a pusher like Mike Bryant’s style? Seems to me that
if not equal holding pressure is used on both sides of the reamer one would be forcing the reamer to cut over sized chambers with the lift of just holding one side. Like when holding the Bald Eagle. I really don’t know just asking.
Chet
 
Someone explain to me how the PTG reamer holder or any others prevent the reamer from spinning? I'll bet in actual use there is a single contact point to prevent rotation and it's not on the center line of the reamer.

Has anyone ever applied side pressure by hand to a fully engaged reamer to see how much pressure is required to make it cut? Might surprise you.

Some will know the answer to this. How would measure the change in diameter of a chamber if you changed the way you hold a reamer? Assuming you used the same reamer in the same barrel with the same chambering process.

I have many sets of resize and finish reamers with only .0030" difference in size. Each and every set has worked perfectly. Just lucky I guess.
 
DAVE,
i do not know the answer to your question,
but my chambers are cut well and shoot well.
luckie me.
 
i would guess he does more in a month than i will do in my life time.
that does not mean i do not produce quality chambers,
and i have no doubt that he does as well.

Yeah! We learn something every day. You probably chamber more in a day than most chamber in a year or "lifetime".
 
i would guess he does more in a month than i will do in my life time.
that does not mean i do not produce quality chambers,
and i have no doubt that he does as well.

Sir, I would not pass judgement on your chamber jobs as I have not checked one, Just don't sell Dave short.
 
Someone explain to me how the PTG reamer holder or any others prevent the reamer from spinning? I'll bet in actual use there is a single contact point to prevent rotation and it's not on the center line of the reamer.

Has anyone ever applied side pressure by hand to a fully engaged reamer to see how much pressure is required to make it cut? Might surprise you.

Some will know the answer to this. How would measure the change in diameter of a chamber if you changed the way you hold a reamer? Assuming you used the same reamer in the same barrel with the same chambering process.

I have many sets of resize and finish reamers with only .0030" difference in size. Each and every set has worked perfectly. Just lucky I guess.

Dave, it amazes me on how such a simple task as driving a chamber reamer can be turned into a much complicated task. For decades I have used your floating pusher design without any complications!!

GEESH!!

.
 
Thanks to all who replied . I have found that asking a question first and getting honest stright forward answers can save a lot of trial error.
Chet
 
Seems to me that if not equal holding pressure is used on both sides of the reamer one would be forcing the reamer to cut over sized chambers with the lift of just holding one side.
Chet

Practically, seems not, but theoretically, yes. Check out Alex Wheeler's system, it is nice idea. You still have to be conscious of how you grip the disk to avoid one-sided force on the reamer, but it largely addresses the issue you point out. And it is safer, since you don't have a handle swinging around that could smash fingers, or worse. Note that the weight of the holder also creates a downward force on the end of the reamer, so a lightweight system is better. (Sorry, had to say it. It must be winter. ;))
 
Dave, it amazes me on how such a simple task as driving a chamber reamer can be turned into a much complicated task. For decades I have used your floating pusher design without any complications!!

GEESH!!

.
I have been running a lathe for a good 25 years so I've learned what kind of problems you can have with tailstock misalignment

So I'm looking good for ways to deal with this a couple years ago because I got a lathe of my own and want to do barrel /action work for me and my boys so I'm reading and seeing what you guys are doing and find many different methods.
So with my experience I weed through a few and decided I need to make my own (holder pusher stile) and have at it and get great results.
Except I'm not completely happy with my results.
So I figure if this reamer maker is selling a floating hold I should get and try it well that didn't go very well so I sent it back.
Now I'm back to my pusher holder.

I have a tendency to complicate things.

I have improved my setup to a point I'm happy I've improved my pusher holder and ready to test it again.

Until I feel I have achieved my best witch I think is to put a chamber exactly where I intend it to be (size and position) I have trouble letting it sit. All of this was only concerning about .0003 except the floating reamer holder job that I had to develop a fix for so I guess I keep going.
 
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I have been running a lathe for a good 25 years so I've learned what kind of problems you can have with tailstock misalignment

So with my experience I weed through a few and decided I need to make my own (holder pusher stile) and have at it and get great results.
Except I'm not completely happy with my results.
So I figure if this reamer maker is selling a floating hold I should get and try it well that didn't go very well so I sent it back.
Now I'm back to my pusher holder.

I have a tendency to complicate things.

I have improved my setup to a point I'm happy I've improved my pusher holder and ready to test it again.

Until I feel I have achieved my best witch I think is to put a chamber exactly where I intend it to be (size and position) I have trouble letting it sit. All of this was only concerning about .0003 except the floating reamer holder job that I had to develop a fix for so I guess I keep going.

As to position, the reamer will venter on the center of rotation. Size will depend how far off the headstock axis the reamer is forced (on a through the headstock setup). You can hold the reamer with something as simple as a Sinclair case turner handle.

However you hold the reamer, FOR SAFETY, make sure the handle clears your ways or cross slide. And hold that handle in the crook of your index finger. I've never had a reamer to grab but rest assured if it does you want it to jerk loose from your hold..

.
 
I think many people just don't understand what the bore on a rifle is really like
The term wanders seem to describe it well

So you take the time to dial a barrel in to as close to zero as you can at the throat and muzzle if that is the method you use then you drill and bore it to say .020 short and .014 under finish shoulder then you ream it with a tight fitting bushing instead of a loose firing bushing or none.
Well the throat is in the right place but a half inch forward or reverse it is out .0005 then the pilot hits that point when the reamer is following the prebore and it forces the reamer out ,0002 then your chamber is out .0004 on top of say.0002 were you were able to dial it in to and your wondering what the heck. not only that but your setup may have moved to.
Or you dial in the barrel breach only and you have it in .0002 at two points or multiple points inbetween 2 to 3 inches and you ream it with the reamer itself and there is a point along that path that is out .0005 and it does the same thing as above.
And you get the point of the different scenarios there are.

What I know is you can't have more then one influence on the reamers path if you expect it to stay on that path.
so the setup and the method need to allow that whatever it is.

If all the variables aren't seen people wonder why and try something else so we get all the threads on this subject.

Oh if you are using a floating reamer holder it can hard to feel when the reamer starts to take a detour.
 
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leave the bushing off, and follow the taper bore that you dialed in.
that way you ream to the throat, straight without the forward bore trying to move the reamer
sideways. the throat hits the lands straight.
thanks jackie.

I think many people just don't understand what the bore on a rifle is really like
The term wanders seem to describe it well

So you take the time to dial a barrel in to as close to zero as you can at the throat and muzzle if that is the method you use then you drill and bore it to say .020 short and .014 under finish shoulder then you ream it with a tight fitting bushing instead of a loose firing bushing or none.
Well the throat is in the right place but a half inch forward or reverse it is out .0005 then the pilot hits that point when the reamer is following the prebore and it forces the reamer out ,0002 then your chamber is out .0004 on top of say.0002 were you were able to dial it in to and your wondering what the heck. not only that but your setup may have moved to.
Or you dial in the barrel breach only and you have it in .0002 at two points or multiple points inbetween 2 to 3 inches and you ream it with the reamer itself and there is a point along that path that is out .0005 and it does the same thing as above.
And you get the point of the different scenarios there are.

What I know is you can't have more then one influence on the reamers path if you expect it to stay on that path.
so the setup and the method need to allow that whatever it is.

If all the variables aren't seen people wonder why and try something else so we get all the threads on this subject.

Oh if you are using a floating reamer holder it can hard to feel when the reamer starts to take a detour.
 
leave the bushing off, and follow the taper bore that you dialed in.
that way you ream to the throat, straight without the forward bore trying to move the reamer
sideways. the throat hits the lands straight.
thanks jackie.

I'm thinking if there is enough variation over the length of your pilot to cause it to fight against your perfectly dialed in throat, your barrel should probably be sent back to the maker.
 
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