Hi and some information if you please!

B

Baldbob

Guest
Hi guys my names adam and I live and hunt in New Zealand!
Ive slowly come to the point of my first rifle build through my interests in reloading and ballistics which im realising that the more I know the less I really know, its a technical subject!

ANYWHO

Ive gone though your site abit and can see there are some very knowledgable chaps aboard this forum so maybe hoping to tap some of that knowledge:D Even tho my question is not totally benchrest orientated:eek:

I have a tikka T3 lite .270 win gathering dust as I have another .270 which is my main hunting toy. anywho im looking at my first rifle build and was going to use this action to base my build off.
Idea is to build a rifle with a trueflite ultramatch barrel, aftermarket stock bla bla with an intended use of a longrange range toy for plinking on the range out to 800m maybe further, BUT still has the ability to hit the hills hunting!

So i was looking 6.5-06AI then i got keen on the 280AI then scraped that and am now looking at the .284 winchester very seriously and basing it around the berger 180 VLDs.
So what barrel lengths would be best to acheive top velocities but maintain that balance required for feild use? And what twists would you guys recommend? and will those twists still stabilize smaller pills or will i be stuck with 180s?

The other thing is I am slowly working myself up over this .284 shehane as a chambering, looks to get top velocities with reasonably low pressures much like its parent .284 win!
Whats it like accuracywise? what do you guys think of it for my intended purpposes? only thing is id have to order a reamer from your side of the world as i dont think we have any over here:mad:

Baring in mind this stuff cost twice as much over here to do as you lucky buggers over there:p
Any ideas or tips be very much appreciated, Im struggling to find the knowledgeable types over here to give me the info i want before i go ahead. As in typical NZ style i get a stupid answer.:D:D:D

Cheers adam
 
Right up front, I would give a thought to the trigger, and the availability of aftermarket stocks. If your stock trigger can be made light enough (safely) and you can use the factory stock, then there is not a problem, but if you are going to want a lighter trigger, and/of a different stock, their availability is an issue that should be addressed before any money is spent modifying your Tikka.
 
less a sugestion than a question but what would you guys think of a double set trigger for the uses the OP has in mind?
 
Double set trigger would be great but that big $ here.
And im a lefthander and a tikka action is what I have so thats whats being used!
 
Why not a.............

6.5X57 Improved? :eek: You can get some very strong cases from RUAG (Norma, RWS) or Lapua (7X57) you can also get Hornady, or any good machinist to make an hydraulic form die made from the reamer that cut the chamber (Hornady requires 3 fired cases, I believe, and can get tiresome crossing all the frontiers, TERRORISTS!!, y'know) Less powder than the '06, no barrel to burn out while forming cases, 24-25" even, ought to give you what you wish, if its set-up properly, a 2 or 3 contour, if you're not carrying all day(the OLDer you get, the less you'll need the TACtickle 35lb rifles):rolleyes: Those guys always think they'll be "extracted" & won't have to RUN!!:D:D If you put some good thought into it, you should be up and running in about a year, depending on procurement and the schedule of your 'smith. Good Luck ;)
 
Meh i was originally gonna go with the 6.5-06AI reason im looking 7mm is basically the availability of BIG wind bucking pills like the 180 VLD also these carry some of the highest BCs available (ifeel) to the non magnum lower bore shooter longrangewise:D

A year hmmmm I was expecting a tad longer but availability of coin will set the timeframe!

Whats it cost over there?
HERE:
Initial rifle cost $1400
Rebarrel,chambering,crowning,threading for can, bead blast etc is bout $1000
Fluting $300
Stock imported from aussie is $772
Bedding job is $300
Tactical 20 degree canted rail thingy $300
Scope well thats still a ????? but im gonna order and import from the states as thats "ALOT" cheaper but hopefully a nightforce:D
 
Hmmmmm....You might consider.......

setting the shoulder back on the .284 a bit, just so you have enough neck for those big VLDs, and it might make it a bit more efficient in the bargain. Down there, do the Sparrows all have legs like Colonel Sanders' edibles from hangin' on the wires in those "breezes";):D?? Also, I forgot to mention the 47MM Lapua case in standard or "Imporved" configuration in either 6MM or 6.5MM, will be even more practical from the hunger standpoint than the 57MM case; and the bullets will probably cost you a bit less, too. As you may know, 6MM has been making some serious inroads on other diameters in target shooting, and that's where most of these combinations are proven out; If you get Hornady's manual and make some comparisons between the 6MMs including the 6X284 and .240 Weatherby and 6MM Rem., there does seem to be a point of diminishing return. I'd really like the .284, necked to 6MM or 6.5MM if it had maybe a .300 or .350 neck, but I'm SERiously getting away from such big engine rooms.......:eek:
 
Baldbob,
I know you guys hate the Aussies, but what about Phil Jones,Redback,in Queensland. He is a real great gunsmith. I would use an eight twist at 26". The 280AI will feed better than the 284. I do like the 284 though. I have one in a 1909 Argentine that is a .5MOA rifle. Not normal for a woodstocked mauser.
Some of the FClass shooters are starting to shoot the 7SAUM and they are a pretty incredible long range rifle. Check out Karl Feldkamp's web page and prices. Karl has an immaculate reputation. http://www.kampfeldcustom.com/index_022.htm Check his prices out. You can have rifles built here and they can be shipped to you. It is a pain in the ass, but much cheaper than the prices that you posted.
Butch
 
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