Help me to bed my 54.

R

rolf

Guest
Hi

Like the title says. I wonder if anyone(s) could help me with pictures and advice on how to bed my Anschutz 54 Match?

Or perhaps you know of a link or two that has pictures on the subject?

Take care you all.

//Rolf
 
Look on the 6mmBR.com site.
There is an excellent primer on bedding there. It was written by Richard Franklin. He offers a video, but there is a ton of info on the web site. It is not 54 specific but should get you well along.
Don
 
crb said:
Here is a link.

http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html
Click to expand...

I would add or clarify a few items:
1) The recoil lug in a bedded Anschutz is optional
2) Use a paste wax under a film release agent as a backup
3) I bed in three steps to simplify alignment and to minimize the mess
4) I use masking tape to clamp the action in the stock. Be careful how much pressure the clamped action exerts down on the barrel where the tape contacts the forearm or your barrel could end up low in the channel.
5) I use masking tape on the barrel to center it in the channel and tape on the tang to adjust the height of the receiver.

I spend most of the time making sure the wood stock is prepared and the pillar alignment is perfect. The actual glassing is fast. The total for the entire process is under 6-8 hours broken into sessions:
1) Drill and relieve the holes for the pillars - this is where the alignment is critical
2) Open up stock (long sockets make great sanding blocks)
3) Cut the pillars to length
4) Prep the action
5) Glue in pillars with the action aligned
6) Bed the action
7) Bed the trigger guard

Mark
 
Last edited:
bed 54

I'm afraid it is necessary to get specific on the 54 action. I feel its necessary to add the following.
Remove the recoil lug from the stock. The easiest way is to drill a small hole in the front of the trig. gd. recess in line with the lug. Use a punch and punch out the lug. Throw it away.
Tape in "relief" on the lug recess in the receiver, front, back and bottom. If you don't tape front and back of the lug recess you will create a "pinch" point between the lug and the bedded front of the receiver. It is necessary to have relief on one or the other. I had always relieved the front of the receiver after bedding but it looks odd, so its easier to tape in the relief at the lug cut. When bedding, a new lug of bedding material will form.

You need to make two long bedding screws for alignment during bedding.

You may also want to pour pillars of bedding material to assure alignment since this is your first job.

You may want to consider taping relief of the entire action from 1" behind the rear receiver screw to the back. This is bottom and sides. Bedding here on a 54 is no help and what it doesn't touch can't hurt you.

bjm
 
As usual, a big thank you! to all of you. This is truly a mountain of knowledge and you can always expect polite and competent answers.

Now I must try to translate a couple of the inputs, it`s usually not a problem but it was a couple of technical terms to many so instead of risking a disaster I`ll go the long way.

Finally a question,:D Is the pillar bedding an absolut must or could I get away with an ordinary bedding job??
 
Rolf, I’m sure there are people on this site more competent than me to offer advice on this subject however the pillars are the most important part of the bedding process. This stops the wood/fiber glass from crushing when tightening the action screws.

I’ve recently completed an Anschutz 1913 in a BR50 stock using brass contoured pillars without any glass bedding. The front pillar was 18mm dia. & the rear 14.5mm. Getting the contour perfect is the hard part. My action measured 29.87mm, the contours were machined approximately on a milling machine and then lapped to the final size to ensure a perfect fit. The pillars were fitted to the action and then glued into the enlarged holes in the stock using JB Weld. I placed a piece of 0.015” shim under the action and held the complete assembly in place with electrical tape to provide a stress free bedding with the action clear of the stock. Once set I went round the action/barrel to make sure none of the stock was touching and I now have a completely stress free floated action. I’m presently playing around with torque settings and removal of the recoil lug, so far I’ve had the best results with no recoil lug and a torque setting of 6Nm
 
rolf said:
Finally a question,:D Is the pillar bedding an absolut must or could I get away with an ordinary bedding job??
Click to expand...

If you have access to a drill press installing the pillars is easy, and they actually simplify the rest of the process if you do it in the 3 steps I mentioned. Contoured pillars are nice, but not a necessity. You can buy aluminum pillars, shorten them with a hacksaw, dress them up with a file, bolt them to the action, shim the action, and glue them in the stock in only an hour to two. Most the effort is opening up the stock plus filling and masking the action and stock for the glass job.

Mark
 
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