Getting Around the Trigger

C

cwood3

Guest
So I'm foolin' around here, almost ready to glue. I notice, however, that the Jewell trigger that uses 2 screws to hold it to the trigger hanger is going to have to be messed with if I want to be able to remove it. This is a Cobra action (same as a viper, but 1/2" shorter). The rear screw is no problem, but the front screw requires quite a bit of stock to be removed. I then wouldn't really have room for the front trigger guard screw. How do you guys fanagle your way around this...???

I can get to the 3 adjustment screws, no worry. I don't really forsee having to remove the trigger, but just in case......


Thanks,

Curtis
 
Does your front screw on the trigger guard really do anything? It isn't into the action is it? If all it does is fill a hole and "hold" the front of the trigger guard in the stock it can be permanently removed.
 
I'm with Dennis. The front trigger guard screw is mostly useless. I have seen a trigger guard that didn't have the front screw hole at all. I wish I could remember who made it.

One thing you need to do is mill out enough stock so the trigger and hanger can be removed. It isn't necessary to take out the entire "footprint" of the hanger, they can usually be installed by nosing it in front first, then down. Using a ball end "allen" wrench can get the front hanger screw tightened with a little lean.

By trial and error you can determine just how much stock removal you need. Once you have it ready to glue, don't glue with the trigger installed, and make sure the glue doesn't creap into the hanger area.
 
That's kinda what I figured. I may even make a "dummy screw" just to make it look skosh.
 
I've cut the front tab of a few trigger guards away just due to this very thing, and I've also taken the screw, and cut away most of it. Just leaving enough to cut a groove that an e-clip will fit into just so the head fills the hole in the trigger guard.
 
I have a gun that Hart put together that is a glue in. The front trigger guard screw is a very thin screw that is actually tapped into the trigger hanger screw that is directly underneath. It lines up that way. (Hall action) The hanger screw is a hex head and the other screw is tapped inside of the hexagon. Sort of cool.
 
All of this hassle reminds me of why I designed the Ultralite stock. No bedding, glueing, routing, sanding, painting, wiping up excess epoxy and trying to get it out of the trigger bracket recess etc., etc. :p Just bolt the sucker to the barreled action with three 1/4 x 20 socket head capscrews and go shoot! :D :D

Gene Beggs
 
Say Gene,

I have been wondering, will your stock work for a LBRP action? I have been thinking about pulling one of my vipers out and trying something different.

Richard Brensing
 
R. W. Hart makes the trigger guard with only the rear guard screw and no hole for the front trigger guard screw. It works very well for actions that aren't drilled and tapped for a front trigger guard screw and saves installing a bushing or gluing in a screw head to fill the hole. On Bat actions, instead of drilling a hole for the front trigger guard screw, I mill a slot in the stock with a 1/4" end mill that extends from the trigger cut out in the stock through where the hole goes for the front trigger guard screw. The screw is a 10-32 so plenty of clearance to not touch the stock plus it's not tightened very tight. Just tight enough to fill the hole in the trigger guard a little before snug. The slot makes it easy to get to the front screw on the trigger hanger. Probably easier to do than to visualize.
 
Richard said:
I have been wondering, will your stock work for a LBRP action? I have been thinking about pulling one of my vipers out and trying something different.

Richard Brensing
Click to expand...


Hi Richard

Yes, it will work fine.

Give me a call. 432-631-5124

Gene Beggs
 
Single Screw Trigger Guard

Here is your trigger guard.
tguard_mach.jpg


Go to http://www.bordenrifles.com/forsale.html

It's close to the bottom of the list.
 
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