Galded threads
- Thread starter chris l
- Start date
M
mike in co
Guest
ss to ss requires a lube or galling is likely/possible.
mike in co
mike in co
J
Jim S
Guest
Some is not enough, cover every last thread. Cleaning up the extra is easy, removing a galled barrel isn't.
E
eww1350
Guest
Lubricant is critical
Chris L...I just went thru the same thing with a BAT action
...the lubricant I used was silicon based...I now use the Pro-Gold brand lubricant and nothing that isn't specifically engineered for SS...
Chris L...I just went thru the same thing with a BAT action
...the lubricant I used was silicon based...I now use the Pro-Gold brand lubricant and nothing that isn't specifically engineered for SS...
E
eww1350
Guest
Chris..what did you do to repair the threads..?
I had to machine out 2-1/2 threads nearest the action face, but also lapped the threads to the barrel with some clover 800 grit valve lapping compound, followed by some J-B compound..then thorough cleaning of the action/barrel.
And lastly clean the threads with an old tooth brush and lighter fluid each time you change barrels (then lubricate properly)...
Eddie in Texas
I had to machine out 2-1/2 threads nearest the action face, but also lapped the threads to the barrel with some clover 800 grit valve lapping compound, followed by some J-B compound..then thorough cleaning of the action/barrel.
And lastly clean the threads with an old tooth brush and lighter fluid each time you change barrels (then lubricate properly)...
Eddie in Texas
JerrySharrett
Senile Member
Unless you really know the process, I'd suggest not just running a tap in the receiver. Clay Spencer ( (434) 293-6836 (voice/FAX) Email: clayspencer@ntelos.net ) has developed a great method for restoring damaged action threads as has Gerg Tannel.
Anti Gaulding agents..
I have never found anything that works any better than a good high temperature molly bearing grease. Read the MACHINIST HANDBOOK it specifies "grease" as an anti seize agent.
It is sticky and stays on the threads well. The excess wipes up easly. The cost is minimal. It can be found at any auto parts store.
You can go out and buy all the specialized anti-seize tubes of goop and fine nothing that works any better than good old high temperature molly grease.
Nat Lambeth
I have never found anything that works any better than a good high temperature molly bearing grease. Read the MACHINIST HANDBOOK it specifies "grease" as an anti seize agent.
It is sticky and stays on the threads well. The excess wipes up easly. The cost is minimal. It can be found at any auto parts store.
You can go out and buy all the specialized anti-seize tubes of goop and fine nothing that works any better than good old high temperature molly grease.
Nat Lambeth
D
dajudge43
Guest
galled barrel
always remember...stainless steel is softer than most others
always remember...stainless steel is softer than most others
Gaulded threads..
First, saying I have been there and got the T shirt.
Second, there is no reason for getting gaulded threads the prevention is so easy.
Third, once one gets in a situation where a thread is gaulded don't ruin the action.
Always destroy the lesser valued barrel and preserve the action. Cut the barrel off and machine out the tenon stub. Brut force is not the answer.
Nat Lambeth
First, saying I have been there and got the T shirt.
Second, there is no reason for getting gaulded threads the prevention is so easy.
Third, once one gets in a situation where a thread is gaulded don't ruin the action.
Always destroy the lesser valued barrel and preserve the action. Cut the barrel off and machine out the tenon stub. Brut force is not the answer.
Nat Lambeth
N
NesikaChad
Guest
Stainless on stainless is about like bubble gum to bubble gum.
Not very eloquent but it illustrates the problems I think.
A copper based lubricant such as pro gold or copper base extreme pressure anti seize works well to avoid sticky threads.
Another important factor is surface finish. If threads are single pointed on a hand operated lathe with carbide tooling it is not uncommon for the surface finish to lean towards the rough side. The reason is that the surface speed of the material being machined is insufficient for the tooling to work properly. The flip side is it can be quite a challenge to thread a barrel tennon at 1200-1500 rpm by hand as that shoulder gets close mighty quick! The solution here is the right tooling for the operation being performed. It's a bit beyond the scope of this thread/post to get into that but a couple phone calls to tooling manufacturers is time well spent for a guy putting "wrinkles" on stainless barrels with a manual machine.
A suggestion is to buff the threads with a stick made from Kratex prior to assembly. It's essentially a pencil eraser embedded with an abrasive media. The challenge here is "swagging" the thread fit because it's not difficult to make a great thread fit loose if a guy is too aggressive with the kratex.
I've dealt with stuck threads before and one trick I've discovered is the use of Kroil and a hot air gun. Get the barreled action nice and hot with the gun and drizzle kroil in there until the whole shop has a nice white cloud of smoke hanging around. Then use small incremental rocking movements to back the barrel off. Ensure you maintain the heat and be generous with the kroil. It doesn't work everytime, but it does work.
Sorry to hear about your plight.
cheers,
Chad
Not very eloquent but it illustrates the problems I think.
A copper based lubricant such as pro gold or copper base extreme pressure anti seize works well to avoid sticky threads.
Another important factor is surface finish. If threads are single pointed on a hand operated lathe with carbide tooling it is not uncommon for the surface finish to lean towards the rough side. The reason is that the surface speed of the material being machined is insufficient for the tooling to work properly. The flip side is it can be quite a challenge to thread a barrel tennon at 1200-1500 rpm by hand as that shoulder gets close mighty quick! The solution here is the right tooling for the operation being performed. It's a bit beyond the scope of this thread/post to get into that but a couple phone calls to tooling manufacturers is time well spent for a guy putting "wrinkles" on stainless barrels with a manual machine.
A suggestion is to buff the threads with a stick made from Kratex prior to assembly. It's essentially a pencil eraser embedded with an abrasive media. The challenge here is "swagging" the thread fit because it's not difficult to make a great thread fit loose if a guy is too aggressive with the kratex.
I've dealt with stuck threads before and one trick I've discovered is the use of Kroil and a hot air gun. Get the barreled action nice and hot with the gun and drizzle kroil in there until the whole shop has a nice white cloud of smoke hanging around. Then use small incremental rocking movements to back the barrel off. Ensure you maintain the heat and be generous with the kroil. It doesn't work everytime, but it does work.
Sorry to hear about your plight.
cheers,
Chad
E
ErnieJ
Guest
Chad,
There's a simple solution to threading at high speed.Turn the tool upside down,run the spindle in reverse and thread from the undercut out.
There's a simple solution to threading at high speed.Turn the tool upside down,run the spindle in reverse and thread from the undercut out.
N
NesikaChad
Guest
Very true and well said.
In fact when I first came to Nesika this is exactly how we did it.
Personal opinion here to be taken with a whole can of Norton salt.
I've never cared for this method for one primary reasons.
It makes it a real challenge to set a barrel back later to squeeze a few more rounds out before it becomes a tomato stake. Reason is the thread relief at the shoulder interrupts the thread; usually smack dab in the middle of the tennon. I appreciate that not everyone does this, but many like to. Especially a target rifle since they can go through barrels kinda fast due to the volume of ammo shot.
In fact when I first came to Nesika this is exactly how we did it.
Personal opinion here to be taken with a whole can of Norton salt.
I've never cared for this method for one primary reasons.
It makes it a real challenge to set a barrel back later to squeeze a few more rounds out before it becomes a tomato stake. Reason is the thread relief at the shoulder interrupts the thread; usually smack dab in the middle of the tennon. I appreciate that not everyone does this, but many like to. Especially a target rifle since they can go through barrels kinda fast due to the volume of ammo shot.