Full Length Sizer Die.

[VAhunter]

Hey guys, I was just wanting to ask if it is best to use a full length sizer die? I only reload hunting ammo and I use RCBS die sets but I heard from a guy that it is best to just size the neck of the case. I thought I would some experienced reloaders.Thanks.

Chris

 

[virg]

For your purposes...

Using your standard RCBS dies will do just fine. Using just part of a more sophisticated reloading routine (just the "neck sizing only") will provide you no benefit at all. For your purposes, you're doing just fine.

virg

 

[abintx]

Chris ...

Hey guys, I was just wanting to ask if it is best to use a full length sizer die? I only reload hunting ammo and I use RCBS die sets but I heard from a guy that it is best to just size the neck of the case. I thought I would some experienced reloaders.Thanks. Chris

Today, the prevailing method of resizing among benchrest shooters is full length sizing each and every time with a neck bushing incorporated into the die for adjusting neck tension. As previously suggested, for hunting ammo, your F/L die will suffice.

 

[VAhunter]

Thanks guys.

 

[Winchester 69]

For hunting, a FL die may be preferred. It assures feed reliability. The nastier the game, the greater the comfort.

 

[Larry Elliott]

Agree with what everyone has said, but the adjustment of the FL die is critical IMHO. DO NOT follow the instructions issued by most die makers to screw the die down until the bottom of the die contacts the shellholder. The case is sized enough when it easily chambers in your rifle.

Back the die off 1/2 to 3/4 turn from fully down on the shellholder, size a fired case, and try to chamber it. It probably won't chamber, but if it does back the die out another 1/2 turn and proceed. Screw the die down 1/8 turn, size another case and try to chamber it. Do this until you can either just feel the fired case when closing a stripped bolt on it OR use a Hornady "headspace" gauge that measures the headspace of the case (base to datum on case shoulder). Size the cases 0.002"-0.003" shorter than their fired length. Do this even if you're using a belted case.

Pushing the shoulder back 0.006" or more on your cases (by adjusting the die per maker's instructions) will only shorten case life and do nothing for
ease of feeding and chambering or accuracy.

If you put an "O" ring under the sizing and seating dies it will help them move a bit in use to help produce "straighter" cases and loaded rounds. I use a paint pen to mark the lock ring on the die and the top of the press so that the dies can be returned to the same location every time with the "O" rings installed. The dies should be snug but not super tight and should be able to be wiggled a small amount with the fingers on the top of the installed die.

This probably isn't needed for minute of deer ammunition, but better is always better.

 

[TC260]

I was given similar advice by a benchrest shooter at a local gunshop...set the FL die so you just bump the shoulder on a fired case without pushing it back. I used a grease pencil and marked the shoulder so when the pencil mark just started to squeeze I know I was right at the shoulder.

When I did that though with my 260 rem, the shellholder was very close (within a few thous) of the die. Is my FL die adjusted right even though the shellholder comes that close? I adjusted my 30-06 and 30-30 the same way but I think both of them had much more clearance between the die and shellholder.

 

[Larry Elliott]

The shellholder can touch the bottom of the die, in fact Redding sells a set of shellholders of different thicknesses so that with the die adjusted to just bump the shoulder back it will be on the top of the shellholder. If there's a small gap it shouldn't cause any difficulties for game or live varmint accuracy from my experience.

 

[alinwa]

I never let a die touch the shellholder. In fact, if a die is so long as to touch down I've ground the bottom off!

I just got in a Neil Jones die, completely custom on every dimension, and I was bummed out because Neil sent it out before I could tell him to cut twenty thou off the bottom. Now I get to chuck it up and shorten it.

I'm not referring to hunting or casual rounds.

al

 

[realm-aw]

FL die problem

Recentley helped a friend with a problem of cases seperating after the second firing. He was using "Custom-Grade New Dimension" dies and the FL sizer was way tight. It was increasing OAL by .005 and not setting back the shoulder. We switched to his old RCBS FL sizer and had no problem bumping the shoulder .001. The manufacturer replaced the defective die and thought there "might have been a production problem". Without question FL shoulder bumping is the best way to go. However it is not nearly as simple to get it right as necksizing is for the novice reloader.

 

[chino69]

Squaring your die

I never let a die touch the shellholder. In fact, if a die is so long as to touch down I've ground the bottom off!

I just got in a Neil Jones die, completely custom on every dimension, and I was bummed out because Neil sent it out before I could tell him to cut twenty thou off the bottom. Now I get to chuck it up and shorten it.

I'm not referring to hunting or casual rounds.

al

Hi Al.
I read your post and a couple of questions came to mind. If you don't touch your shellholder with the bottom of the die how do you square your die?

I've had good success using Redding small base dies, taking approx. .010 off the base, and sending them to JLC Precision with five fireformed cases to be precisely honed and turned into a full length bushing die that gives me flexibility. I'm able to bump my shoulder precisely, with the use of die shims, and size the neck with the use of neck sizing bushings. I still square the die initially with the press cammed over and firmly in contact with the shellholder while tightening the locking ring down and securing the set screw to the die body. Just curious how you ensure your die is square?

Lou Baccino

 

[alinwa]

Hi Al.
I read your post and a couple of questions came to mind. If you don't touch your shellholder with the bottom of the die how do you square your die?

I've had good success using Redding small base dies, taking approx. .010 off the base, and sending them to JLC Precision with five fireformed cases to be precisely honed and turned into a full length bushing die that gives me flexibility. I'm able to bump my shoulder precisely, with the use of die shims, and size the neck with the use of neck sizing bushings. I still square the die initially with the press cammed over and firmly in contact with the shellholder while tightening the locking ring down and securing the set screw to the die body. Just curious how you ensure your die is square?

Lou Baccino

I don't.

IMO "squaring the die" is unadulturated hog poop, one of the literally hundreds of "stands to reason" Urban Legends that don't actually withstand scrutiny.

But that's just ME!

LOL

Actually, here's what I do...... I put down a stack of shims equaling about .007-.013, back off the lock ring and dial her down until I TOUCH the wax on the shoulder.

This whole thing takes a couple minutes of trial and error, the die runs up and down the case a few times, clunking up and down in the t'reads.

I might spin the case. At least I used to, I probably haven't for 5 yrs......

When she's close I run the lock ring down hand-hard with the case in the die and lock the setscrew. Hopefully I can still pop 'er loose by hand when I back the press off....... if not I file it in the back of my noggin that something might be a little wonky, "check for runout."

If you look at the pic over on my 6X47L thread you'll see cases which have been full-length sized over 40 times...... they've now been reused almost 50 times..... I've moved them over to another chamber, a chamber cut with a different, larger reamer! Still working up loads with them.

ZERO case growth, they've not grown a thou, just checked 'em.

The bolt closes easily on the loaded round and the runout doesn't move the stylus on the dial......

Ohhh, and they shoot good too

al