Frwillia

B

Butch Lambert

Active member
Butch Lambert said:
I enjoyed the give and take on the barrel indicating thread. I did and do enjoy your threads. No hard feelings. I guess we will have to agree to disagree. When ever you come over to my way of thinking, I will not say I told you so.
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Ditto. :D

Use Force 44 solder on your front sights. I'm sure this is what you discovered and used. If you have, maybe it will help others.
http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to-calculate-front-and-rear-sight-heights-your-rifle-267108/view/
Butch
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I have the Force 44 solder and the recommended flux. I made a springloaded holding tool. I've been looking on the web for detailed instructions on how to do the soldering. So far I'm coming up empty.

I have the first two Brownell's books, they are silent on soldering and suggest gluing it on with Acraglas. I will be using solder.

I will probably use soapstone to contain the solder, tin the sight, clean and flux the barrel, maybe tin the barrel but I don't think that will be easy to do, set it up and go for it. If I get it clean and hot enough to flow it should stick.

Anyway, I'm heading for the shop tomorrow to get-er-done. It's going to be warm enough to go shoot later this week and I want to shoot this new barrel.

Thanks
Fitch
 
Force44 works great. Did you get the tape or wire type? I cut the tape to fit the bottom of the sight and clamp it before heating. The soapstone will really help cleanup. You may also check on Loctite BlackMax 380. It is great.
Butch
 
I have the ribbon verision, and I made spring loaded clamping tool, so I can so just as you suggest.

OK, I'll quit procrastinating and go do it tomorrow. I've got the right stuff, time to go put some heat on the problem.

Thanks!
Fitch
 
Will you two just quit it!! Quit it I say!!
Next thing I know you guys will be buddies, and kissing and everything, yuk!!!
 
use the screw to locate don't bother or rely on the spring holder. Tin both surfaces whenever possible. I almost guarantee you won't be successful the first time soldering takes some feel so practice on something. When the comet flux starts turning black you are close to heat you want the solder to melt on the piece when you touch it not bead up then use something to wipe the solder (degrease steel wool works well). You do this while getting on and off with the heat so you don't have to much no matter how much you wipe you won't wipe off the solder but you will have a thin skim left. After both are tinned screw the ramp down and apply heat, a little flux around the joint will pull the solder to the edge and you can add a little to the seem if you need to. With 44 you will usually get the faintest straw color when the heat is right but if your careful no color.
 
Fitch,
Listen to Nick. He is one of the best custom gunmakers in the USA. He did a lot of work on my Enfield that I'm building in a 416 Rigby.
Butch
 
ndh78 said:
use the screw to locate don't bother or rely on the spring holder. Tin both surfaces whenever possible. I almost guarantee you won't be successful the first time soldering takes some feel so practice on something. When the comet flux starts turning black you are close to heat you want the solder to melt on the piece when you touch it not bead up then use something to wipe the solder (degrease steel wool works well). You do this while getting on and off with the heat so you don't have to much no matter how much you wipe you won't wipe off the solder but you will have a thin skim left. After both are tinned screw the ramp down and apply heat, a little flux around the joint will pull the solder to the edge and you can add a little to the seem if you need to. With 44 you will usually get the faintest straw color when the heat is right but if your careful no color.
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Thank you very much. That is what I needed to know.

Fitch
 
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