Fitting a barrel, rimfire.

Charles E

curmudgeon
(from another thread)

The Gilkes "shoulders up" just like any other action so you can use the same cut and try method as with any chamber reamer. I would like to try it on a rim-fire because of the small tenon diameter and the problems with putting a tight spot in the barrel just ahead of the chamber. It might be a solid set up. My rim-fire rifles are barrel block mounted and the Gilkes system would work well with a barrel block.
Jeff

I recently got a new action from Leonard Baity. (Don't read anything into this either way, Leonard and I go back to the beginnings of the Hawks Ridge 1,000 yard club.) The metal work for this 10.5 pound class rifle is done. I know that excessive torque putting on the barrel can cause distortion in the barrel. In the CF world, this begins to show up around 40-foot pounds. But any distortion is in the chamber, so going on up to 120 or so foot-pounds is usually considered OK (I typically use 100 ft/lbs).

Now I've seen it mentioned that with an RF barrel, the distortion would arise in the throat, or barrel, depending on the tenon/shoulder. I believe one well-known builder from Ohio has tossed out a figure of 12 to 14 foot pounds as a maximum. I don't believe that's enough even for RF, unless you're barrel blocking and the scope is mounted on the block.

So it occurred to me: How about using 15 foot pounds, but use loctite 243 on the threads? The fit of the barrel in the receiver is quite good; if you snap it down with your hand, you need a wrench to pull it. The thread fit is just loose enough not to gall. The shoulder is doing its work; the point of the loctite would simply be to keep it there.

Anybody tried this? Thoughts one way or the other?

* * *

Jeff, If you are using a barrel block, and the scope is mounted to the block, then cantilevered back over the action, one thing you can be sure of is that the scope and barrel are pointed in the same direction. The only issue then, on tightening the barrel, is to make sure it doesn't move "much," or esp. permanently.

If you're starting from scratch with a new design, the easiest way I can think of is to not use threads, just use loctite 603. Or, take a look at Vaughn's diagram on page 119 of Rifle Accuracy Facts. We could probably re-machine some of the heavier receivers like a 40-X for this kind of system. If you want a threaded system, this has to be the best way. If you want to try indexing the barrel, use a coned breech & no problems.

* * *

When you're dealing with pressures and forces as small as generated in the .22RF, all types of solutions seem available. I remember Karl Kenyon made a lever action .22 BR rifle, that by all accounts shot quite well. Why not? You can lock a lever action up closer to the bolt nose than many RF bolt actions. (Or not. Don't know how Karl's action was designed.) Depending on the design, a lever action or falling block can have reasonable camming power on seating the round, if not on extraction. And with the success of stocks like Shelly Davidson's tinker toy (CF) and Gene Beggs skeleton stock (CF and RF), old notions of stock stiffness are challenged.

Etc. Etc.
 
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With a properly lubed tenon screw it up hand tight. Once back in the bbl vise with an action wrench, simply back it off 1/4 turn and then give it a smart snap back, you don't need to overpower it, just a smart "click" and you're done, it won't go anyplace.
 
I just hand snap them. Never had one come loose. Firing it will cause it to tighten and then you may need a wrench to remove it.
 
I have fitted rim fire barrels in un-threaded actions using a slip fit and the appropriate Loctite product. No stress at all and these have shot very well. Just requires a little heat and a little twisting to later remove them.
 
Dennis,
Exactly which Loctite product are you using ? I have a Suhl I want to rebbl and I was originally going to thread the action but have been contemplating a slight interference fit with some locking compound.
 
This setup is currently on my 40X. I'm torquing it to app 35 ft lbs. I should run some slugs down the bbl with the nut loose and then tighten the nut and run some more slugs down the bbl. Going with the nut did eliminate a tight spot in the bore that existed with the original torque shoulder that I had machined into the blank.
40xbblnut.jpg
 
Dennis,
Exactly which Loctite product are you using ? I have a Suhl I want to rebbl and I was originally going to thread the action but have been contemplating a slight interference fit with some locking compound.

Loctite RC/609
Retaining Compound
General Purpose
Cylindrical Part Bonding

I made it an easy push fit by hand... it does not need to be an interference fit.
 
From Loctite:

Loctite® RC™609 is a low viscosity, rapid-curing liquid. It augments the strength of press-fit assemblies and can be used on slip fits up to .005" diametrical clearance. RC 609 fixtures in 10 minutes on unprimed steel at room temperature, providing a shear strength of 3000 psi at full cure.

and

These anaerobic adhesives are used to bond and increase the shear strength of non-threaded, cylindrical metal assemblies. Fills the inner voids in close-fitting press fits, keyways, and splines. Allows you to mount bearings and bushings, and make press fits even stronger. Formulated in a selection of viscosities, gap filling ability, flexibility, and strength characteristics. Typical temperature range is -65°F to 300°F. General purpose Formula 609 is a low-viscosity, fast-curing adhesive used for bonding rigid metal assemblies. High temperature Formula 620 has the capability to operate at 450°F for long periods. It fixtures in 60 minutes at room temperature, but requires a secondary heat cure to generate high temperature resistance. Quick Metal® Formula 660 is a creamy, non-running gel that is applied onto cylindrical parts to fill surface imperfections and repair worn areas. High strength Formula 680 provides a shear strength of 4000 psi after 24 hours.
 
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