Firing pin's mechanical stop, Calfee

K

Kathy

Guest
My friends:

All rifle actions have some means of stopping the firing pin's forward travel when the action is fired.....

For instance, the firing pin's mechanical stop on a 700 Remington centerfire is the counterbore in the front end of the breech bolt that the front shoulder, of the firing pin, stops against.......

On a 54 Anschutz, the mechanical stop is the front edge of the cocking piece, of the firing pin, striking the bottom of the cocking notch.......same for the Hall rimfire action..

On the Turbo rimfire action, the front shoulder of the firing pin strikes the counterbore near the nose of the breech bolt....

My question: Where is the firing pin's mechanical stop on the Remington 40-X rimfire?

Thanks in advance.....

Your friend, Bill Calfee
 
I don't know !!

I should have ask Genen Davis or Jerry Graves today. They both like 40X's .... a lot. :)
 
In one

action I have it is the front of the pin hitting the inside of the front of the bolt. The other one the cocking piece hits the inside of the shroud. I dont know if either have been modified. In my remake, i made it be the pin and front bolt because the tolerances are easier to make it come out right. My guess is you know this and probably have an opinion on which is better. I would really like to hear others opinions on this. The bolt shroud method is MUCH harder to get it close, if it is important. How thick is the rim when it is smashed?? That will tell me home much overtravel I need to. I dont want to hit the barrel and it appears that at least one of my factory ones will.
 
Friend Gordon E

Friend Gordon E:

You are correct my friend, the mechanical stop for the 40-X Remington Rimfire is the cocking piece striking the counterbore in the bolt plug (shroud).

There is a very good reason Remington chose to stop the firing pin in this manor, as opposed to allowing the front shoulder of the firing pin body to strike the counterbore in the front half of the bolt.....

It don't take but one look at the 40-X rimfire breech bolt to see the reason..

Your friend, Bill Calfee
 
Bill

you are most egocentric guy I have ever come across in my life. The only reason you post this is to try and make Jerry look bad just because he would'nt kiss your butt, and make an action just as you think it should be. If you are trying to get a point across, call Jerry and discuss it with him, and don't come on this forum with your backstabbing methods. GROW THE HELL UP.

Jeff
 
It appears to me that if the firing

pin hits the cocking slot then it tends to keep the bolt halves together and not push on the front of the bolt vesus the back. If it hits on the front then it separates the bolt halves and pushes the lugs back against the body without a case in the barrel. Is this bad?? If so, I will make it work the other way. I notice the turbo does it the same way as mine, and it seems to be a fav of Bills. The hall is the other way which is also a fav of Bills. Kent Owen, Gene, Jerry what do you think? Its not too late to change.

If there is a case in the barrel I must be a damn fool, because I really dont see a difference as the case rim stops the pin before either way hits anything.

ps. I still plan on building a true BR action. The 40x is just an easy stopgap along the way. With Kiff building my bolts, it is pretty easy to get the bodies at my shop. I have the BR design basically done, just not enough time to finish the build. My feelings was that We/I are better off with a 40x now and a BR later then just a BR later.
 
Jerry,
Maybe Bill C. will come back and explain himself. then maybe not. For one of my 40X's, I have two bolts. One has a 12 oclock firing pin and the other has a 6 oclock firing pin. The 12 oclock pinned bolt is conventional Remington and the FP stop is at the shroud. The bolt with the 6 oclock FP is setup for the FP to stop at the front, and at mid-bolt and at the shroud in at the same time. It(firing pin body) was lapped to fit all 3 stop surfaces then drilled for the FP nose. Headspace is .043 on both bolts.

The rifle shoots equally well with either bolt. I don't know if this means anything but honestly you cannot tell a difference in score or accurracy in this particular situation, and this rifle has won against the best of 'em when I could see the wind flags out of my left eye. In another rifle it might make a big difference. I think the rifle that won the ARA indoor Nationals this year was set up like my 6 oclock FP bolt. Wouldn't swear to it, but pretty sure. It shot very well. Same man did both bolts.
Hopefully, Mr. Calfee will come back and give some more info.

In my opinion the Remington style seems to work pretty well, but I don't know much, I just shoot 'em and tinker with 'em. Gene Davis has built some great rifles using 40X actions, as has Bill Calfee, and Lamon Loggins, and Bill Myers, Todd Taylor, and many others as well. They must wok pretty well.

Jerry, as I said before I look forward to seeing one of your actions when you get them completed.
 
Bill Calfee.

As someone has posted before - Bill Calfee has elevated hubris to a true art form. Keep up the good work Bill.

SteveM.
 
My friends

My friends:

I quote from myself:

"There is a very good reason Remington chose to stop the firing pin in this manor, as opposed to allowing the front shoulder of the firing pin body to strike the counterbore in the front half of the bolt....."

MY friends, if you have a Remington 40-X rifmire, pull the breech bolt and study it.....

After studying it, ask yourself this: Would I want to snap on an empty chamber, dry fire, my 40-X if the firing pin was stopped by the front section of the breech bolt?

My dear friends, with a round in the chamber it don't make no difference how the firing pin is mechanically stopped.....the mechanical stop ain't going to be hit anyway.......

Now my dear friends, study your 40-X breech bolt and I think it will be real obvious why Remington chose to stop the firing pin with the bolt plug, shroud, and not the front section of the bolt.......

Your friend, Bill Calfee
 
40 X Poor

I guess if we don't have a 40X we don't need to know this information. Maybe, if I send a self addressed envelope I could get the answer?

Thanks, James
 
Anybody got a picture of a 40X so I can see what you're talking about? Or maybe I shouldn't care because I don't have a 40X? Never liked riddles much anyway.

Ken Henderson
 
Self addressed Envelope

TangoTwo said:
Anybody got a picture of a 40X so I can see what you're talking about? Or maybe I shouldn't care because I don't have a 40X? Never liked riddles much anyway.

Ken Henderson
Click to expand...

Ken, You might try the self addressed envelope. James
 
Thanks James, that course of action had slipped my mind. Blame it on age, good as any other excuse. In fact may use that excuse this weekend at the match.;)

Ken
 
I see

your point. If there is enough slop in the joint the front bolt may hit the back of the barrel cone if you use a full round cut versus having small extractor cuts. The extractors may hit if the case is not there to hold it out. I looked at my computer database and it seems to not hit with my dimensions, but tolerances my get the best of it. The shoud timing to the bolt is damn hard to get exactly right so the cocking piece stopping in the shroud is tough to get right 100 of 100 times. I may rethink the whole mess after the prototypes. Stopping in the cocking slot may be the easiest answer. I dont like the firing pin spring load being absorbed by the .094 cross pin much either, but I guess it works. Time to come up with something truly clever for a change I guess.
 
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I have two 40X's. They are both different. They both are shooters. That's all I care about. If I had a problem with one of them laying down on me, off to Gene Davis they would go.
I couldn't take the drama of the original posters gunsmith abilities and, uh, thoughts.
Can ya slug a 30-06 two groove barrel? If ya could, off to Jerry it would go.
Dale McClure
 
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