Firing pin spring rubbing inside bolt?

E

elmerdeer

New member
Hi guys, I have a model 70 win that has been accurized and I have changed the firing pin spring inside the bolt to a heavier spring 28#, instead of the 24# it comes with originally. I have noticed that the spring seems to be rubbing inside the bolt as put the firing pin back inside the bolt.
My question is can this affect accuracy at all it seems I get fliers regularly?
My gun is win Mod70, featherweight stock Mcmillam, pillar posted and bedded, barrel is a fw Krieger, crown is 11degrees, with a muzzle brake. I shoot of rear bag and atlas bipod, I get 1moa at 200yards on most of my load development with 5 rounds, caliber is 280AI 9.5twist.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Elmer
 
FBecigneul said:
................Also, it's good practice to change the spring on an annual or bi-annual basis as they tend to shorten with being compressed for a long period of time. ..........
Click to expand...

So you and Paul must have STACKS of worn out springs laying around?? If you do I could use some spares for my hand throating tools :)

al
 
elmerdeer said:
"... I have noticed that the spring seems to be rubbing inside the bolt as put the firing pin back inside the bolt.
Click to expand...

All firing pin springs rub against either the bolt body, OR the firing pin.

A long, thin spring CANNOT support itself under compression, so if you compress the spring, it WILL bend until it is restrained by something - in guns, it is the pin itself, or the bolt walls.


My question is can this affect accuracy at all it seems I get fliers regularly?
Click to expand...

No...
 
you mention your shooting from a bi pod, well it takes one heck of a good shooter with perfect technique to not get many fliers off of a bi pod.
 
Does anybody have an opinion as to whether the Gre-Tan Rem ass'y is a worthwhile upgrade to my F Class M700? Suspect wobbly spring, and I know the shroud is a loose fit(wrapped the threads with plumbers teflon tape for a Bubba fix).
 
i tried one a few years ago on one of my varmint rifles, ended up with the factory parts back in the rifle. i didnt care for the undersized firing pin tip.
 
I think that the small firing pin tip is intended to be used with a smaller bushed firing pin hole in the bolt.
 
Elmer:
I shot Palma competition for 14 years with the model 70's (pre64 and Push feed's) and the spring issue you are talking about it's not really a problem as sutch, I went from a rookie to High master class (with three Krieger barrels) and i used the 30 lb spring and changed it every two years. I did polish the inside of the bolt until it looks like chrome, also buffed the spring. Oh almost forgot the Teflon tape works well.
Clarence
 
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cdupuy said:
Elmer:
I shot Palma competition for 14 years with the model 70's (pre64 and Push feed's) and the spring issue you are talking about it's not really a problem as sutch, I went from a rookie to High master class (with three Krieger barrels) and i used the 30 lb spring and changed it every two years. I did polish the inside of the bolt until it looks like chrome, also buffed the spring. Oh almost forgot the Teflon tape works well.
Clarence
Click to expand...

Thank you I will try that, what th teflon tape for?
Elmer
 
Elmer use the Teflon tape wrapped arround the threads of the firing pin to tighten up the fit.

Clarence
 
I had a post on here, at least one and I thought a reference to this post in another, about tightening a 700 shroud. I included how I did it and at least one pic.
I have searched for 1/2 an hour and cannot find it, something strange going on. Keywords shroud, silver, solder, brazed and tightening under my name came up with nothing.

Here is a pic of a stainless shroud I did with its threads silver soldered and then recut true to the centerline to fit the bolt body tightly. I braze the chrome moly shrouds.
Mar25_09_025.jpg


If anyone remembers this topic please chime in.
 
I don't have a Model 70, but I can say there ain's no threads on my Rem 700 FP. Or does he put it on the shroud threads?
 
Some time back, within a discussion, someone told of a pair of rifles, (based on the same custom action) that he had, where one was shooting fine, and the other had fallen off. Various suggestions were made. If I remember correctly, I PMed him to try plumber's teflon tape, wrapped tightly, in several layers, on the shroud threads in front of the clearance cut for the cocking piece. It worked. Later, he measured the shroud clearances on the two actions, and the one that had developed the problem was considerably looser. I think that when he first got it, it was right on the edge of too loose, and as it wore, it went over the edge. In any case, you might want to take notice of Jackie Schmidt's old Farley action, that did such a good job for him, that has a custom shroud that his friend Gene Buckys made from self lubricating structural plastic, saving weight, and allowing for a closer fit than would work well with metal. Things that rattle and catch in the firing mechanism can make an accuracy difference. I came up with the teflon tape idea, after pulling the bolt of an old 722 apart. When I screwed the bare shroud into the bolt, I could see that it seemed to be too loose, and I do not have a lathe, or mill, but I did have some teflon tape handy. The difference in sound, when dry firing, before and after application, seems to be significant. BTW, as you might imagine, the tape goes away after a while, and has to be replaced. I wish that PEI Rob was in the US, so that I could send him the bolt from that old 722 to have its shroud fit permanently fixed. As it is, I am not sure that rifle parts can cross the border without a lot of paper work and delay.
 
PEI Rob said:
Yes, thanks. IIRC that would be the second topic and after I had already done some. There was an earlier topic regarding this as well. I tried to search again for that post in the link above and it doesn't show up in my search and I used keywords directly out of the post. Damn search function.
Click to expand...

The vBulletin forum software search functions don't work well especially with archived data.

I searched for the earlier topic you mentioned but didn't find it. I found a bunch of posts prior to 04/10/09 and maybe I missed the one you were referring to. Do you have any specific keywords for the earlier post that I could use to search again?

Edit: Found this but the link you posted is broken. http://benchrest.com/showthread.php?56291-Cured-fliers-You-may-want-to-try-this.&
 
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Boyd Allen said:
Some time back, within a discussion, someone told of a pair of rifles, (based on the same custom action) that he had, where one was shooting fine, and the other had fallen off. Various suggestions were made. If I remember correctly, I PMed him to try plumber's teflon tape, wrapped tightly, in several layers, on the shroud threads in front of the clearance cut for the cocking piece. It worked. Later, he measured the shroud clearances on the two actions, and the one that had developed the problem was considerably looser. I think that when he first got it, it was right on the edge of too loose, and as it wore, it went over the edge. In any case, you might want to take notice of Jackie Schmidt's old Farley action, that did such a good job for him, that has a custom shroud that his friend Gene Buckys made from self lubricating structural plastic, saving weight, and allowing for a closer fit than would work well with metal. Things that rattle and catch in the firing mechanism can make an accuracy difference. I came up with the teflon tape idea, after pulling the bolt of an old 722 apart. When I screwed the bare shroud into the bolt, I could see that it seemed to be too loose, and I do not have a lathe, or mill, but I did have some teflon tape handy. The difference in sound, when dry firing, before and after application, seems to be significant. BTW, as you might imagine, the tape goes away after a while, and has to be replaced. I wish that PEI Rob was in the US, so that I could send him the bolt from that old 722 to have its shroud fit permanently fixed. As it is, I am not sure that rifle parts can cross the border without a lot of paper work and delay.
Click to expand...

Not hard to do Boyd, your regular smith can do it if he wants to. I simply braze or silver solder over the threads, no need to completely fill in just make sure the braze or solder is thick covering the threads. I pick up the existing threads and take lots of very light cuts because the mandrel in the lathe that's holding the shroud has a small diameter and will flex easily. I run in a 1/2x13 tap inside the bolt to clean it and make sure there are no burrs prior to rethreading the shroud.
 
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