I was wondering if when my gunsmith pulls my 7lb Bartlein barrel from the Remington 700 receiver to install a new muzzle brake onto the barrel.....and he puts it all back together nice and neat again........will the glass bedding job get messed-up or effected in the process? (ie; the barrel and action will not fit into the glass bed exactly the same way....even if it looks right at an eyeball's glance ??)
Does reinstalling the barrel and the receiver disturb the bedding?
- Thread starter VaniB
- Start date
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Dennis Sorensen
Guest
If it has a 700 style recoil lug, any rotation of the lug will affect that area if there is not sufficient clearance on the sides and bottom of the lug area.
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HCP
Guest
lug movement?
Many years ago I made a locating fixture that will relocate a 700 lug exactly as it was before for this very reason. Similar to a Kliendorst lug locator but with modifications. If the barrel is bedded on the breech end it must be clocked exactly. Final check is with a dial indicator when tightening the guard screws. For that matter it is not necessary to remove the barrel to install a muzzle brake, this appeared recently on another thread. Mandrel in the action indicated, crown indicated, have at it. I've done a million this way, zero problems. Just requires a little thought...Herb Coates
Many years ago I made a locating fixture that will relocate a 700 lug exactly as it was before for this very reason. Similar to a Kliendorst lug locator but with modifications. If the barrel is bedded on the breech end it must be clocked exactly. Final check is with a dial indicator when tightening the guard screws. For that matter it is not necessary to remove the barrel to install a muzzle brake, this appeared recently on another thread. Mandrel in the action indicated, crown indicated, have at it. I've done a million this way, zero problems. Just requires a little thought...Herb Coates
Thank you gents. I really didn't like the whole idea of shipping this barelled action out of state. Insured shipping is expensive and I have to worry about theft and damage. But, I'm now starting to think I'd be better off sending it to Darrell Holland, instead of driving 75 each way and letting my smith jack with it. Holland does not remove the barrel to do it, as my smith would do. And I would hope that if anybody knows how to install a Holland's brake....it would be Darrell Holland.
Mike Bryant
Active member
If the barrel channel isn't freefloated completely in front of the recoil lug, then the barrel would need to be turned in to the same exact amount. I'd suggest relieving on each side and bottom of the recoil lug with the only point of contact between the stock and recoil lug being the rear of the recoil lug. The recoil lug pinned in place with a completely freefloated barrel channel and you won't have a problem with whether the barrel goes back on the action completely to the same tension every time. FWIW, I use a rear action wrench and Snap On torque wrench to tighten my barrels. The barrel threads are coated with anti-seize and in combination with the torque wrench seem to go together well without having a worry about a barrel coming loose even with large cartridges such as .338 Lapua's. Another plus of a completely freefloated barrel and pinned recoil lug is that a straight taper barrel with ample freefloat can be removed without removing the action from the stock.
I do understand your concerns about damage from shipping. Make sure you insure for plenty and can back up the amount that you insure. Then wrap it as securely as you can in bubble wrap and double boxing won't hurt. If you have a doubt that you have it packed securely enough, then you haven't and wrap it a little better. There is no such thing as boxing up a rifle or barreled action too securely. I recently sent out a 1000 yard rifle by 2nd day air Fed Ex. The rifle was wrapped in bubble wrap, and then secured in a Doskocil SE gun guard using zip ties on each end and handle to keep everything together. When it arrived, the Shehane stock had been crushed and will have to be replaced. I was looking forward to hearing how the 6 BRDX was going to shoot as the bedding was as stress free as you could get with .0005" movement between barrel and forend when each guard screw was loosened and tightened.
I do understand your concerns about damage from shipping. Make sure you insure for plenty and can back up the amount that you insure. Then wrap it as securely as you can in bubble wrap and double boxing won't hurt. If you have a doubt that you have it packed securely enough, then you haven't and wrap it a little better. There is no such thing as boxing up a rifle or barreled action too securely. I recently sent out a 1000 yard rifle by 2nd day air Fed Ex. The rifle was wrapped in bubble wrap, and then secured in a Doskocil SE gun guard using zip ties on each end and handle to keep everything together. When it arrived, the Shehane stock had been crushed and will have to be replaced. I was looking forward to hearing how the 6 BRDX was going to shoot as the bedding was as stress free as you could get with .0005" movement between barrel and forend when each guard screw was loosened and tightened.
Thanks for all the input Mike. Yes, the first inch of the barrel is bedded. Depending on the email response I get from Darrel Holland, I will now likely be using him. So the bedding question is no longer a concern. His wife or whoever answers his phone says that he uses a special rig so he doesn't have to remove the barrel from the action. She requested that I send just the brreled action. Like I said above....I'm sure he knows how to install his brakes as good as anybody else could. I'm just sorry I didn't install a MB before I completed the rifle. It would have made life a lot easier. I didn't know a 17 1/4 lb rifle would still recoil too much with a 22-x 6.5 x47L case. I can't see the bullet impact the target without momentary recoil black-out.
I normally ship my rifles and barreled actions in a roomy gun case. I first wrap the barrel muzzle in cloth so it doesn't ram-rod through the plastic case. Then I put an inch of folded card-board at each end. I then put an outer card-bord sleeve over the case so it's not obvious what's inside. Unlike factory cardboard gun boxes, plastic gun cases are oversized and expensive to ship. But my rifles ALWAYS gets to there destination safe in this way. The real problem is that I have no control over how well the gunsmith packs it for the return trip. It drives me nuts too that the gunsmiths (or sellers of rifles) ALWAYS under insure the return trip.
Hence, these concerns are why I prefer to drive to my smith 75 miles each way. But, my smith will not play ball in this case. (as usual) He has his own way of doing things and a firm take-it-or-leave-it attitude. That's fine, and I understand that he has to be comfortable with a job if he is going to do it. But, sometimes this is the result of this ridgid attitude; I do not want him seperating the action if it can be helped.....and so now I have to hassle with the worries about shipping it to another smith (Darrel Holland). Oh well, it's just a hobby.
I normally ship my rifles and barreled actions in a roomy gun case. I first wrap the barrel muzzle in cloth so it doesn't ram-rod through the plastic case. Then I put an inch of folded card-board at each end. I then put an outer card-bord sleeve over the case so it's not obvious what's inside. Unlike factory cardboard gun boxes, plastic gun cases are oversized and expensive to ship. But my rifles ALWAYS gets to there destination safe in this way. The real problem is that I have no control over how well the gunsmith packs it for the return trip. It drives me nuts too that the gunsmiths (or sellers of rifles) ALWAYS under insure the return trip.
Hence, these concerns are why I prefer to drive to my smith 75 miles each way. But, my smith will not play ball in this case. (as usual) He has his own way of doing things and a firm take-it-or-leave-it attitude. That's fine, and I understand that he has to be comfortable with a job if he is going to do it. But, sometimes this is the result of this ridgid attitude; I do not want him seperating the action if it can be helped.....and so now I have to hassle with the worries about shipping it to another smith (Darrel Holland). Oh well, it's just a hobby.
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NesikaChad
Guest
If a stock's bedding job is done properly and the barreled action is disassembled/reassembled properly then it should be able to be taken apart and reinstalled an infinite number of times.
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chino69
Guest
Bedding problem
I've got a problem that I can't figure out and would appreciate some ideas on where to go. I have a Savage single shot rifle set up as a switch barrel varmint rig. The action (older two screw) is bedded in a SSS fiberglass stock. I always use a dial indicator to check after the bedding has cured to ensure there is no stress imparted by the guard screws. I use a universal dial indicator with a clamp on the barrel and a large button on the underside of the stock forearm. While the rifle is supported and with the indicator pre-loaded, I loosen the front guard screw and see no movement. So far so good. I then tighten the front guard screw and loosen the rear guard screw and see approx. .005 deflection in the down direction as if the barrel is drooping. When I tighten the rear guard screw sufficiently, the indicator goes back to zero. Shouldn't there be no movement when the rear guard screw is loosened? The barrel is a Pac-Nor pre fit in the Savage varmint contour and I don't recall having this problem before with other barrels. The recoil lug is pinned.
Lou Baccino
I've got a problem that I can't figure out and would appreciate some ideas on where to go. I have a Savage single shot rifle set up as a switch barrel varmint rig. The action (older two screw) is bedded in a SSS fiberglass stock. I always use a dial indicator to check after the bedding has cured to ensure there is no stress imparted by the guard screws. I use a universal dial indicator with a clamp on the barrel and a large button on the underside of the stock forearm. While the rifle is supported and with the indicator pre-loaded, I loosen the front guard screw and see no movement. So far so good. I then tighten the front guard screw and loosen the rear guard screw and see approx. .005 deflection in the down direction as if the barrel is drooping. When I tighten the rear guard screw sufficiently, the indicator goes back to zero. Shouldn't there be no movement when the rear guard screw is loosened? The barrel is a Pac-Nor pre fit in the Savage varmint contour and I don't recall having this problem before with other barrels. The recoil lug is pinned.
Lou Baccino
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Dennis Sorensen
Guest
When you remove the rear screw you are asking a lot of the very small amount of bedding forward of the front screw. It is a leverage thing. You have a lot of weight working on a long lever pivoting at the front screw. If it shoots well I would not worry about it.
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chino69
Guest
Bedding problem
Dennis,
Thank you for your reply. That thought crossed my mind but I wanted to hear it from someone more knowledeable than me.
Lou Baccino
Dennis,
Thank you for your reply. That thought crossed my mind but I wanted to hear it from someone more knowledeable than me.
Lou Baccino
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bea175
Guest
another good reason for having the recoil lug pinned