CZ 527 Barrel Refinishing

J

jimalbert

Guest
Hello everyone. I gave my CZ 527 in .223 to my brother in law last fall because he wanted to borrow it for fall turkey hunting. I didnt specifically worry about the gun because I have let him borrow things in the past and they have always came back in great condition. Long story short, I received a call last week from my sister saying that she didn't want me to be upset but my brother in law left my gun in a soft case that was apparently had been left under a leaking pipe in the basement (yea right). Anyway, there was some pretty heavy pitting on the front of the barrel after I cleaned it off. I tried sanding some of it out, and finishing it up with progressively finer batches of steel wool. I have pretty much come to the conclusion that Im never going to be able to fill the pitting in a way that will last over time, so I was thinking about gun kote or something similar. What are your opinions on a fishing method for this situation?

Thank You,

Jim
 
Actually I refinished a Winchester 30/30 that was left in a soft gun case for several months after a hurricane blew the roof off of the house it was in. I sand blasted several times with play sand from Lowes (very course) and finished with Gun Kote. I never did get all the pits and the lines from the threads in the weave of the cloth to go away. I used a flat finish and it still looked bad. With out draw filing out the pits I don't think you will like the results. I would have it bore scoped to see if the interior of the barrel is ruined before I tried any thing on the out side. The gun I did was so dirty inside, I think it saved the barrel interior from being damaged.
 
The rifling is fine. Its quite amazing that the exterior of the barrel could be so bad and the rifling could be fine. Quite honestly the pitting that is there doesnt bother me a great deal except for the fact that my guns are immaculate and I hate the way it looks. That's why I thought of cera-kote or dura-kote. Since the gun was pretty much for fall turkey, coyotes, or plinking at long range I was thinking about a digital camo pattern on the action and barrel and if I would place the stencils appropriately, I could mask the pits on the barrel with the break up of the camo. I also thought about having someone fill in the pits with a welder and then filing/re-finishing or filling with JB weld to see if it would hold. My gut feeling is that the JB wouldnt stand up to the pressures applied on it when firing. Thank you guys for all of the help!

Jim
 
Midnight Blue

I laid a rifle on the tail gate one night and got in the truck to warm up. I was waiting on a dog to get treed and the temperature was steadily dropping to below zero. Garmin showed him treed and I drove up hill on a gravel road to get closer to my dog. When I stepped out of my truck and saw my tail gate down I instantly remembered that there was a rifle on it a little while ago.
You wanna talk about pitting? I picked it up in pieces. Recrowned it. Cleaned it. Put it together and after zeroing I used it for a couple more years before taking another hiatus from coon hunting.
(I'm still on that hiatus.)
It sat around with rust consuming most of it I thought about having it wrapped but that'd cost more than it's worth.
I had a few fellars wanting me to blacken their barreled action after I put barrels on for them, they were serious enough to talk $$$, so I built a oven and bought some cerakote and got busy. Cerakote has some dark blue colors that mimick blued steel. I decided to use that old rifle for a gini-pig to see how the blue really looked and for a practice run before taking on a customers rifle.
If I would refinish the stock someday it will look better than it did new & a durable finish too.
Without knowing how deep your pitting is I cannot say for sure it would cover up completely but blasted with coarse 100grit media and treated with a semi gloss application of Midnight Blue it will cover a lot of bad looking steel.
 
There is a thread on here about camo dipping that you might want to read. I dont know it the J-B weld or marine tex would stay on, I think it would but the heat in the curing process (1 hour at 300 degrees) of the product I use may be too high.
 
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