compensating for .308 case volume difference

H

Hman1956

Guest
I have began sorting my brass by weight as a way of getting the same volume, I have 2 question.
1. what should the maximum difference be before the case is moved to a different group?
2. is there a way of compensating for case volume difference with a very small change in load?

thanks
Bill Hodkinson
Rem 700 VLS in .308
 
LC brass is way heavy which means less capacity. Keep those seperate and start low on the load. Consider these machine gun brass seperate. Note: the LR headstamp does not apply. Remember work up loads cautiously but dont concern yourself with weight sorting other than keeping the machine gun brass seperate.
 
I'm new to Benchrest shooting and I'm still trying to get a handle on what I should be concerned with and what really has little to no benefit.
there is so much info out there on the web.....it's overwhelming sometimes.

thanks for you input

Bill
 
Itll take a full out benchrest gun to see the difference in groups. Main thing you need to be concerned with on a 308 is machine gun brass and over pressure because of it. Keep us posted
 
................ is there a way of compensating for case volume difference with a very small change in load?

thanks
Bill Hodkinson
Rem 700 VLS in .308

Technically there is but it requires a scale capable of resolving single kernels of powder.

You sound like perhaps you are early in your learning curve, sorting out "what's important and what's not." If this is true you've come to the right place..... LISSEN to these guys, read every line and between the lines.

Which brings me to the thrust of my post.

My guess is that you're throwing your powder charges thru a volumetric measure or that perhaps you weigh some or all of your loads on a small balance beam scale, either of which are more than adequate for your setup. They ARE NOT however, adequate for resolving issues as minute as variation in case volume in cases of the same brand.

Nor is your rifle setup :)

You rifle is incapable of 'seeing' these small differences and looking to these differences will distract you from real differences, important stuff.

Some points to ponder;

#1, learning what's important is HARD. So take lots of notes.

Let me repeat.... WRITE IT DOWN!!..... every day, every outing, every reloading session. Get'cherself 6-8 cheapie ringbinders, I'm talking about 50 cent ring bound tablets from the local grade school supplier and WRITE IT ALL DOWN. Day/Date/Temp/Load/Gun/etc/etc/etc.... I even draw a liddle cartoon of nearly every group, just scribble dots and SWAG at a group size thru the scope....more data is better and you'll be amazed at what those groups show you over time. You want little round groups and vertical strings. Horizontal strings, diagonal strings, duck-shaped groups, turtle or elephant shapes, constellations and shotgun blasts, all bad but more importantly ALL DIFFERENT.

#2, believing what you're seeing is HARD, so take lots of notes.

Rabbit trails abound, innernet fables abound, opinions abound, learning not only the right questions to ask but from whom to get your answers is hard. Write everything down, keep an open mind and be honest. It's just too easy to believe that that one group you shot that one day is real.

It aint.

Even though there are billions of guns and guys on the net who "shoot quarter-inch groups all day when they do their part" they really exist only in their own fevered brains. Real, repeatable, on-call accuracy is not easily attained.

#3, now that you're WRITING IT DOWN you can assess for yourself.

This may seem trite but it's huge. If you've a question as to the efficacy of (sorting by volume/cleaning casenecks/reaming primer pockets/deburring flashholes/weighing VS throwing your charges/annealing/waxing VS dry lube VS wet lube/spinning-turning-folding-spindling-mutilating......and se...) you can test it yourself once you're WRITING IT DOWN! :)

And now you can make bell curves of things like velocity, velocity variation, group size and shape plotted against stuff such as brass weight variation, sizing variation, primer brand and type etc etc etc...

LISSEN but don't believe anybody.

Which brings me to the REAL thrust of my post. Powder throwers and balance beam scales.

You will read all sorts of stuff about how velocity is majorly affected by (case volume/neck tension/neck diameter/seating depth/bore cleanliness/primer seating/flashhole variation/brand of bore cleaner/brand of toilet paper the wife buys/brand of car you drive) when in FACT most velocity variation comes from how you measure your powder charges. If you've a scale capable of sorting brass to the tenth grain or better, do yourself a favor and check charge weights day-to-day, brand to brand etc, REALLY get a handle on your charge weight loading consistency and eliminate charge weight variation as your first variable.




TRY this test and WRITE THIS DOWN :)

Check your thrower against a good scale.

The best powder thrower in the world is capable of throwing charges which consistently vary as much as a full grain of powder and the BEST THROWER coupled with the BEST TECHNIQUE coupled with the BEST METERING POWDER and operated by THE BESTESTMOST DUDE will absolutely vary 1/4 grain of powder in any given string and 1/2 grain from day-to-day.

This variation completely masks, completely eclipses any perceived variation from case volume differences.

IMO


I'm not saying not to ask the questions.... just be chary of pat answers and write your own opinions down and save them for future reference.


Enjoy The Journey


al
 
Thank you all for you input
so I'm doing all (I think) case prep I have been told to do, trim, debur flash, use new Lapua brass, neck turn, fire form, neck size, primer pocket prep.
And then weigh ALL of my loads down to the .01 +/- .03 gr. seat closer to the lands (I found it did help) and then true all of the finished rounds.
That has got me to shoot sub-moa @ 200 yard most days. I have a lot of work to do with my technique and that is something I work hard on.
BTW I hope the new Jewell trigger will help with that.

again thanks to you all

Bill
 
Get a better seating die if you have to straighten your rounds.
Get the best rest your pocketbook can swing- youll have it forever no matter if you do get into a benchrest sport so never sell your sporting rifle setups
Get windflags!! One thing i do is let the wind completely switch and just see how far it pushes it out at different velocities and directions. Get a good spotting scope and write that down so you can study it and then youll know how far to hold or if you even need to hold to get what you need to get done.
Make sure you experiment with the whole setup from rest placement to holding techniques. Those hunting guns are so finicky you may never find the correct combo.
Start saving for a good used BR gun. Youll be surprised how much more you can learn when the gun is predictable. When you can change neck tension and actually see what it did makes HUGE differences in what you can learn. With a hunting gun you shoot a 1/2" group then change something and it shoots a 3/4" group and shouldnt have then you wonder if cartridge design or stock tension did it. Its fun shooting but it seems to me like you really want to learn to shoot BR style- im just saying its lots easier to learn with a smooth worn out BR rig than the very best hunting rifle. Again- just my opinion take it as you may!!
 
Start saving for a good used BR gun. Youll be surprised how much more you can learn when the gun is predictable. When you can change neck tension and actually QUOTE]

Dusty, saving for a BR setup is just what I'm doing (funny you said it) I love the Rem700 and enjoy shooting it but my quest is sub-moa @ 600 yard and out......
and at 58 years old I have the time and money (little money as my wife says) to hopefully make that happen

again thanks

Bill
 
Getting A BR Rifle Is Like The Sun Coming Out

I don't know if I agree with what you're saying about weighing powder...but I agree here. Not only that, but if the barrel is a hummer, it's like you're in the sunshine and everybody else is in the rain.

I suppose I'll agree on weighing powder since Hman mentioned 600yds...but it's done begrudgingly.
 
I don't know if I agree with what you're saying about weighing powder...but I agree here. Not only that, but if the barrel is a hummer, it's like you're in the sunshine and everybody else is in the rain.

I suppose I'll agree on weighing powder since Hman mentioned 600yds...but it's done begrudgingly.

LOL!

I too have rifles where you can scoop the case into the powder can, shake it down to fit a bullet and shoot bugholes.


At 100yds



al
 
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