Cocking piece sear angle

A

agb3542

Guest
I have built a fixture to grind the sear engagement angle on a Rem 700 cocking piece. The best I can figure is 30deg. Anyone have a better figure?
 
That's so much better than eye balling it... if you are close that will be good enough I am sure.

I sometimes make the sear steeper and have found it lightens the pull some what... it pushes down with a little less force I guess.

Lets see a picture of your jig so we can copy it... :D
 
Is that piece through-hardened? I think a lot of the smaller pieces on Rems are gas carbuized and have a thin, hard case. I don't see why it would need to be med or high C steel, low C with a case would probably be adequate.
 
Dennis
Here are some pictures. Nothing fancy.

I would do two other things:
1. Drill a hole at the end of the slit and cut it with a slitting saw, like I originally planned before I got in a hurry.
2. Set up a stop so I don't have to find it with the wheel or a height gage after a tryout.
I also got tired of eyeballing it and this has worked for me.

Alex
in Michigan
 

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Any grinding you do reduces the amount of firing pin fall. I'm not sure making the angle different is worth the trade.
 
Alex,
A 29 degree angle is a closer match to an OEM Remington firing pin striker.

Are you grinding the strikers to facilitate proper firing pin to sear "Hand Off" timing??
Makes for very consistent trigger pull weight.

100% of Remington's require .040"-.070" material removal for proper firing pin hand off timing depending on model & year of manufacture.

Another concern is the step in picture #2 left from the original surface location as it will hang up/drag on the sear.
Lock time will suffer.

The compound angle/radius of the OEM striker is a concern also,compared to your flat ground angle surface.
To decrease friction between sear/striker.

A vertical fixture to locate the striker on the aft end is my choice, while dressing the grinding wheel to 29 degrees will eliminated the preverbial step that you are currently encountering.

Jay,
The OEM Remington strikers are through hardened,not cased/carburized.

4mesh,
Reducing firing pin "FALL" reduces lock time.
Reducing OEM Remington firing pin weight by 1/3 works wonders also.

I have numerous Rem 40X/700/Seven match/hunting rifles that have been modified to correctly time bolts/handles/firing pin timing that have been working with out a hitch for 20+ years in temperatures from +90 to -65 degrees ambient.
I won't have it any other way!!!
 
Dan,

I'm not much of a believer in lock time meaning anything.

As for 100% of Remingtons having that "out of time" issue, it's because they designed them that way. That isn't some inadvertant flaw they have been 50 years forgetting to fix. The sears make contact before the lugs are ridden up the ramp for a reason. That is what makes the firing pin fall enough to fire consistantly.

You may have modified all your actions to eliminate that handoff issue, but, the day will come that you will regret doing it. BTDT.

Just curious, could you please check the fall on one of your rifles. Measure the shroud to sear distance with it cocked, then how far in it goes when it is fired. I'd be interested to know that number.
 
So I just built one up a few weeks ago.......JB weld and a hunk of feeler gauge.

It hands off slicker than _____ and has a longer fall, AND a better angle, so THERE!

50-75rds and it's still there.


LOL


al
 
Dans40X
"Are you grinding the strikers to facilitate proper firing pin to sear "Hand Off" timing??
Makes for very consistent trigger pull weight."


Yes I am. Got tired of resetting the CP in a vise. Thought about the form wheel but didn't want to keep changing wheels as I don't dedicate this machine to sears. Have been cutting back enough to eliminate the step. The CP in the picture is junk that I just threw in for the photo. Good idea though and may change to that in the future. Will reset to 29deg.
Definitely appreciate the kind words.
Thanks.
Alex
 
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