I'd like a recommendation on cleaning solvents. I've got some Montana Extreme that I bought some time ago but the ammonia content scares me a bit. I used to use a mix of 1/2 Kroil and 1/2 Shooters Choice but have none of either at the moment. I have stainless and chrome moly barrels. Thanks
Cleaning Solvents
- Thread starter gilream
- Start date
B
Big Al
Guest
http://www.cleenboreusa.com/kg/kg-12testresults.asp
Read the test and make up your own mind, always the best way I know to be happy with what you decide.
Read the test and make up your own mind, always the best way I know to be happy with what you decide.
Geronimo Jim
New member
How come I haven't heard of this stuff?
Gilream ?
Hoppe's for general cleaning(parts,exterior surfaces,rimfire bores,shot guns, etc)Butch's for centerfire barrels where copper may be an issue. Shooters choice is good as well but dosn't quite have the copper solvent of butch's. If you have a custom barrel that dosn't copper( none of mine do) than Shooter's with a touch( about 7 to 1) of Kroil does a nice job,but J.B. is part of this program. The reason for the Shooter's is cause it's available in gallons(butch's is not) thus making it a lot cheaper .I have never tried the home brew thing( ed's red) but imagine that it is is an economy driven solvent as well. Perhaps some home brew guys will chime in with an aproximate cost per gallon of their stuff.
Mark Twain may have said this if he was alive today: "You know you have a shooting problem,if your buying solvent by the gallon and cleaning patches by the thousand".
Joel
Hoppe's for general cleaning(parts,exterior surfaces,rimfire bores,shot guns, etc)Butch's for centerfire barrels where copper may be an issue. Shooters choice is good as well but dosn't quite have the copper solvent of butch's. If you have a custom barrel that dosn't copper( none of mine do) than Shooter's with a touch( about 7 to 1) of Kroil does a nice job,but J.B. is part of this program. The reason for the Shooter's is cause it's available in gallons(butch's is not) thus making it a lot cheaper .I have never tried the home brew thing( ed's red) but imagine that it is is an economy driven solvent as well. Perhaps some home brew guys will chime in with an aproximate cost per gallon of their stuff.
Mark Twain may have said this if he was alive today: "You know you have a shooting problem,if your buying solvent by the gallon and cleaning patches by the thousand".
Joel
R
realm-aw
Guest
Elite Hoppe's
Try Hoppe's ELITE carbon cutter. It compares well with Slip 2000, IMHO. You can find it a wmart. It won't touch copper but it is excelllent on carbon. I had a carbon problem on my Colt Python cylinder that none of my several popular solvents would remove. Then I used the ELITE and it made me wonder about the carbon in my rifles. It is labled: Hoppes Elite Gun Cleaner. It is water based and does not smell, used with other H2O based cleaners (like Bore Tech copper remover) it will keep your room-mates happier.
Try Hoppe's ELITE carbon cutter. It compares well with Slip 2000, IMHO. You can find it a wmart. It won't touch copper but it is excelllent on carbon. I had a carbon problem on my Colt Python cylinder that none of my several popular solvents would remove. Then I used the ELITE and it made me wonder about the carbon in my rifles. It is labled: Hoppes Elite Gun Cleaner. It is water based and does not smell, used with other H2O based cleaners (like Bore Tech copper remover) it will keep your room-mates happier.
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Boyd Allen
Active member
If I am cleaning a lapped barrel, that has a moderate number of rounds on it since last cleaning, and it was fired with a relatively high pressure load of a clean burning powder, I use Butch's, patches, and a bronze brush, with a top quality bore guide, being careful about how I use the rod. If I have more rounds on a barrel, and/or the powder is dirtier, and I am cleaning at home and have time, I use Wipe Out bore cleaning foam, at least two applications, letting the second sit overnight, and then dry and brush a few strokes with Butch's, and patch dry. If it is not a stainless bore, I lightly oil the bore. Cleaning non-lapped barrels is a whole other subject. Roughter barrels are harder to clean unless you use the foam. Once in a while, with dirtier powders, i use an abrasive like Iosso, or JB, but not every time.
A
abintx
Guest
gilream ...
I've tried all kinds and finally settled on these three: Butch's Bore Shine, Sweets 7.62 and JB Bore Cleaning Compound. Here's where I got my lead:http://benchrest.netfirms.com/Barrel Break-In.htm and then went with straight Butch's instead of Speedy's concoction to keep it simple.
I asked Arnold Jewel one day if there was much to be concerned about with high ammonia based solvents like Sweets. He told me that he once did a long-term experiment with Sweets where he poured it in a piece of stainless steel barrel and left it there for a "year." When he finally looked at it he said there was no difference then when he first filled it. I guess there's something to be said for good stainless steel barrels.
I've tried all kinds and finally settled on these three: Butch's Bore Shine, Sweets 7.62 and JB Bore Cleaning Compound. Here's where I got my lead:http://benchrest.netfirms.com/Barrel Break-In.htm and then went with straight Butch's instead of Speedy's concoction to keep it simple.
I asked Arnold Jewel one day if there was much to be concerned about with high ammonia based solvents like Sweets. He told me that he once did a long-term experiment with Sweets where he poured it in a piece of stainless steel barrel and left it there for a "year." When he finally looked at it he said there was no difference then when he first filled it. I guess there's something to be said for good stainless steel barrels.
Hovis,
Please,what's your recipe? I would like to try it,$70 a gallon is my kind of number.
Joel
S
SDhunter
Guest
great CLP
This stuff works great, saw an article on shootingtimes.com. The website is
http://www.centerfirecs.com
This stuff works great, saw an article on shootingtimes.com. The website is
http://www.centerfirecs.com
SGJennings
New member
I use CarbOut, PatchOut and the PatchOut Accelerator. I'm experimenting with KG-1 for carbon.
The PatchOut does a great job on the copper.
The PatchOut does a great job on the copper.
brian roberts
New member
I use MPro7 cleaner and oil for................
right now. The oil seems "wetter" and really does a good job of lubrication, so much so that many have commented on its ability to "get under" fouling, and keep junk from sticking later. Some of the BP shooters I know are trying it, and they tell me they like it because it cuts through their fouling probs. As I try other things, I'll have more of a baseline on which to make a better decision. I've been using this for about four years now, and have no complaints, but I try lots of things. The oil does leave behind a deposit, which I like for protection. I don't know about Hoppe's Elite, but I do know that regular Hoppe's would get into areas and congeal into a gummy deposit. I never used it for a preservative or oil because it says on the bottle, "Solvent".
right now. The oil seems "wetter" and really does a good job of lubrication, so much so that many have commented on its ability to "get under" fouling, and keep junk from sticking later.
Some of the BP shooters I know are trying it, and they tell me they like it because it cuts through their fouling probs. As I try other things, I'll have more of a baseline on which to make a better decision. I've been using this for about four years now, and have no complaints, but I try lots of things. The oil does leave behind a deposit, which I like for protection. I don't know about Hoppe's Elite, but I do know that regular Hoppe's would get into areas and congeal into a gummy deposit. I never used it for a preservative or oil because it says on the bottle, "Solvent".
M
Montana Pete
Guest
In recent years I have just used two -- mostly Hoppe's No. 9 but sometimes a similar solvent from Outer's. I've been satisfied with both.
Generally, I do not expect the solvents to get more than the carbon residue.
For more persistent sorts of fouling I use copper solvent and a brass brush.
Generally, I do not expect the solvents to get more than the carbon residue.
For more persistent sorts of fouling I use copper solvent and a brass brush.
SGJennings
New member
Whatever you use, make sure the breech is uphill and don't let any of it get down into your trigger.
O
Old Gunner
Guest
Balistol is a good cleaner, but most of all its safe as you can get for skin contact and wood finishes.
The translation of the German label on the first can of this I got said it was used to clean restuarant meat cutting machinery and was a good field wound cleaner and disinfectant for hunting dogs and horses.
Its recommended for cleaning leather and wood. I've used it to clean leather gloves that I might have otherwise thrown away due to contamination.
One thing I like is that if left in the bore it not only protects but never stops working on hidden deposits missed earlier. Leave it in for a few weeks and run a patch through and any residue missed the first time comes out.
For Black Powder fouling it can be mixed with water to form an emulsion, a good idea when corrosive primers are used since water itself works to dissolve salts.
I've noticed that when theres deep rust on the exterior of an old gun the balistol sinks in and whatever rust doesn't come out of fizzures or pitts turns black to blend in with the finish.
I've taken to using Gunslick foam first then following up with Balistol.
The translation of the German label on the first can of this I got said it was used to clean restuarant meat cutting machinery and was a good field wound cleaner and disinfectant for hunting dogs and horses.
Its recommended for cleaning leather and wood. I've used it to clean leather gloves that I might have otherwise thrown away due to contamination.
One thing I like is that if left in the bore it not only protects but never stops working on hidden deposits missed earlier. Leave it in for a few weeks and run a patch through and any residue missed the first time comes out.
For Black Powder fouling it can be mixed with water to form an emulsion, a good idea when corrosive primers are used since water itself works to dissolve salts.
I've noticed that when theres deep rust on the exterior of an old gun the balistol sinks in and whatever rust doesn't come out of fizzures or pitts turns black to blend in with the finish.
I've taken to using Gunslick foam first then following up with Balistol.