O
oneflyer
Guest
An action made with Chrime moly. Heard that stainless barrels will gall to the action almost to the point of welding themselves together. Any truth or another urban myth?
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Big Al
Guest
I can give you and qualified "MAYBE". I have never had this happen, but I've not seen it all yet.
D
Don
Guest
Myth!
MColeman
Club Coordinator
It's metals that are the same that tend to gall the worst. Stainless on stainless in particular. Never screw a stainless barrel into a stainless receiver without some good grease on the threads.
I was chambering a barrel for a Grizzly (stainless) action once and was going to try the action to see if the threads were OK. It started on for a few threads and then locked up! I was not putting any pressure on it when trying the thread fit other than just screwing the action onto the barrel. I ended up cutting the barrel off just in front of the receiver then chucking the receiver in the lathe and indicating it in. I then bored out the barrel stub until I just brushed the tops of the threads in the receiver then picked out the remaining threads out of the receiver. Cured my constipation in a hurry!
I was chambering a barrel for a Grizzly (stainless) action once and was going to try the action to see if the threads were OK. It started on for a few threads and then locked up! I was not putting any pressure on it when trying the thread fit other than just screwing the action onto the barrel. I ended up cutting the barrel off just in front of the receiver then chucking the receiver in the lathe and indicating it in. I then bored out the barrel stub until I just brushed the tops of the threads in the receiver then picked out the remaining threads out of the receiver. Cured my constipation in a hurry!
Oneflyer, that's completely beZACKwards.... As Mickey said, it's similar metals like SS to SS that are prone to galling. Nesika makes their action and bolt of dissimilar metals for this reason.
al
O
oneflyer
Guest
Thanks
Puts my weak mind at ease.
Puts my weak mind at ease.
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Donald
Guest
Regardless of the metals of the receiver and barrel, always use a good antiseize grease. I use the one that has a bit of copper dust in it. Never a problem. Even using a light oil is asking for problems.
J
Jay Idaho
Guest
I've been lucky.....
never had an ss barrel sieze in an ss receiver, I use Molykote "G" paste from Dow on the threads. A friend did have one sieze when he was removing a custom barrel from a stainless AMT receiver. I did exactly as Mickey did, cut the barrel off and bored until I had a "heli-coil" of thread remaining.
In a prior life, I worked on machines that assembled permanent marker pens, real nasty ink. All of our fittings were stainless and they were not fun. If a mechanic assembled fittings without adequate teflon tape on the male threads we often saw the fittings sieze.
I think that CrMo against SS is not as apt to sieze but a good anti-sieze is always wise on threads.
never had an ss barrel sieze in an ss receiver, I use Molykote "G" paste from Dow on the threads. A friend did have one sieze when he was removing a custom barrel from a stainless AMT receiver. I did exactly as Mickey did, cut the barrel off and bored until I had a "heli-coil" of thread remaining.
In a prior life, I worked on machines that assembled permanent marker pens, real nasty ink. All of our fittings were stainless and they were not fun. If a mechanic assembled fittings without adequate teflon tape on the male threads we often saw the fittings sieze.
I think that CrMo against SS is not as apt to sieze but a good anti-sieze is always wise on threads.
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NesikaChad
Guest
Surface finish and high shear lubes.
If your threads look like they were single pointed with a beaver tooth then your probably going to experience some metal transfer.
If you use a poor quality lube on the threads the same is likely.
Bright shiny threads combined with a liberal dose of anti seize mitigates this problem to the point of it being pretty rare.
One last thing. Go a little conservative on your major diameter on the barrel tennon. A Nesika uses a 1 1/16X18 pitch thread. The diameters I ran on everything while working there was 1.055" I made up the difference in the pitch diameter and it kept the peaks of the threads broad and this reduced the chance of a thread getting a bite down in the root of the receiver.
Going this route worked well.
Good luck.
C
If your threads look like they were single pointed with a beaver tooth then your probably going to experience some metal transfer.
If you use a poor quality lube on the threads the same is likely.
Bright shiny threads combined with a liberal dose of anti seize mitigates this problem to the point of it being pretty rare.
One last thing. Go a little conservative on your major diameter on the barrel tennon. A Nesika uses a 1 1/16X18 pitch thread. The diameters I ran on everything while working there was 1.055" I made up the difference in the pitch diameter and it kept the peaks of the threads broad and this reduced the chance of a thread getting a bite down in the root of the receiver.
Going this route worked well.
Good luck.
C
Z
zomgwtfhaxxors
Guest
As for copper antiseize, I'll be damned if I can ever find the stuff, and on the rare occasion that I do, it's ludicrously expensive by nature of copper's value nowadays. Aluminum antiseize works just fine in my book, and is readily available and cheap (for us starving college students). Also, did you undercut the threads on the barrel tenon/relieve the first couple of threads on the receiver? I find that generally helps a great deal.
Somebody's giving you the runaround Zomgwtf, copper based anti-seize by Loctite or Never-seez is their base product....... the cheapest stuff on the rack. And the price of copper certainly wouldn't seem to be a price driver for something like this. Maybe try a pipe store instead of an auto store or something? I guess maybe I get spoiled though, living in the Vanc/Portland area with everything readily available. Is this stuff hard to get elsewhere?
Good call on the undercut.
al
M.D.Spencer
New member
Beaver teeth
S
slugger
Guest
I just use Bostik never-seize on everything. A $10 can has lasted me better than 15 years so far! The brush has broken off the lid and I should solder it back on but other than that, it's great stuff!
It works well for chokes tubes too!
It works well for chokes tubes too!
O
Old Gunner
Guest
According to Hatcher galling or at least excessive friction was a problem of the M1917 bolts and receivers due to the high Nickel content of the alloy used.
When Stainless Steel 1911 style handguns first became popular some brands galled slides and frame rails. This was cured by using different alloys, both were stainless steels but of differing surface grain (crystaline stucture ?)
When Stainless Steel 1911 style handguns first became popular some brands galled slides and frame rails. This was cured by using different alloys, both were stainless steels but of differing surface grain (crystaline stucture ?)