cases sticking in savage 12vlp

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Im havong trouble ejecting some of my cases in a new savage 10 pounder.. I will do not know what is going on but my guess is a rough chamber.. I can put a shot case in the chamber and it will stick again.. some stick, some dont, using medium to top end of pressure loads.. I blackened a case, and to my surprise nothing was hitting on the mouth, neck or angled part of the case.. there was gauling on the case barrel front and back, some probably from ejecting, some from making it stick im assuming.. I cant see much in there with a flashlight.. the primers are sticking out after fired which is probably a factor with norma brass after reading about it here.. they are wlr primers and slightly bulged out.. Again with not too high of pressure loads in my way of looking at it.. I kneck size only with zero error loader.. the first blown out case was a new nossler case, and medium hot load, and it was stuck in there pretty good.. Im either getting better at pulling them out, or they are sticking slightly less at this time.. Im afraid if i have a smith smooth it out it will change the neck diameter of the chamber which is great or so it seams from the groups at this time. I could steel wool it myself, but im fearful of getting steel fragments in the bore.. thanks for your help , dave.
 
Only neck sizing is not a good plan. That is your problem. There are several ways to get it done, but bottom line, the body of the case needs sizing and the shoulder bumped back about a thousandth from a tight fired case. What caliber?
 
From all you say, including your loose primer pockets, it sounds like loads are too hot.
 
nosler

states in their catalog that their brass is thicker than other brands. they recommend starting with a MINIMUM listed charge in the reloading manuals and work up. i am surprised you did not read that on the box before opening. the boxes i purchased from nosler had that warning on the box for all to read.

you are experiencing too high pressures!! measure the web area of the brass with an accurate caliper. i believe you will find it is expanded way past the normal. throw away all the brass that is oversized from sticking.

have a gunsmith check the locking lugs on the bolt and the reciever for over stress cracking or gauling.

you are one lucky individual the savage action is strong otherwise you would be wearing the bolt in your head.

usually flattened primers are the first signs of over pressure. when that happens lower the charge to where the edges of the primer is still rounded. a sticky bolt is a sign of eminent doom, be alarmed. stop like NOW and evaluate. do not keep shooting till your rifle heat welds itself shut!!

your savage probably had a tight chamber but your handloads are trying to loosen it up alot. hope you are alarmed as a sticky bolt is a sign of a seriously dangerous situation.
 
Nosler experience.

Fireball Fred is right on.

I had a load I'd been shooting in my .22-250 LRPV in Winchester brass. It was boosting 75g bullets to 3,350 fps and worked fine. I won two matches with it. I was shooting cases 6 or 7 times, primer pockets still good, but I was getting some thinning above the base of the case. Easy extraction, primers flush with the base of the case but not flattened. Tiny little groups, all the symptoms of a good load.

The Winchester brass was getting on towards end of life so I bought myself some new Nosler brass.

I fired one round of that load in Nosler brass, picked up my stuff, went home and pulled the bullets. The brass stuck and had to be knocked out with a cleaning rod. The primer fell out of the pocket when the bolt couldn't pull the brass, brass was scrubbed by the bolt because it wouldn't rotate after firing.

I was lucky. I should have measured the water grain capacity of that brass. When I did, I found it is noticably less than Winchester and, according to QuickLoad, results in case pressures that are several thousand psi higher than winchester brass.

I went through the work up again, found a load that worked (which happened to be at a slightly lower muzzle velocity) and i was back in business.

Brass won't stick to the point of needing to be knocked out and primers won't bulge or fall out unless the pressure is too high.

I'd highly recommend going to the minimum charge and working back up when transitioning from anything else to Nosler brass.

Fitch
 
frwillia said:
Fireball Fred is right on.

I had a load I'd been shooting in my .22-250 LRPV in Winchester brass. It was boosting 75g bullets to 3,350 fps and worked fine. I won two matches with it. I was shooting cases 6 or 7 times, primer pockets still good, but I was getting some thinning above the base of the case. Easy extraction, primers flush with the base of the case but not flattened. Tiny little groups, all the symptoms of a good load.

The Winchester brass was getting on towards end of life so I bought myself some new Nosler brass.

I fired one round of that load in Nosler brass, picked up my stuff, went home and pulled the bullets. The brass stuck and had to be knocked out with a cleaning rod. The primer fell out of the pocket when the bolt couldn't pull the brass, brass was scrubbed by the bolt because it wouldn't rotate after firing.

I was lucky. I should have measured the water grain capacity of that brass. When I did, I found it is noticably less than Winchester and, according to QuickLoad, results in case pressures that are several thousand psi higher than winchester brass.

I went through the work up again, found a load that worked (which happened to be at a slightly lower muzzle velocity) and i was back in business.

Brass won't stick to the point of needing to be knocked out and primers won't bulge or fall out unless the pressure is too high.

I'd highly recommend going to the minimum charge and working back up when transitioning from anything else to Nosler brass.

Fitch
Click to expand...
this should be a good lesson to you....change any part of athe components in a load....start over and work up.....lots of powder, lots of primers, bullet manufacturer, brass lot or manufacturer, new bbl..new enviroment.
all require a new look at the original data.
mike in co
 
Glad i asked.. nowhere inside or outside the box is the brass marked that it is any way prossible that there could be high pressure loads becouse of case capacity if I stay within the nosler load limit listed in thier own book using thier own brass.. .. Im using nosler brass, nosler loads nostler bullets and nostler cases.. and staying within thier limits.. I read here or elsewhere that loose pockets were typical of nossler brass.. I measured the base of the case and it looks like its .002 to .003 over the brass ive not fired, i think this is the web you speak of? and probably showing the problem with the slightly bulged out primers.. I certainly hope i havnt damaged the rifle.. Ill get some winchester brass and start over.. Im pretty unhappy with nosler at this time, even tho it is thru my own ignorance.. Its interesting that there are those on the internet that simply state to use such and such a load period!, That is hotter than the ones im using.. not drawing attention to such variables as we speak.., I understand now that it is my own fault becouse reloading requires that i know the problems that we are speaking of.. I ignored the bulged primers becouse i thought it was a burr in the chamber.. Silly and dangerous indeed! thanks..dave
 
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Dave

Get a full length sizing die(a must) and take one piece of brass and start with a low powder charge, shoot it, increase the loads as you go until you see pressure signs. These could be puckered primer around the firing pin hole, flattened primer( square corners), an ejector pin mark on the back of the case, hard bolt lift. Have your bullet touching the lands. This gives you the worst case scenario for pressure. Take that one case and since your in Montana I'm going to assume you can shoot out the back door, shoot it over and over until you see pressure signs and it won't hold a primer. You'll know exactly where the worst case, top end load is and how long the brass will last. Throw that one piece of brass away. You can do this with a change in bullet weight or a change in powder and not get into to much trouble. Pretty soon you'll learned to read pressure signs without having to destroy a case. That's a skill you can apply to any cartridge.

Dave
 
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