J
j mckinnie
Guest
how many layers of cloth is the norm between each laminated wood section.I have been thinking 2 on the main beam & 1 on the rest,maybe 2 on the horizontal.Thanks for any input Jim
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H
henrya
Guest
It depends on the material you use and how stiff you want it to be. The very stiffest for weight would likely be table-made plate. If you're concerned with weight keep in mind that carbon and resin are very heavy compared to almost any normal stock wood. Do you want extreme stiffness? Light weight? What kind of wood are you using?
J
j mckinnie
Guest
Hi Henry
I'm using western red cedar & the fiber looks like what is wrapped on the Scoville stocks,as in weave size it measures about .010 with verniers.I'm doing the 3x3" beams topped with triangles.I would like to achieve stiffness & vibration dampening. Jim
I'm using western red cedar & the fiber looks like what is wrapped on the Scoville stocks,as in weave size it measures about .010 with verniers.I'm doing the 3x3" beams topped with triangles.I would like to achieve stiffness & vibration dampening. Jim
H
henrya
Guest
I'd use one layer. I'm assuming you're not going to wrap and then vacuum bag the exterior and are only using the carbon fabric between the wood layers. Think about how each layer is acting to add its contribution to stiffness. If its not adding stiffness, don't use it.
I'm not an engineer, so take what I write with that in mind. Here are a couple of ways the carbon can add to stiffness. There are more shapes to deal with but they're harder to "see" or understand intuitively.
One is like a stress skin panel - think about a hollow core door in a house (I assume they have those in Australia) - its the skin that resists elongation that makes the door stiff. The stuff inside (sometimes its cardboard or paper core) is more or less filler to space the skins apart. If you make a stock with stacked up layers of wood and carbon that's mostly what you're doing, a multi layer stress skin. It'll be plenty stiff but if you use too many layers of carbon it will also be heavy. The distance between the skins is important - the greater the distance the stiffer the panel. A two inch thick panel is stiffer than a one inch thick panel using the same skins in both.
Another way you can use carbon to stiffen the stock is to use it on edge or turned vertically. This might be more easily imagined if you've ever reinforced floor joists with metal plate. A relatively thin plate sandwiched between joists and bolted up solid can be incredibly stiff. The wood keeps the metal from "snaking" and the whole thing together can bear quite a load.
Its easy to get more stiffness than needed if weight is not a concern. You are adding weight and cost that you don't have to have. Keep in mind that the butt and very front end of forearm are going to be relatively thick and don't benefit from adding heavy stiffening material. Its the part around the action that will benefit the most from adding stiffness.
I'm not an engineer, so take what I write with that in mind. Here are a couple of ways the carbon can add to stiffness. There are more shapes to deal with but they're harder to "see" or understand intuitively.
One is like a stress skin panel - think about a hollow core door in a house (I assume they have those in Australia) - its the skin that resists elongation that makes the door stiff. The stuff inside (sometimes its cardboard or paper core) is more or less filler to space the skins apart. If you make a stock with stacked up layers of wood and carbon that's mostly what you're doing, a multi layer stress skin. It'll be plenty stiff but if you use too many layers of carbon it will also be heavy. The distance between the skins is important - the greater the distance the stiffer the panel. A two inch thick panel is stiffer than a one inch thick panel using the same skins in both.
Another way you can use carbon to stiffen the stock is to use it on edge or turned vertically. This might be more easily imagined if you've ever reinforced floor joists with metal plate. A relatively thin plate sandwiched between joists and bolted up solid can be incredibly stiff. The wood keeps the metal from "snaking" and the whole thing together can bear quite a load.
Its easy to get more stiffness than needed if weight is not a concern. You are adding weight and cost that you don't have to have. Keep in mind that the butt and very front end of forearm are going to be relatively thick and don't benefit from adding heavy stiffening material. Its the part around the action that will benefit the most from adding stiffness.