Calling Al Nyhus
- Thread starter Richard
- Start date
Boyd Allen
Active member
You need to put the call out for Alinwa. He is the concrete contractor. Even though I am not in that field, if you are speaking of a shooting bench, I would caution you against doing anything to make it slick, as that can lead to rear bag traction issues.
Recently, because I was working with the as planed finish of a wood shooting bench top, constructed of dimension lumber, I started to see unexplained "tracking" problems. It turned out that the bag was sliding slightly on the bench during recoil, not enough to easily spot, but just a little. If this is happening while the bullet is in the barrel, it can have you chasing your tail, looking for answers. I found mine, coarse sanding screen under the rear bag stopped all movement. I wonder how many shooters may be having this issue and not know it. Very small movements are hard to spot, and may only be discovered by comparison.
Recently, because I was working with the as planed finish of a wood shooting bench top, constructed of dimension lumber, I started to see unexplained "tracking" problems. It turned out that the bag was sliding slightly on the bench during recoil, not enough to easily spot, but just a little. If this is happening while the bullet is in the barrel, it can have you chasing your tail, looking for answers. I found mine, coarse sanding screen under the rear bag stopped all movement. I wonder how many shooters may be having this issue and not know it. Very small movements are hard to spot, and may only be discovered by comparison.
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OK...... here are some thoughts.
Epoxy doesn't build well. It's primarily used as a tough color coat or as a bonding agent for another filler product like stones or fibers (fiberglas, carbon fiber)
Here's the way I'd attack old bench tops.
Clean them off really well using muriatic acid and pressure washer.
Fill and smooth off using a cementitious product. This will be a stout "polymer modified" concrete pre-mix like MG-Krete http://illianaenterprises.com/product-lines/mg-krete/ or Tamms Speed PM http://www.euclidchemical.com/fileshare/ProductFiles/msds/TR5100650PM_U.pdf or Rapid Set Cement-All http://rapidset.com/CementAll.asp or the like.... whatever's available in your area. You'll probably have to call your local redi-mix supplier to get the name of your local concrete accessories supplier cuz this stuff isn't available from Lowe's......
Now, you may be happy-happy..... if not NOW's the time to step over to epoxy for the color/texture. If you don't want the grey concrete look then you must stain, paint or otherwise coat the tops. Epoxy makes a good cover and offers a decent pallette..... We use epoxy products from Kemiko http://www.kemiko.com/index.php/industrial-products/epoxies.html Excellent Coatings http://excellentcoatings.com/ Excel Surfaces http://www.xcelsurfaces.com/ and others for this........ these will bond to the new, smooth surface and you can add textures if you want. We have a very fine "dredging sand" out here. "Sugar Sand" is found in some locales, "Mason's Sand" is generally too coarse and will cause rugburns, but there's really no need for texture in most cases.
Problem with epoxies is that they don't weather bestest of all...... so now we step over to the topcoat, generally a polyurethane. http://www.kemiko.com/media/pdf/kemiko_SS2400_tech_data082613.pdf Just like in rifle finishes polyurethanes have taken over the industry for weather-resistant topcoats.
Soooo, concrete material for patch/build/smooth. Epoxy for color/finish and polyurethane for durability.
Or, just get after it using a polymer modified concrete patching material and BE DONE
After it chips up again yrs away, do it again. A good pm concrete patching compound is more durable than the original concrete was.....
But IMO just epoxy will not give you a satisfactory result.
opinionby
al
Epoxy doesn't build well. It's primarily used as a tough color coat or as a bonding agent for another filler product like stones or fibers (fiberglas, carbon fiber)
Here's the way I'd attack old bench tops.
Clean them off really well using muriatic acid and pressure washer.
Fill and smooth off using a cementitious product. This will be a stout "polymer modified" concrete pre-mix like MG-Krete http://illianaenterprises.com/product-lines/mg-krete/ or Tamms Speed PM http://www.euclidchemical.com/fileshare/ProductFiles/msds/TR5100650PM_U.pdf or Rapid Set Cement-All http://rapidset.com/CementAll.asp or the like.... whatever's available in your area. You'll probably have to call your local redi-mix supplier to get the name of your local concrete accessories supplier cuz this stuff isn't available from Lowe's......
Now, you may be happy-happy..... if not NOW's the time to step over to epoxy for the color/texture. If you don't want the grey concrete look then you must stain, paint or otherwise coat the tops. Epoxy makes a good cover and offers a decent pallette..... We use epoxy products from Kemiko http://www.kemiko.com/index.php/industrial-products/epoxies.html Excellent Coatings http://excellentcoatings.com/ Excel Surfaces http://www.xcelsurfaces.com/ and others for this........ these will bond to the new, smooth surface and you can add textures if you want. We have a very fine "dredging sand" out here. "Sugar Sand" is found in some locales, "Mason's Sand" is generally too coarse and will cause rugburns, but there's really no need for texture in most cases.
Problem with epoxies is that they don't weather bestest of all...... so now we step over to the topcoat, generally a polyurethane. http://www.kemiko.com/media/pdf/kemiko_SS2400_tech_data082613.pdf Just like in rifle finishes polyurethanes have taken over the industry for weather-resistant topcoats.
Soooo, concrete material for patch/build/smooth. Epoxy for color/finish and polyurethane for durability.
Or, just get after it using a polymer modified concrete patching material and BE DONE
After it chips up again yrs away, do it again. A good pm concrete patching compound is more durable than the original concrete was.....But IMO just epoxy will not give you a satisfactory result.
opinionby
al
Additional info....
If you choose to use only the cementitious filler/topcoat then you finish it to the finished texture you like for grip.
If you use an epoxy you will generally mix something abrasive into it for gription and,
If you use a poly topcoat there's a product called SharkGrip http://www.hcconcrete.com/products/shark-grip-prep-products/Shark_Grip_Slip_Resistant_Additive/ that is wickidfrickingcool for non-slip. I haven't used it for benchtops but for walking surfaces out here in the rain it's awesome. It's teeny rubbery beads that you mix in the poly, it's invisible.
If you choose to use only the cementitious filler/topcoat then you finish it to the finished texture you like for grip.
If you use an epoxy you will generally mix something abrasive into it for gription and,
If you use a poly topcoat there's a product called SharkGrip http://www.hcconcrete.com/products/shark-grip-prep-products/Shark_Grip_Slip_Resistant_Additive/ that is wickidfrickingcool for non-slip. I haven't used it for benchtops but for walking surfaces out here in the rain it's awesome. It's teeny rubbery beads that you mix in the poly, it's invisible.