Cabinets for the Reloader's garage

T

TedH

Guest
Well I am getting ready to start building cabinets for the garage and I thought maybe some of you guys who had already outfitted your garages for reloading might have a few Ideas about what you put in that you liked or maybe what you put in that you didn't like.

I will use pocket hole construction to make the carcass out of 3/4 inch sanded plywood. I am not going to use pre-finished birch ply since I just can't justify the cost for the garage.

At my old house I made the top of the reloading bench out of 1/2 inch ply topped with pre-finished bamboo flooring. The flooring is really stiff and has a super hard finish. I just glued it down to the ply. I may do the same for this project.
Ted
 
Garage Cabinets

Nice cabinets can be made from 3/4" melamine if they're built properly..........this means capturing the backs and dadoeing the sides to receive the top and bottom. Adjustable shelves can be had by either using shelf standards and brackets, or drilling holes for the shelf pins. As for the top, I would use two layers of 3/4" plywood with a layer of 1/4" melamine applied to the top layer. Melamine will not hold-up as well as laminate, but it will still last a long time, and provides a surface that is easy to clean. If gun-oil, bolt grease, or case lube get on the top, it is easy to clean with lacquer thinner. Melamine is impervious to lacquer thinner.
While some folks do not like Melamine, the results speak for themselves. What you will have is an affordable cabinet, ease in cleaning, and interiors being bright enough to see inside without the aid of direct interior lighting. The raw edges can be banded with PVC tape in a matching color, and the pre-glued material can be applied with the wife's clothes iron, although she may get pissed that you used it!
What is nice to have is a very sturdy top that will not flex, and will allow you to bolt a press firmly to it.
 
Ingrng
I have not worked with melamine before. I guess it would save time and money by not having to finish it.

How well does it hold a screw? I do most of my cuts using a Track Saw. Would that be an issue?
Ted
 
Ted,
I have made several bench tops by gluing 3/4" oak or birch plywood over two layers of 3/4" MDF, with 3/4" hardwood edges. Not quite as nice or durable as a laminated hard maple top, but with some care should last a long time, and can be refinished several times before you wear through the top layer of veneer. The thin finish on melamine won't last long by comparison.

Cheers,
Keith
 
I used white masonite for the top of my reloading bench back in 1993 and it still looks great especially after

I clean it. It also makes it easy to see all the powder kernels that get spilled.

gt40
 
I know something about building cabinets so let me suggest that you stay away from melamine and MDF board or it's cousin, particle board for the case of your cabinet. Melamine is just a film of plastic that is put on top of a base material and it will scratch if not worked carefully and it cannot be repaired. MDF (medium density fiberboard) is very stable and will work well for the top when it is sealed but will not hold nails into it's grain very well. Stay away from particle board as it will swell from moisture over time.

I would suggest good 3/4" plywood for the case sides and shelves such as birch or maple because of smoothness with a 1/4 inch plywood back. I would use dado construction because it is strong and easy for me to do. You might prefer to put nailers under the shelves and that would be strong enough.

Personally, I would use a plastic laminate for the top such as Formica or Wilson Art because they are tough. A double layer of 3/4" maple or birch plywood with a good finish would work quite well.

I would suggest that you try to keep this project in your skill level or it will be a learning experience. On the other hand, you could build something that you would pride and use for many years.

Concho Bill
 
Go look at some of the woodworking project books/magazines at the bookstores. Cabinets are a pretty standard project & you'll find a pattern that meets your needs. Mine are from a revision of my kitchen, however.
Regards, Ron
 
Best advice I can give.............Don't make them too deep. Stuff tends to get lost "back there"................Two small doors rather than one big door so you aren't constantly knocking your head on an open door.........Use "euro-hinges" if you can. This way you can align the doors once everything is hung.

I sold a custom closet company last year where we designed high end garages (Man Caves) for clients................
 
Well..............from the replies of some of the other "experts" on here, I guess the opinions of a guy with 38 years in the business as a High-End Architectural Millwork and Furniture Fabricator don't amount to much!

First and foremost, there is nothing wrong with melamine board for cabinet interiors as long as proper machining methods are used (Dado construction) and there is not a lot of moisture present ( one should not leave his GARAGE cabinets outside during a rainstorm). Melamine-coated particle board is a durable material and is used in residential as well as commercial applications regularly, and is the accepted standard...if you doubt this, I suggest that you refer to the Architectural Woodwork Institute's Quality Standards manual. What the manual will detail is what is and is not allowed in the construction of cabinets and millwork....Economy Grade, Custom Grade, and Premium Grade. It will detail what kind of construction methods are acceptable in these three grades of construction. It will also outline where fasteners are and are not allowed, as well as outlining what type and quantity of material defects are allowed.

If you are using the cabinets for storing parts for crawler tractors rather than reloading supplies and its related operations that the original poster stated, then plywood is the better material. If you want something that is even stronger, solid lumber panels will serve you better, or you could simply build the cabinets out of welded plate steel, the thicker the better.

What the original poster asked was what kind of methods and materials would be acceptable for his intended use. Be aware that he also noted that he was on a budget and did not have the funds available to use plywood for the construction. The suggestion to use Melamine for the counter-top surface was suggested by me in an effort to reduce the cost. Melamine will never have the wear resistance that Plastic Laminate does, but I have had work-tops in my Den for 7 years now, and the only thing noteworthy regarding wear is that the most used areas are more polished now than the light texture that they exhibited when new. I spend 5 hours daily at my computer sliding my mouse and keyboard around and it has not worn through the surface yet. While it may not be the best choice for a countertop, it is very reasonably priced, and is easily replaced when worn beyond the user's wishes. The cost to replace the counters is very reasonable as well.

I hope I haven't pissed in any of the "experts" cornflakes, but I believe I gave good information based on the original poster's needs, wants, and funding.

G'Night now....have a nice evening.
 
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and gentlemen
here is a bit more. I too have spent time in an architectural wood working shop, ( not 38 years of it though.)
If in fact you are going to use plywood of any type, know the following. Although 3/4 " sounds like the "real deal", most do not know that the thickness in not NEARLY as important as the number of plies.
In other words, 3/4 " plywood with 5 plies...to me...is junk lumber. I have had 1/2 " ply, ( and still have a little left from the 70's) with 7 plies that strength wise... will make 5 ply 3/4 " a laughable matter.
Don't believe it ?
Try this. Take a piece of 3/4 " plywood ( 5 plies) cut it 1 foot wide x 8 '...and set a "horse" under each end of it . Now...put a concrete block in the center. Measure the distance to the floor UNDER THE DEFLECTION.
Now do the same thing with a piece of 3/4 " with 7 or 9 plies ! again...1 foot wide by
8 ' long.
So much for the all the hoopla about "3/4" ply.
Incidently...you won't find what I am refering to at Menards or home depot !
 
Here is something else;
Having worked with perhaps every type of material we have at our disposal, If it were me, I would use a I/8 " TEMPERED MASONITE fastened to what ever material you use for the top. It is extremely hard and durable. The magic word here is TEMPERED fellas.
You will find it in a quality custom cabinet shop. It won't be nice and white lookin...but it will be there for a very long time .
 
I run a cabinet shop for a living and have for quite a few years.
Melamine is usually either particle board or MDF, which can be made into decent cabinets. Providing they will not take much wear tear or abuse. And as we mentioned must be kept in a dry environment.
Me personally I use the 3/4 12 ply birch.
I dont know about there but here I only pay about 5 bucks a sheet more for the prefinished and the uv finish seems impervious to just about anything we have put on it.
To each his own.
 
Well
I want to thank everybody for pitching in there ideas and experience.
I was thinking of putting some pull out shelves in one of the base cabinets. Is this a difficult task or feasible?

Ted
 
Ted;
Feasible ? Of course. The proper hardware is available. I advise you to get that from a custom cabinet shop, And I dont mean a shop that sells prefinished cabinets only. I mean a shop that builds them from the ground up with all of the neccesary machinery, ( I don't mean hand tools either)
Be somewhat patient. Plan it step by step . Plenty of help out there if you know where to go.
Find yourself a custom cabinet shop for questions on hardware. Seek advice from those that have made woodworking their livelihood....
 
I have been in the construction business for ove 45 years and here is how I did mine .

Went to the local Habitat for Humanity and bought a whole kitchen full of used cabinets ( 100 bucks ) .
Also used a 3/0-6/8 soild core exterior door for the bench top. ( 10 bucks )

It looks nice and very functional not to mention cheap. I would have spent that much on hardware.
Also try craigslist you might have some one right down the road remodeling his kitchen.

Aloha Les
 
Les;
That is perhaps the BEST advice on this forum, and better than mine. Had it crossed my mind...I would have mentioned it. We have a "Habitat For Humanity" place here that I have been to, ( and my daughter is there often. You are correct. Everything is there for dirt cheap. You would be hard pressed not to find what you need . If not today, perhaps next week because things keep coming in.
Again....great idea, espescially for a guy looking to get by reasonably. The WOOD CORE door will be found there as well. Usually comes from a church or school and will have a birch or oak veneer on it.

Can I send you a "quart" of snow from Wisconsin ?
 
Francis are there any standards for the locks on those cabinets?
I am not a lock smith but I re-pin all of my own locks and cut the keys myself. And I have installed a few locks as well.
I don't plan on having an FFL but 10 years ago I didn't plan on being a BenchRest shooter either so it doesn't hurt to be prepared.

Once again thanks for the great advice.
How about special features? Such as special spaces for equipment.
 
1 Qt snow

Les;
That is perhaps the BEST advice on this forum, and better than mine. Had it crossed my mind...I would have mentioned it. We have a "Habitat For Humanity" place here that I have been to, ( and my daughter is there often. You are correct. Everything is there for dirt cheap. You would be hard pressed not to find what you need . If not today, perhaps next week because things keep coming in.
Again....great idea, espescially for a guy looking to get by reasonably. The WOOD CORE door will be found there as well. Usually comes from a church or school and will have a birch or oak veneer on it.

Can I send you a "quart" of snow from Wisconsin ?

brtter send it express mail:) aloha
 
Well
I want to thank everybody for pitching in there ideas and experience.
I was thinking of putting some pull out shelves in one of the base cabinets. Is this a difficult task or feasible?

Ted

Ted, Pull out shelves are a great idea.

Another thing, you cannot get enough drawers. And Ted, Build it your way and don't let us "experts" get in your way.

Concho Bill
58 years in construction and trying to slow down. Big Deal!!!
 
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