Building a 30-06

A

anachronism

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I'm in the process of accumulating parts for my next rifle. I've always wanted a heavy barreled 30-06, so now's the time. It's not going to be a competition rifle, so I'm using an air-gauged 1:10 Douglas barrel that I picked up at a gunshow, and it's going on a Savage 110 action. My biggest concern is the reamer. Unless I special order one, all I can find sre standard SAAMI 30-06s, I'd like something tighter, but I don't want to turn case necks. Does anyone have a suggestion where I can get a no-turn 30-06 match reamer on short notice? My gunsmith can turn & chamber the barrel next week, so I've got to get cracking.
 
There seems to be a fine line there, with reports of neck clearance problems with random cases/reamers. Reading the feedback from people that have purchased "match reamers" they have feeding problems, when they try to run brass through it that was not gauged/turned. I have an unused match .308 reamer from PTG, my 0-1" mic says i will have to turn almost all of my Lapua brass a few thousands, with my die/brass setup.

Some people here may disagree with me, but I have found no good reason to run a tight (er) neck on a rifle that you will not compete with.

The lowest hanging fruit, as I call it is chamber alignment. I'd cut a full size chamber if I were you, and look more at the technique your gunsmith will use to indicate the barrel in his lathe. Not to micromanage, but Gordy gritter's chambering video is very informative, in my opinion, especially to a less experience gunsmith or to an experience shooter that is not a gunsmith.

My expectations from a 30-06 in the aformentioned barrel/action and standard reamer is a rifle that will shoot a single ragged hole at 100 yards with good ammo. If it did not, I'd take the barrel back off, and check chamber to bore alignment, and if that was good, I'd throw the barrel in the garbage and get a different one.

Just my way of thinking.

Ben
 
What I have done on my reamers that are not intended for special chamberings is specify to the reamer manufacturer that I want the reamer to be minimum dimension SAAMI specs. JGS calls these their match grade reamers and others just grind what you want, but it minimizes the bulging case just forward of the solid web and generally just cleans things up. The other tip is chamber to minimum headspace as all reamers have taper in them unless the neck portion is ground for a fitted neck, so extra headspace will result in a sloppier chamber.
 
I decided to go with a standard reamer. I almost forgot that I have a lot of 30-06 military match brass that needs to be used, and I don't believe an extra tight chamber would be in my best interests. Thanks to everyone for their input.
 
anachronism said:
I decided to go with a standard reamer. I almost forgot that I have a lot of 30-06 military match brass that needs to be used, and I don't believe an extra tight chamber would be in my best interests. Thanks to everyone for their input.
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If you want accuracy sell the 06 brass, buy .308 Win. Lapua brass, build a no neck turn .308 Win. :D
 
It has to be 30-06. I've always wanted a heavy barreled 30-06. Since I'm left-handed, I had to make my own.
 
Do Not Rent a Reamer.....................call Dave Kiff at Pacific Tool & Gauge. Order a Live Pilot Reamer, the bushings he recommends for it and the reamer and a 30-06 Go Gauge, it'll be a wise investment. Have the reamer's free bore set for the bullets you plan to shoot and the neck ground to be a no turn, .340" should work but .343" may be a little better for a true no turn. I would still make just a cleanup pass on the brass though. Good luck
 
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