Bolt handle hex bolt torque on Savage 10fp .223

P

p5200

Member
I noticed when closing the bolt it felt like it bottomed out as it should but, when I pushed down a little harder it went down just a slight bit more. if I pushed forward on the bolt while closing, it bottomed out just fine . I got out a 1/4" allen wrench loosened the bolt handle retaining srcew worked it back and forth a few times then tightened it back as tight as I could by hand holding bolt handle. Now, it seems much harder to close the bolt now on an empty chamber then it did before but, the handle goes all the way down like it should now. The hex bolt was hard to un,tighten originally but, is it possible I may have over tightened it when I re,tightened? Thanks! :)
 
Savage Primary Extraction

The base of the bolt handle has a ramp surface that contacts the ramp surface on the rear baffle. This is your primary extraction. There is great importance in the relationship of these surfaces in order to get proper extraction. The screw in the back of the bolt should be tight and not loose.

There are several key areas on a Savage bolt for proper bolt timing. The fact that the bolt handle fits precisely on the back of the bolt body give one a good point of referrence to start from.

The relationship of the cocking piece pin and the cocking ramp on the bolt body is another important relationship.

Most Savages from the factory are over cocking.

Nat Lambeth
 
Take the bolt back apart and then reassemble it without the firing pin assy. You will need to use some sort of wire or something to keep the bolt head pin from sliding out of position. Now see how the bolt feels in the rec. If so, see if you can identify where it is binding.
 
p5200 said:
I noticed when closing the bolt it felt like it bottomed out as it should but, when I pushed down a little harder it went down just a slight bit more. if I pushed forward on the bolt while closing, it bottomed out just fine . I got out a 1/4" allen wrench loosened the bolt handle retaining srcew worked it back and forth a few times then tightened it back as tight as I could by hand holding bolt handle. Now, it seems much harder to close the bolt now on an empty chamber then it did before but, the handle goes all the way down like it should now. The hex bolt was hard to un,tighten originally but, is it possible I may have over tightened it when I re,tightened? Thanks! :)
Click to expand...

No. Make sure your scope base screws are trimmed to length. Often the rear screw of the front base is too long.
 
If it is just a few thousandths too long, the front action screw can interfere with the lower locking lug as it is being opened or closed. Generally this will show up just after a general tightening up session.
 
Thanks for all the advice it seems to be getting smoother and easier. the gun is still pretty new so I will keep the cam and bolt lugs lightly greased and I think it will loosen up some more. I plan to order a longer Tactical bolt and maybe that will help also. I did, have to substitute one of the base screws for a shorter one as it for sure, was a little too long. Thanks Again! :)
 
I love working on the Savages, the come apart so easy (usually). I also like the way bolt heads can be changed for different case head sizes.
 
Now if Savage would just make a ppc face bolt head.........:D

Donald
 
Savage timing

Rustystud said:
The base of the bolt handle has a ramp surface that contacts the ramp surface on the rear baffle. This is your primary extraction. There is great importance in the relationship of these surfaces in order to get proper extraction. The screw in the back of the bolt should be tight and not loose.

There are several key areas on a Savage bolt for proper bolt timing. The fact that the bolt handle fits precisely on the back of the bolt body give one a good point of referrence to start from.

The relationship of the cocking piece pin and the cocking ramp on the bolt body is another important relationship.

Most Savages from the factory are over cocking.

Nat Lambeth
Click to expand...

Could you explain more about timing the Savage bolt by the key areas?
 
Rustystud --

Putting 2 and 2 together from what you wrote, that probably what "timing" a Savage action means, is to properly adjust the interface between the bolt handle ramp surface/rear baffle ramp, and possible other areas. Right?

I assume this is better left to an expert.

However, can you explain what "over cocking" means?

I saw a tool that screwed into the receiver threads and had a pin of some sort for polishing the bolt face, where the rear of the cartridge goes. Is that sort of a thing what you use to square the bolt face with the receiver threads, and is that what is meant by "trueing" a Savage?

Thanks for educating me -- I always read your posts very carefully.

Gordon
 
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